Ugly Drum Smoker - Page 558

traderbbc · 08-01-2011, 05:13 PM

I hope I posted this right, I am new and read the entire thread. I just got my barrel and it just has the 3/4 pressure relief valve on the lid, no 2" bung. Looking for some advice here. Should I just drill 5 more evenly spaced 1/2 holes on the lid or should I do something else like step bit it out to 1" and add another 1" spaced farther apart and don't know how much it should be spaced. If you had the choice would you do the 6 holes and does that seem to make a difference? Also could not find 3 1/2 stainless steel bolts for the charcoal grate, hd and lowes crappy selection so I am gonna use the zinc ones and soak them in vinegar which if I read correctly will get rid of the zinc or at least make it safe enough to use.

BigBobBQ · 08-02-2011, 04:01 AM

I am having the same questions, from what I have come to understand the evenly spaced 1/2" holes in the lid might be the best way to go. it allows the heat and smoke to exit the top in a more uniform manner with even distribution, where I have heard that the single 2 inch bung hole exhaust forces air to exit in one location causing some sort of direct line draft from the intake to the exit and is prone to causing a hot spot under the exhaust and in some cases a large difference in the temperature from the center of the grate to the edge of the grate. I am going to use the evenly spaced holes in the top for my first build as per the instructions on NorCo's build. Maybe some of the more season uds pros can chime in and elaborate on their experience. I may be totally wrong in my thinking but for some reason it makes sense to me.

mike5150 · 08-02-2011, 04:25 AM

Why not Just use a big 2" or 3" hole saw? And black pipe. just my 2¢

Quote:

Originally Posted by traderbbc

I hope I posted this right, I am new and read the entire thread. I just got my barrel and it just has the 3/4 pressure relief valve on the lid, no 2" bung. Looking for some advice here. Should I just drill 5 more evenly spaced 1/2 holes on the lid or should I do something else like step bit it out to 1" and add another 1" spaced farther apart and don't know how much it should be spaced. If you had the choice would you do the 6 holes and does that seem to make a difference? Also could not find 3 1/2 stainless steel bolts for the charcoal grate, hd and lowes crappy selection so I am gonna use the zinc ones and soak them in vinegar which if I read correctly will get rid of the zinc or at least make it safe enough to use.

Sammy_Shuford · 08-02-2011, 04:42 AM

WWW.BoltDepot.com

Small orders of stanless hardware.

jcinadr · 08-02-2011, 08:40 AM

I really would not worry about the material on your grate bolts. You would be cremating your meat before they got hot enough to cause any problems. They will get coated in creosote anyway. You will never see them again if you put acorn nuts on them.

I prefer a smoke stack to prevent water from running into the it during a rain. Unlike a domed Weber lid - the entire lid of a barrel is lipped to collect water. That said, the flat lid will help keep your sauce warm.

Do care about what your nipples are made of - They will rust and make it impossible to remove the caps. Unless you are religious with oiling them - just use brass.

As for cleaning - use an ash pan. It is practically eliminates cleaning the bottom of the uds.

soapy_junk · 08-02-2011, 08:54 AM

picked up my drum last night.. unlined.. open top with locking ring.. 2 bung holes in lid.. plastic caps though.. so i will be pulling them.. the larger will be for my chimney..

going to home depot to pick up some parts.. planning on starting maybe this weekend.. will post pics

the plan is for a single cooking grate.. 1.5" vent w/ ball valve, expanded steel basket.. for now.. usign flat lid.. plans on using a webber dome eventually

soapy_junk · 08-02-2011, 09:12 AM

looking to pick up a accurate long stem thermometer to mount on my UDS.. any recomendations for a not to pricy one?

also.. considering getting a digital meat probe thermometer to get internal meat temps during cooking..

colonel00 · 08-02-2011, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soapy_junk

looking to pick up a accurate long stem thermometer to mount on my UDS.. any recomendations for a not to pricy one?

also.. considering getting a digital meat probe thermometer to get internal meat temps during cooking..

Grab a $5 turkey fryer thermo from Walmart. There are several different options as to creating a hole that will hold it. You will need for it to be removable so you can pull out your charcoal basket. Also, check it from time to time in boiling water and just keep track if it is off a bit.

1FUNVET · 08-02-2011, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigBobBQ

I am having the same questions, from what I have come to understand the evenly spaced 1/2" holes in the lid might be the best way to go. it allows the heat and smoke to exit the top in a more uniform manner with even distribution, where I have heard that the single 2 inch bung hole exhaust forces air to exit in one location causing some sort of direct line draft from the intake to the exit and is prone to causing a hot spot under the exhaust and in some cases a large difference in the temperature from the center of the grate to the edge of the grate. I am going to use the evenly spaced holes in the top for my first build as per the instructions on NorCo's build. Maybe some of the more season uds pros can chime in and elaborate on their experience. I may be totally wrong in my thinking but for some reason it makes sense to me.

