MMMM.. BRISKET..
The BBQ BRETHREN FORUMS.  



Our Homepage Donation to Forum Overhead Welocme Merchandise Associations Purchase Subscription Amazon Affiliate
Go Back   The BBQ BRETHREN FORUMS. > Discussion Area > Q-talk

Notices

Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, equipment and outdoor cookin' . ** Other cooking techniques are welcomed for when your cookin' in the kitchen. Post your hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures, but stay on topic and watch for that hijacking.


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 07-04-2012, 02:31 PM   #9691
Soulcoffr
Got Wood.
 
Join Date: 06-19-12
Location: Dubuque, Iowa
Default

Those stainless drums always look sharp. By the way, you can tell how hot it got by the temper color of the SS.

http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=140

Judging by this article, you got it up to around 340* Celsius. (644* F)


Sent from my iPhone using My Fingers.
Soulcoffr is offline   Reply With Quote




Old 07-05-2012, 03:11 PM   #9692
willbird
Full Fledged Farker
 
Join Date: 06-30-12
Location: MOntpelier,OH
Default

Um could somebody please nuke the first post, I forgot to scale the pictures down

I read the first 200 pages of the thread, dunno if I can rfead them all, but here is my effort :-).

Like most others I wanted to be "like but different", so I used FIVE 3/4 inlets, one with a ball valve. I made NPT threaded bungs to weld on the inside. I made mine in the lathe with a 3/4 NPT tap, but I could have saved a LOT of time, and others could make their own by either slicing off the ends of unions (two bungs per union) or using reducers (aka bushings). I drilled the holes with a good quality 1" hole saw I had already, the 3/4 hardware did thread right in sort of. But I'd rather have a tighter fit. The drum had some kind of alcohol in it, the inside is flipping gorgeous.






I added another little machinist trick with the Thermo bungs, drilled the proper side hole through the middle of a 3/8" hex bolt.

The drum is so nice inside I hate to do a face cord of hardwood style burn out


The Grates I got from Menards, Porcelain covered for a whole $7.99 each.

Bill
willbird is offline   Reply With Quote


Old 07-05-2012, 03:20 PM   #9693
willbird
Full Fledged Farker
 
Join Date: 06-30-12
Location: MOntpelier,OH
Default

OK here it is all burned out, still wet from washing. Scrubbed it inside with a scotchbrite pad and water, nothing really on it to speak of.



Here it is all painted up, the old gas grill chassis needs a bit of work yet, but it will work (stolen idea from another brethren).



And finally the coal basket and ash/drip pan. Snagged two of the cheap $10 grills from walmart, wired the two grates together to form square openings on the bottom. Coaxed some expanded metal into a hoop and wired it together.



The basket is probably deeper than it ever will NEED to be, should be no harm in having a little extra depth :-). it should be about 15" in dia and 12" tall.

Bill
willbird is offline   Reply With Quote


Old 07-06-2012, 09:36 AM   #9694
jcinadr
On the road to being a farker
 
Join Date: 01-31-09
Location: Austin, Texas
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jetfxr27 View Post
Looks great. I too am attempting to add an ATC without all the mess of wires. Can you give some details?
Looks like he is using a standard BBQ Guru setup (with a custom DigiQII mount), but does not have the blower or probes in the picture (the blower adaptor is shown on the bottom of the drum) DC power, fan, pit probe and meat probe plug into the bottom of the DigiQII unit pictured.

I don't really care for all the wires on mine either. I just used the bracket that came with the DigiQII to mount mine (tried magnets, but it always slid and fell off). The mount is close to the probe holes and the excess probe wire is coiled with leader keepers.

I have considered putting on a vertical air intake pipe and attaching the DigiQII to the blower assembly and mounting it on the top of the pipe. That would get the fan wire out of the way. Technically I could also switch to a battery powered system (rather than wall wart), but A/C is very convenient.
jcinadr is offline   Reply With Quote


Old 07-06-2012, 10:47 AM   #9695
17mbpro
Knows what a fatty is.
 
17mbpro's Avatar
 
Join Date: 06-25-12
Location: Kansas City
Default Rookies first UDS build

Thanks to all the knowledgable folks on this site I've been able to build this. I'm quite done yet, all I need to do is build the fire box and get a temp gauge installed Does anyone have a clever idea on how to attach the expanded metal to the grate without welding? The jury is still out on the handle and exhaust pipe, but I put them there just to see what it looks like....thoughts?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_5788.jpg (26.7 KB, 772 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5784.jpg (46.9 KB, 761 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5782.jpg (26.1 KB, 759 views)
17mbpro is offline   Reply With Quote


Old 07-06-2012, 10:49 AM   #9696
Kullas
Knows what a fatty is.
 
Join Date: 06-27-12
Location: Ellijay, Ga
Default

There are some great looking smokers on here. the one thing i want to mod on mine is some side tables
__________________
Shake and Bake Baby.
Kullas is offline   Reply With Quote


Old 07-06-2012, 11:02 AM   #9697
willbird
Full Fledged Farker
 
Join Date: 06-30-12
Location: MOntpelier,OH
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 17mbpro View Post
Thanks to all the knowledgable folks on this site I've been able to build this. I'm quite done yet, all I need to do is build the fire box and get a temp gauge installed Does anyone have a clever idea on how to attach the expanded metal to the grate without welding? The jury is still out on the handle and exhaust pipe, but I put them there just to see what it looks like....thoughts?
I just used soft steel wire (probably electric fence wire) and twisted it with safety wire pliers, but you could just as readily twist it with the small vice grips probably, just loop it around, cross the wires, clamp at the cross point, and twist until it is tight.

