Ugly Drum Smoker - Page 395

h20loo · 05-11-2010, 09:31 AM

Just tried out a new version of intake for the UDS. I had made a similiar intake to the BGE and it was working well. I mentioned it on another site and they said it wasn't "proven" and would be "way to hard to control with that big a hole" . I don't know about the proven and maybe I should see if BGE has a proven stamp but decided I didn't need to be proven since it had been working good with almost 200lbs of lump gone through it. The control thing wasn't a question in my mind but since I had a 28mm die in the press I thought I would punch three smaller holes and see if it made a difference.
The only difference is - its harder to empty the ash out the holes. Control is no different, a little slower getting up to pizza temp but really no difference.
I always get questions on these

so here are some answers- Yes this is better than nipples and taps because its easier to control, you can reach in and give your basket a shake if you ever get an ash buildup and with the BGE style you can empty your ashes so you don't need an ash pan either, you don't trip over this, you don't need to weld or keep tightening this. And No the fire doesn't burn down the side closest to the intake.
Here's some pictures for anyone who wants to try it.

NASCARican · 05-11-2010, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sammy_Shuford

First fitting of my weber top. The top two inches of the weber base are bolted inside the drum top. The weber top does not touch the drum it's self!

I found that in using a closed drum and cutting it open the 22.5 lids fit snugly with a minimum of modification...maybe I got lucky!!

Doc Robinson · 05-11-2010, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sjm845

What is the piece of hardware called that you insert the thermometer through?

woodbutcher1 · 05-11-2010, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doc Robinson

What is the piece of hardware called that you insert the thermometer through?

Can be something as simple as a brass bolt and nut,with a hole through the bolt slightly larger then the stem diameter. This and others are all shown throughout this thread.

h20loo · 05-11-2010, 08:33 PM

Doc- I use threaded automotive tire valve stems. Remove the core and the turkey therm. slides right thru. They bolt right on thru an appropriate hole. Others have found stuff in the plumbing isle and then you can always make your own as woodbutcher suggested.

Boshizzle · 05-11-2010, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doc Robinson

What is the piece of hardware called that you insert the thermometer through?

What you need is a Watts A-192 Hose Barb Adapter with 1/4 barb x 1/4 mip. Home Depot or Lowes has them. Here is a link -
http://www.lowes.com/pd_27631-104-A-...ductId=3133599 .

And get a nut and washer to fit it and you are good to go.

Dexter · 05-12-2010, 09:42 AM

Where do you all purchase the bottle opener to add to the drum?

h20loo · 05-12-2010, 02:01 PM

I got my first one at Goodes on Katy hwy and have since been buying them off ebay. just bought a Bulldog opener for my sons barrel

moda253 · 05-12-2010, 03:11 PM

Just scored another drum for UDS part deux.

From consolidated container in minneapolis 55 gallon reconditioned open head drum with lid 2" bung.

When I got there I asked him if he could grab one of the ones that hadn't been painted yet. So I got one straight out of the reconditioning process before painted for $26.50. Nice.

drill some holes and season and I will be set.

smokindave74 · 05-12-2010, 04:09 PM

wish I would have seen this earlier.....been having trouble finding a good used drum down in Rochester, MN. I did call Midway in St. Paul.....and they had a 3 drum minimum purchase....why, I have no idea......I gave up at that point on a new one. Darn. I did get a used drum from St. Cloud....$28 delivered.....but have now spent another few hours and $5.00 washing it out and sanding it, and burning it, etc.

Maybe I can sell that one and get a nice clean one before I start drilling, etc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by moda253

Just scored another drum for UDS part deux.

From consolidated container in minneapolis 55 gallon reconditioned open head drum with lid 2" bung.

When I got there I asked him if he could grab one of the ones that hadn't been painted yet. So I got one straight out of the reconditioning process before painted for $26.50. Nice.

drill some holes and season and I will be set.

smokindave74 · 05-12-2010, 04:25 PM

The other thing I can't seem to locate is an old weber kettle grill. I looked around at new grills in Lowe's, Menards, etc. Most of the off-brand kettle's are not big enough. The Weber lid is 23-1/4" in diameter, which is just right for a closed-top drum with the lid cut out.

I looked at a couple knock-off grills and they are only 22-7/16th", which won't fit.

Do I really want to buy a new Weber grill just to scavenge the lid and grates. This could become a pretty expensive UDS, if that is the case.

BigButzBBQ · 05-12-2010, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smokindave74

The other thing I can't seem to locate is an old weber kettle grill. I looked around at new grills in Lowe's, Menards, etc. Most of the off-brand kettle's are not big enough. The Weber lid is 23-1/4" in diameter, which is just right for a closed-top drum with the lid cut out.

I looked at a couple knock-off grills and they are only 22-7/16th", which won't fit.

Do I really want to buy a new Weber grill just to scavenge the lid and grates. This could become a pretty expensive UDS, if that is the case.

I know it isn't exactly like walking next door but, I think the Minneapolis/St. Paul area might be the used Weber Meca of the world. They always have people getting rid of them at garage sales, check out scrap yards as well, sometimes people bring them old grills as well.
Here's a craigslist one for $20.00 http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ra...737289593.html
heres another for $30.00
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ra...736544364.html
You get the idea

DennisGS · 05-12-2010, 04:41 PM

Hi Everyone,
I have read, searched and though I have seen many ideas on how to fit a smaller Weber top on to a larger rolled edge drum, I haven't seen that anyone has tried this idea so I wanted to get some feedback.

I would rather not cut off the rolled edge of the barrel, as it makes a nice top. So, instead of removing it, my idea is to slightly shrink it.