I used the 2" bung hole and have not had any of the problems you are worried about.

soapy_junk · 08-02-2011, 11:52 AM

OK.. update on my build.. just got back from a home depot on my lunch break.. figure i would start collecting parts.. first stop was the plumbing dept for some black pipe..

my plan was to use a single 1.5" ID vent w/ ball valve..

2 questions.. dept the largest i saw was a 1" ball valve.. any ideas of where to source a larger 1.5" valve?

also.. what size hole needs to be drilled in the barrel to allow the pipe to be threaded in?.. i know the 3/4 pipe uses a 1" hole.. but what for the 1.5" pipe.. also.. what is recomended to get a clean hole that large.. do the make vari-bits that size?

thanks in advance

Carbon · 08-02-2011, 12:09 PM

You can buy 1.5" full port ball valves on line, or even from Amazon. I've seen them at smaller hardware stores for under $30, a bit pricey. I know HD's don't stock larger valves.

If you don't have a bi-metal bit that large you can simply trace the hole size onto the drum from a 1.5" nipple you'll be using. Drill a starter hole and you can use a zigsaw to cut out the hole.

I like the single big valve set up but the parts alone can cost you close to $60 with a 2 foot extension, for instance......something to consider.

soapy_junk · 08-02-2011, 12:12 PM

i was planning on using a 12" extennsion.. the parts except the ball valve (nipple, elbow, and extension) were only about $15.. just the drilling of the hole and ball valve are the pricy components

looks like the listed OD of the 1.5" black pipe is 1.9".. now im guessing that is the OD of the pipe itself.. not the threaded portion.. what size hole would you drill for that..

if i use a hole saw.. cut a 2" hole.. and use a floor flange to connect the pipe.. would that work?.. will the floor flange create a good enough seal against the outside of the drum?.. can i put some high temp silicone there or something?

chico4missions · 08-02-2011, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodbutcher1

Here are some pics of how i made the bottom of a 22.5" weber kettle the domed lid for my UDS.

Awesome THANKS! I work at a Welding/Gas Supplier

so I think I can manage to do this.

Carbon · 08-02-2011, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soapy_junk

if i use a hole saw.. cut a 2" hole.. and use a floor flange to connect the pipe.. would that work?.. will the floor flange create a good enough seal against the outside of the drum?.. can i put some high temp silicone there or something?

I would not use a floor flange in that size. I don't think the curveture of the drum will conform well to the large diameter flange.
How about just threading a short nipple into the elbow and securing it with a 1.5" nut from the inside of the drum?

soapy_junk · 08-02-2011, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carbon

I would not use a floor flange in that size. I don't think the curveture of the drum will conform well to the large diameter flange.
How about just threading a short nipple into the elbow and securing it with a 1.5" nut from the inside of the drum?

that is the orig / ideal plan.. but what size hole is ideal for threading in the nipple?

08-02-2011, 04:42 AM	#8359
Sammy_Shuford is One Chatty Farker Join Date: 05-17-09 Location: Summerville, SC	WWW.BoltDepot.com Small orders of stanless hardware. __________________ [LEFT][COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana] Yoder YS640 PitBoss Copper top series 7 [I][FONT="Arial Black"][B][I]A Pair of Pellet Poopers[/I][/B][/FONT][/I][/FONT][/COLOR] [/LEFT] [FONT=Verdana][COLOR=black][COLOR=magenta]Purple Thermapen:laugh:[/COLOR][/COLOR][/FONT] MASTER Judge, SCBA Carolina Pit Master [URL]http://patio-q.com/[/URL]

08-02-2011, 11:52 AM	#8365
soapy_junk Is lookin for wood to cook with. Join Date: 07-27-11 Location: Centereach, NY	update OK.. update on my build.. just got back from a home depot on my lunch break.. figure i would start collecting parts.. first stop was the plumbing dept for some black pipe.. my plan was to use a single 1.5" ID vent w/ ball valve.. 2 questions.. dept the largest i saw was a 1" ball valve.. any ideas of where to source a larger 1.5" valve? also.. what size hole needs to be drilled in the barrel to allow the pipe to be threaded in?.. i know the 3/4 pipe uses a 1" hole.. but what for the 1.5" pipe.. also.. what is recomended to get a clean hole that large.. do the make vari-bits that size? thanks in advance

