Temperature control on a stick burner?

The Pig's Blanket

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Anybody ever use any of those Guru or similar for helping control the temperature on a stick burner? Just wondering? If yes how does it work? Brand and pics if possible.... if no thanks :mrgreen:
 
Many of the experienced stick burner people control temps by the size of the fire. They will even leave the firebox door cracked open for extra oxygen flow. Franklin BBQ is a great example, when he's working that large pit, the firebox door is never closed and temp is controlled by the frequency of splits added. In his videos, you can see the door is always left open a few inches.
 
I use a stoker on my offset stick burner(custom made) and yes they do work, took reserve grand last year using offset stick burner with stoker and multiple places in the 2 contests that i cooked. I often cook at 350 and use the stoker to maintain that temp. That being said you still have to have good fire management and building (small clean burning fire). I have my air piped in the fire box as to keep the fan away from the hot outside of the firebox. here are some pics of how i have mine piped in on my old firebox.


just got a new firebox put on that is double insulated, custom work done by TuscaloosaQ or TQ that has the same pipe put into the firebox you can see where the outlet to hook up the fan is coming out by the back of the firebox.
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FINISHEDONTRAILERRIGHT_zpsccc44594.jpg
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is it necessary probably not, but will it keep temps where i want it and be more fuel efficient, i think so and i have drastically cut my fuel consumption since i started using the stoker in 2010.
 
They don't. Next question....

Temp controllers don't work on stick burners.

Regardless if there is a controller or not... you'll still be feeding sticks the same rate if not faster (due to a stoked fire).

"Its like putting an elevator in an outhouse... just don't belong" - Roadhouse mod
 
I personally went from adding a split every 30 to 45 min to maintain heat to adding a split every hour to hour 15. i start with a bed of charcoal and that gets to the temp and then add splits for the smoke. also went from using about 20 to 25 splits for a cook to 13 splits the last several times that i have cooked. I cook hot and fast so the wood amount would be different for low and slow
 
We were in a back yard comp and a guy was using his Lang 60 Deluxe. 6500 watt generator to power just the draft control! Thought he was a bit daft.

Tasted some of his offerings after turn-in and was not at all surprised by the product. DRY, over-smoked jerky. He actually thought it was pretty good.

That is my only, admittedly limited, experience with a draft control and a stick burner. I have a Lang 48 and can control temps on it quite easily by adjusting the vents, typically once up to temps I never touch them, and adding a stick every 45 minutes or so. Pretty easy.

Stick burners need a lot of air to function properly, small live flames, and IMHO a draft control will stifle the flow resulting in a smokier and smoldering fire.
 
I don't compete much 2 to 3 contest a year but in the last 4 contest i have had 9 top 10 calls in different meat categories. I have not had an issue with over smoked or dry meat, it really comes down to what you are comfortable with and if you know how to run your cooker with or without draft control. As I said before do I need the Stoker(draft control) most likely not but i feel like that in comps it gives me a little extra time to focus on other things besides what temp my fire is running at and do i need to add wood, ect.
 
I am the temp/draft control you can rent me but I don't come cheap:mrgreen:
 
I saw no noticeable change when I used one (CyberQ II on a Bubba Grill 250 RF). I ended up selling mine off after it was recommended that I purchase more fans.
 
I enjoy being the controller. vents, fuel choice, dry, soaked, amount, Etc.

It really is more of a challange and fun than the Ronco set it and forget it!
 
there was a stoker system used on a hybrid lang last night on bbq pitmasters



Johnny if it works for you keep on doing it!!! After the above statement I am sure people will say it works. One thing for sure no one and I mean no one has all the answers. Sounds like to me it is working for you keep on doing it!!!!!!
 
My concern with a stoker or Guru set-up on a stick burner is that you are closing your intake damper and allowing the machine to take over. Unlike charcoal burning pits like a WSM or an Egg an offset needs constant airflow and without it you're asking for trouble, namely creosote and fluctuating temps.. You can choke way down on a charcoal cooker and with just a few chunks of wood you can get all the smoke that you need with a long steady controlled burn but if you choke down on a stick burner you will end up with smoldering wood and that generates bitter tasting creosote. A Guru will be cutting on and off based on the pit's temp and there will be periods of time with less than adequate air flow followed by temp spikes while it's running. It's just much easier to control temps in an offset with a small, hot fire and open dampers. Remember that with a stick burning offset, you are forcing heat and smoke to go sideways before it gets to go up as it wants to whereas a charcoal burner is normally a type of vertical smoker and the heat and smoke gets to rise as it naturally wants to do from the start. It's all about steady airflow with a stick burner.:wink:
 
What about using a controller on a RF that is burning charcoal instead of sticks? Does anyone do that and if so how well does it work?
 
What about using a controller on a RF that is burning charcoal instead of sticks? Does anyone do that and if so how well does it work?
There have been guys here that have experimented with charcoal baskets and the minion in their offsets and have had some success. My own experience with it is that with or without the minion, charcoal tends to ignite too quickly and you can end up with too much heat in a hurry! Again the issue with a stick burner is that it requires constant air flow for the heat and smoke to travel sideways. If you constrict airflow to keep charcoal from igniting too quickly you'll end up with smoldering wood chunks and smoke hanging out in the cooking chamber instead of exiting as it should, not to mention the fact that the heat generated from an oxygen deprived charcoal fire is not nearly as great as a well breathing wood fire. Again, there are some guys who have successfully used charcoal in their offsets but it seems to be a whole lot easier to me to just use wood and feed the fire with a stick when necessary with open dampers and no Gurus or Stokers.
 
no they really wont work unless you have syncro's to moderate the dampers on the firebox and stack.

after using mine alot, i just got good at knowing where to put the fire, the amount of wood, and the dampers. times went from adding/checking every 30-45, to over an hour. good enough for me, i like to baby sit anyways.
 
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