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I can't say about the Big Lots kettle lid as I haven't been able to find one around here. The WalMart lid (same as the Lowes) is too small and poorly built. The KMart lid (same as Sears) is a near fit and good quality but you still might have to grind down the lip of your drum a little bit. If the Weber lid is within 1/8" you might want to take a grinder to the barrel before buying another grill or hammering on the lid.


The Weber lid is that close. It looks like I just need to bend it out a little and or grind down the lip of the drum as you've indicated. I really don't want to modify my lid as I've had my weber for 12+ years now. It's part of the family, lots of memories on that grill. I may go buy another Weber OTG just for this project.
 
Finally...
After months and months I have finished this. I cannot wait to get started.
Thank you all for the tips and field development.
 
The Weber lid is that close. It looks like I just need to bend it out a little and or grind down the lip of the drum as you've indicated. I really don't want to modify my lid as I've had my weber for 12+ years now. It's part of the family, lots of memories on that grill. I may go buy another Weber OTG just for this project.


I know what you mean. My wife got me a new Stok (Home Depot) grill for Christmas but I couldn't let the Weber go. The lid will go on a new UDS. If you have a 4.5" angle grinder, most closed-top drums can be shaved down to fit a Weber lid in about thirty minutes. If you don't have one, they're less than $15 at Harbor Freight. That's cheaper than a Big Lots grill and a good excuse to buy a new tool!
 
While on the subject of weber kettle lids... does anyone have a solution to the moisture running down the inside of the lid and onto the outside of the drum?
I saw one solution that said to run a bean of hi heat silicone about an 1" up on the inside of the lid. This will force the condensation to drip into the barrel (hopefully not onto the food :tsk:)... but anyway. I don't want to use this as a solution, bits of silicon in my food won't be tasty.
Any ideas? or should I just quit my complaining and keep wiping her down like a wet dog?
acabb49e.jpg
 
While on the subject of weber kettle lids... does anyone have a solution to the moisture running down the inside of the lid and onto the outside of the drum?
I saw one solution that said to run a bean of hi heat silicone about an 1" up on the inside of the lid. This will force the condensation to drip into the barrel (hopefully not onto the food :tsk:)... but anyway. I don't want to use this as a solution, bits of silicon in my food won't be tasty.
Any ideas? or should I just quit my complaining and keep wiping her down like a wet dog?
acabb49e.jpg
I know this doesn't address your issue on the outside of the barrel, but what I've found that helps keep the water collecting to a minimum in the bottom of the barrel is keeping a thin layer, maybe 1/4", of ash on the bottom. This acts like kitty litter for the water that does make its way down.

Got the basket loaded and the pork coming out of the brine soon. Gonna smoke up some bacon tonight, with beans in a dutch oven on a grate just above the basket.
 
While on the subject of weber kettle lids... does anyone have a solution to the moisture running down the inside of the lid and onto the outside of the drum?
I saw one solution that said to run a bean of hi heat silicone about an 1" up on the inside of the lid. This will force the condensation to drip into the barrel (hopefully not onto the food :tsk:)... but anyway. I don't want to use this as a solution, bits of silicon in my food won't be tasty.
Any ideas? or should I just quit my complaining and keep wiping her down like a wet dog?

I use a Nomex gasket on the lid and it keeps the moisture inside the barrel. http://www.bbqgaskets.com/

Your mileage may vary or you might be uneasy about having Nomex close to your food. All I can say is it works well for me on several UDSs.
 
Curious how many use a "wiggle rod" to shake the ashes in their charcoal basket. Are they really needed?
 
I'd like to thank all the people on here, if it wasn't for y'all I probably wouldn't have an awesome UDS. I'll load up some pics as soon as I can.
 
My first post here but I read the first 327 pages of this thread.

I had determined that I would not start my UDS until I had completed the required reading but -------

In January of 2010 the questions were beginning to become VERY redundant. 99% of the posts were asking for and showing the same info about barrel linings, intakes, baskets, and exhaust. I feel like I am living the movie "Ground Hog Day".

Is there any information between page 327 and here that I need to know or does Norco's design still reign supreme in 2012?

If I need to read the rest to be a full-fledged farker then so be it.

Back to the Future - sigh - SCOTTIE
 
My first post here but I read the first 327 pages of this thread.

I had determined that I would not start my UDS until I had completed the required reading but -------

In January of 2010 the questions were beginning to become VERY redundant. 99% of the posts were asking for and showing the same info about barrel linings, intakes, baskets, and exhaust. I feel like I am living the movie "Ground Hog Day".

Is there any information between page 327 and here that I need to know or does Norco's design still reign supreme in 2012?

If I need to read the rest to be a full-fledged farker then so be it.

Back to the Future - sigh - SCOTTIE
SCottie
norcos design is pretty much all you need to know to build one. Everything else is fine tuning the drum and basket to their needs or modifications they did. some people use different sized intakes, valves, grill height from bottom, etc. the key is basket is 3" off of the bottom with the air intake below. THe 24" rule for the first food grate is debatable. mine is less so i can fit two grates.
 
OK So I finished my UDS.... Sort of (sorry no pics yet). It is complete and I even did a seasoning burn on it yesterday. Whild I was able to control my temps adequately, I had quite a lot of smoke leaking from my lid... More than I consider acceptable. Originally, my Weber lid didn't fit so I had a 2" piece of 10ga metal welded to the inside top lip of the drum, which I thought would take care of the issue, but the lid does not fit tightly on the newly fabricated lip. So I purchased some 3/8" Rutland fiberglass rope stove/furnace gasket and cement to glue to the lip to take up some of the gap, but when dry fitting I noticed a lot of small fiberglass particles were falling off the gasket and floating in the air... I thought this is NO BUENO..... So I'm back to square one.... Leaky lid. Does anyone know of any other types of high temp rope gaskets that can be used instead this fiberglass and where to purchase I need approx 7ft. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Gracias,
JT
 
SCottie
norcos design is pretty much all you need to know to build one. Everything else is fine tuning the drum and basket to their needs or modifications they did. some people use different sized intakes, valves, grill height from bottom, etc. the key is basket is 3" off of the bottom with the air intake below. THe 24" rule for the first food grate is debatable. mine is less so i can fit two grates.

Thanks - That's the answer I expected. The first few days I read the thread I picked up valuable info. After that it just got plumb stupid.

SCOTTIE
 
SCottie
norcos design is pretty much all you need to know to build one. Everything else is fine tuning the drum and basket to their needs or modifications they did. some people use different sized intakes, valves, grill height from bottom, etc. the key is basket is 3" off of the bottom with the air intake below. THe 24" rule for the first food grate is debatable. mine is less so i can fit two grates.

I agree with GlogalTJB. Experiment. My grill is only 18" above the basket and as long as I keep the temps around 200F +- I am good. Low and slow is the key my friend - hey.
 
Drum held race fuel.

I am in interested in building my own uds after reading over the wealth of information in this forum (and others). I have found a source for $10 drums here in Pasadena, TX, the only problem is they held race fuel. I have read mixed feelings in regards to this being safe to use for a cooker. What are ya'lls feelings regarding these drums.
 
Shopping Cart Charcoal Basket

I am considering using a "repurposed" shopping cart I have as a charcoal basket for my uds. it is painted, but i'm sure a good burn will take care of the paint. Does anybody have any other concerns that I'm not thinking about?
 
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