08-02-2011, 12:09 PM	#8366
Carbon is One Chatty Farker Join Date: 08-24-08 Location: Los Angeles	You can buy 1.5" full port ball valves on line, or even from Amazon. I've seen them at smaller hardware stores for under $30, a bit pricey. I know HD's don't stock larger valves. If you don't have a bi-metal bit that large you can simply trace the hole size onto the drum from a 1.5" nipple you'll be using. Drill a starter hole and you can use a zigsaw to cut out the hole. I like the single big valve set up but the parts alone can cost you close to $60 with a 2 foot extension, for instance......something to consider. __________________ ....UDS....Mini-WSM....Midi-WSM....Mod-ECB....22.5-OTG....34"wood fired pizza oven....

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08-01-2011, 05:13 PM	#8356
traderbbc Found some matches. Join Date: 09-05-10 Location: atlanta, ga	I hope I posted this right, I am new and read the entire thread. I just got my barrel and it just has the 3/4 pressure relief valve on the lid, no 2" bung. Looking for some advice here. Should I just drill 5 more evenly spaced 1/2 holes on the lid or should I do something else like step bit it out to 1" and add another 1" spaced farther apart and don't know how much it should be spaced. If you had the choice would you do the 6 holes and does that seem to make a difference? Also could not find 3 1/2 stainless steel bolts for the charcoal grate, hd and lowes crappy selection so I am gonna use the zinc ones and soak them in vinegar which if I read correctly will get rid of the zinc or at least make it safe enough to use.

08-02-2011, 04:01 AM	#8357
BigBobBQ Babbling Farker Join Date: 07-19-11 Location: Live Oak, Florida	I am having the same questions, from what I have come to understand the evenly spaced 1/2" holes in the lid might be the best way to go. it allows the heat and smoke to exit the top in a more uniform manner with even distribution, where I have heard that the single 2 inch bung hole exhaust forces air to exit in one location causing some sort of direct line draft from the intake to the exit and is prone to causing a hot spot under the exhaust and in some cases a large difference in the temperature from the center of the grate to the edge of the grate. I am going to use the evenly spaced holes in the top for my first build as per the instructions on NorCo's build. Maybe some of the more season uds pros can chime in and elaborate on their experience. I may be totally wrong in my thinking but for some reason it makes sense to me.

08-02-2011, 08:40 AM	#8360
jcinadr On the road to being a farker Join Date: 01-31-09 Location: Austin, Texas	I really would not worry about the material on your grate bolts. You would be cremating your meat before they got hot enough to cause any problems. They will get coated in creosote anyway. You will never see them again if you put acorn nuts on them. I prefer a smoke stack to prevent water from running into the it during a rain. Unlike a domed Weber lid - the entire lid of a barrel is lipped to collect water. That said, the flat lid will help keep your sauce warm. Do care about what your nipples are made of - They will rust and make it impossible to remove the caps. Unless you are religious with oiling them - just use brass. As for cleaning - use an ash pan. It is practically eliminates cleaning the bottom of the uds.

08-02-2011, 08:54 AM	#8361
soapy_junk Is lookin for wood to cook with. Join Date: 07-27-11 Location: Centereach, NY	picked up my drum last night.. unlined.. open top with locking ring.. 2 bung holes in lid.. plastic caps though.. so i will be pulling them.. the larger will be for my chimney.. going to home depot to pick up some parts.. planning on starting maybe this weekend.. will post pics the plan is for a single cooking grate.. 1.5" vent w/ ball valve, expanded steel basket.. for now.. usign flat lid.. plans on using a webber dome eventually

08-02-2011, 09:12 AM	#8362
soapy_junk Is lookin for wood to cook with. Join Date: 07-27-11 Location: Centereach, NY	looking to pick up a accurate long stem thermometer to mount on my UDS.. any recomendations for a not to pricy one? also.. considering getting a digital meat probe thermometer to get internal meat temps during cooking..

08-02-2011, 12:12 PM	#8367
soapy_junk Is lookin for wood to cook with. Join Date: 07-27-11 Location: Centereach, NY	i was planning on using a 12" extennsion.. the parts except the ball valve (nipple, elbow, and extension) were only about $15.. just the drilling of the hole and ball valve are the pricy components looks like the listed OD of the 1.5" black pipe is 1.9".. now im guessing that is the OD of the pipe itself.. not the threaded portion.. what size hole would you drill for that.. if i use a hole saw.. cut a 2" hole.. and use a floor flange to connect the pipe.. would that work?.. will the floor flange create a good enough seal against the outside of the drum?.. can i put some high temp silicone there or something?