The circumference of the barrel is about 2.7 cm (about 1 inch) larger than the Weber lid. My angle grinder cutoff blade is about 1mm thick. So, if I cut about 30 grooves in the roll, evenly spaced around the top, then, using my band clamp, wrap around the roll and squeeze it in such that the grooves are pinched together, I should make the top just narrow enough the lid fits.

What do you think? Might it work?
Thanks,
Dennis

Johnny_Crunch · 05-12-2010, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dexter

Where do you all purchase the bottle opener to add to the drum?

These guys are in Spring TX and keep several choices in stock.

http://www.cunninghamliving.com/cool...openers_1.aspx

moda253 · 05-12-2010, 04:49 PM

Sprry smokingdave.

This is the second time I've bought a drum from them. When I called to place my order the lady said that they don't usually pull one from the reconditioning process, but I knew if I asked the guy when I went to pick one up he would go grab one that was waiting to be painted.

It's pretty cool looking in that it's been heated above 1800 degrees and it's been ball bearing blasted. I just need to wipe it down because there is some dust in it and then it will be good to go. this build should take less than an hour! Sweeet.

05-11-2010, 09:31 AM	#5911
h20loo is one Smokin' Farker Join Date: 01-22-08 Location: waterloo ontario	Prototype Intake Just tried out a new version of intake for the UDS. I had made a similiar intake to the BGE and it was working well. I mentioned it on another site and they said it wasn't "proven" and would be "way to hard to control with that big a hole" . I don't know about the proven and maybe I should see if BGE has a proven stamp but decided I didn't need to be proven since it had been working good with almost 200lbs of lump gone through it. The control thing wasn't a question in my mind but since I had a 28mm die in the press I thought I would punch three smaller holes and see if it made a difference. The only difference is - its harder to empty the ash out the holes. Control is no different, a little slower getting up to pizza temp but really no difference. I always get questions on these so here are some answers- Yes this is better than nipples and taps because its easier to control, you can reach in and give your basket a shake if you ever get an ash buildup and with the BGE style you can empty your ashes so you don't need an ash pan either, you don't trip over this, you don't need to weld or keep tightening this. And No the fire doesn't burn down the side closest to the intake. Here's some pictures for anyone who wants to try it. Last edited by h20loo; 05-11-2010 at 09:56 AM..

05-12-2010, 09:42 AM	#5917
Dexter Got Wood. Join Date: 07-21-09 Location: houston	Where do you all purchase the bottle opener to add to the drum? __________________ The darkest hour is just before dawn

05-12-2010, 04:41 PM	#5923
DennisGS Wandering around with a bag of matchlight, looking for a match. Join Date: 04-26-10 Location: Riga, Latvia	Fitting Weber top to UDS - making the rolled lip smaller? Hi Everyone, I have read, searched and though I have seen many ideas on how to fit a smaller Weber top on to a larger rolled edge drum, I haven't seen that anyone has tried this idea so I wanted to get some feedback. I would rather not cut off the rolled edge of the barrel, as it makes a nice top. So, instead of removing it, my idea is to slightly shrink it. The circumference of the barrel is about 2.7 cm (about 1 inch) larger than the Weber lid. My angle grinder cutoff blade is about 1mm thick. So, if I cut about 30 grooves in the roll, evenly spaced around the top, then, using my band clamp, wrap around the roll and squeeze it in such that the grooves are pinched together, I should make the top just narrow enough the lid fits. What do you think? Might it work? Thanks, Dennis

05-11-2010, 08:33 PM	#5915
h20loo is one Smokin' Farker Join Date: 01-22-08 Location: waterloo ontario	Doc- I use threaded automotive tire valve stems. Remove the core and the turkey therm. slides right thru. They bolt right on thru an appropriate hole. Others have found stuff in the plumbing isle and then you can always make your own as woodbutcher suggested.

05-12-2010, 02:01 PM	#5918
h20loo is one Smokin' Farker Join Date: 01-22-08 Location: waterloo ontario	I got my first one at Goodes on Katy hwy and have since been buying them off ebay. just bought a Bulldog opener for my sons barrel

05-12-2010, 03:11 PM	#5919
moda253 On the road to being a farker Join Date: 07-17-09 Location: Saint Paul, MN	Just scored another drum for UDS part deux. From consolidated container in minneapolis 55 gallon reconditioned open head drum with lid 2" bung. When I got there I asked him if he could grab one of the ones that hadn't been painted yet. So I got one straight out of the reconditioning process before painted for $26.50. Nice. drill some holes and season and I will be set.

05-12-2010, 04:25 PM	#5921
smokindave74 Knows what a fatty is. Join Date: 05-11-10 Location: Rochester, MN	The other thing I can't seem to locate is an old weber kettle grill. I looked around at new grills in Lowe's, Menards, etc. Most of the off-brand kettle's are not big enough. The Weber lid is 23-1/4" in diameter, which is just right for a closed-top drum with the lid cut out. I looked at a couple knock-off grills and they are only 22-7/16th", which won't fit. Do I really want to buy a new Weber grill just to scavenge the lid and grates. This could become a pretty expensive UDS, if that is the case.

05-12-2010, 04:49 PM	#5925
moda253 On the road to being a farker Join Date: 07-17-09 Location: Saint Paul, MN	Sprry smokingdave. This is the second time I've bought a drum from them. When I called to place my order the lady said that they don't usually pull one from the reconditioning process, but I knew if I asked the guy when I went to pick one up he would go grab one that was waiting to be painted. It's pretty cool looking in that it's been heated above 1800 degrees and it's been ball bearing blasted. I just need to wipe it down because there is some dust in it and then it will be good to go. this build should take less than an hour! Sweeet.