I just happen to have a set of safety wire pliers leftover from sprint car racing adventures, if you do not I bet the needle nose vicegrips would work fine, the key thing is to grab the wire and keep hold til all twisting is done.


Here is what it looks like twisted



Harbor Freight shows a set of the safety wire pliers for like $12 bucks.

They call them.................(I did not link thinking that is verboten, just go to HF and search them)

9" Safety Wire Twister

They work like a yankee screwdriver in reverse sort of :-).

Bill
willbird is offline   Reply With Quote


Old 07-06-2012, 11:28 AM   #9698
willbird
Full Fledged Farker
 
Join Date: 06-30-12
Location: MOntpelier,OH
Default



Here it is running on the first run through empty with the inside coated with veg oil. Seems like I can hit 225 with just the ball valve, 300 not too hard one plug out and about 1/4 on the ball valve. Ran it the first time with some RO Briq that was on sale along with a chimney full of RO chunk to light it off.

It is HOT here today so I dunno maybe the first 200f is all solar :-) ?? So hot the camera lens fogged up :-).


Bill
willbird is offline   Reply With Quote


Old 07-06-2012, 12:08 PM   #9699
h_nick78
Wandering around with a bag of matchlight, looking for a match.
 
Join Date: 09-02-09
Location: Mattoon, IL
Default

I have a question. I can get an empty SS barrel from work that had 67.2% Nitric Acid in it. Would this be safe to use? I know you can use Nitric Acid to disinfect SS. I was thinking that I could pour in some baking soda to neutralize anything that might be left in it, and then rinsing it out and burning it off. Anyone have any experience with this?
h_nick78 is offline   Reply With Quote


Old 07-06-2012, 12:41 PM   #9700
Kullas
Knows what a fatty is.
 
Join Date: 06-27-12
Location: Ellijay, Ga
Default

sounds like it would work to me
__________________
Shake and Bake Baby.
Kullas is offline   Reply With Quote


Old 07-06-2012, 01:34 PM   #9701
Paul Worth
Got Wood.
 
Join Date: 07-25-11
Location: Quitman, GA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 17mbpro View Post
Thanks to all the knowledgable folks on this site I've been able to build this. I'm quite done yet, all I need to do is build the fire box and get a temp gauge installed Does anyone have a clever idea on how to attach the expanded metal to the grate without welding?
I have used hog rings on all my baskets so far. You can pick up hog ring pliers at Harbor Freight for less than $10. I use metal valve stems for the thermometer hole.
Paul Worth is offline   Reply With Quote


Old 07-07-2012, 12:29 AM   #9702
maliclipse
Found some matches.
 
Join Date: 02-13-12
Location: Corona, CA
Default

For the 85 gallon version do you keep the same size ball valve or go up to the 1"

How about the exhaust? 2" hole enough?

I'm getting started tomorrow on my build and am finalizing my design.

Thanks in advance!
maliclipse is offline   Reply With Quote


Old 07-07-2012, 08:13 AM   #9703
willbird
Full Fledged Farker
 
Join Date: 06-30-12
Location: MOntpelier,OH
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by maliclipse View Post
For the 85 gallon version do you keep the same size ball valve or go up to the 1"

How about the exhaust? 2" hole enough?

I'm getting started tomorrow on my build and am finalizing my design.

Thanks in advance!
My initial impression from one run with the drum totally empty is that one 3/4 inlet and one 3/4 ball valve will probably do everything I need for the most part. The 3/4 ball valve looks like it has a 1/2" hole in it.

Bill
willbird is offline   Reply With Quote


Old 07-07-2012, 08:39 AM   #9704
Soulcoffr
Got Wood.
 
Join Date: 06-19-12
Location: Dubuque, Iowa
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by willbird View Post
My initial impression from one run with the drum totally empty is that one 3/4 inlet and one 3/4 ball valve will probably do everything I need for the most part. The 3/4 ball valve looks like it has a 1/2" hole in it.

Bill
I went with the full port ball valve so I'd have the full 3/4" ID with the valve.


Sent from my iPhone using My Fingers.
Soulcoffr is offline   Reply With Quote


Old 07-07-2012, 09:33 AM   #9705
17mbpro
Knows what a fatty is.
 
17mbpro's Avatar
 
Join Date: 06-25-12
Location: Kansas City
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Worth View Post
I have used hog rings on all my baskets so far. You can pick up hog ring pliers at Harbor Freight for less than $10. I use metal valve stems for the thermometer hole.
The valve stems are a good idea. Do you need need to pliers or could I use some snub nosed pliers (which I have.)
17mbpro is offline   Reply With Quote


Reply

Tags
divided circle template, uds, ugly drum, ugly drum grill, ugly drum smoker

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ugly Drum Smoker ironslob Q-talk 2 09-19-2010 10:16 AM
Ugly Drum Smoker - Need Help Bartkowiakj Q-talk 10 06-18-2010 09:38 PM
One Ugly Drum Smoker Steve_B Q-talk 15 09-21-2009 10:32 PM
My (not-so) Ugly Drum Smoker. hav Q-talk 47 11-05-2008 02:30 PM
Ceramic Cooker Meets Ugly Drum Smoker - BUDCS - Concept Drum Discussion Hook_Line_and_Sinker Q-talk 9 04-26-2008 02:24 PM

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


Forum Custom Search: Enter your Search text below. GOOGLE will search ONLY the BBQ Brethren Forum.
Custom search MAY not work(no display box) in some configurations of Internet Explorer. Please use compliant version of Firefox or Chrome.







All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:30 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
2003 -2012 © BBQ-Brethren Inc. All rights reserved. All Content and Flaming Pig Logo are registered and protected under U.S and International Copyright and Trademarks. Content Within this Website Is Property of BBQ Brethren Inc. Reproduction or alteration is strictly prohibited.
no new posts