New FEC - is this normal?

[monty3777]

I just unpacked my FEC 100 and I have noticed a few things I wasn't expecting. It's now after hours so I can't call Cookshack or the dealer - but I plan to tomorrow. I just thought I'd throw these questions out to you all for some insight.

First - along the top of the cooker the sheet metal is bowed a bit. It doesn't seem to be a problem because the unit is still tight - but is this normal?





Second - there appears to be a bit of an indentation in the door. Normal or something to be concerned about? (you can see it best on the top of the Caution plate on the door)



Finally - the side rails that hold the racks are only fastened on the top. There is quite a bit of side to side "play." Here's the gap. Is this intentional?



Thanks for any thoughts you might have!

[Ron_L]

The top sheetmetal and the rails are normal. The door looks like it was possibly hit with something, maybe shipping? It shouldn't affect the way it cooks but you can call CS in the morning.

[aquablue22]

Sure doesn't look "right" to me, I think you are right contacting them.

[Capn Kev]

The rack holders are only connected on the top, and if you lift up on them, they slide off the holder for cleanup purposes. That is, if I'm understanding what you're describing correctly. In fact, everything inside there other than the deflector panel and firebox comes out for cleanup purposes.

[Yakfishingfool]

Remember those racks will expand when hot and fill that gap a bit more. Looks like what I have seen. The door??? Maybe dented? Scott

[Stlbbqstore]

Nate,

Sent you email couple hours ago but just seen your post here. I am sending another email. Call me tonight if need be.

[sticker500]

Every bit of it looks normal to me, and I have seen a few FEC-100's.

The dent in the door I have been told is due to welding on the hinges but I know Cookshack has great customer service and will work with you so you are satisfied. I just read a post the other day on Cookshacks forums about a dented door and they sent a replacement and it didn't line up with the holes.

Mine looks alot like that. I have one area at the top right where it leaks and it does not affect the cook. I noticed it because of the dark around the gasket and the discoloration of the metal lid.

[smknwhlswife]

From Andy: The racks are right... the top likely is too... the sheetmetal can bow slightly like that, as long as there isnt a crease it is normal.

On the door, it is hard to tell from the angle if that is the normal flex around the hinge..or if door has a small dent from shipping.(is there a dent over the "caution" label?)If you didnt claim it on arrival and accepted the shipment it may be an uphill battle to get it taken care of... as it would be a shipper issue, but Cookshack is always good to work with, they will make sure you are happy. It would not effect the cooking at all.

Enjoy it!

[chasmosis]

I gotta say from working in a metal fab shop in my younger days that the only thing that jumped out at me from the pictures was that I thought the weld on the hinge in the 2nd picture was kind of ugly looking. Should hit it with a stainless wire brush or wire wheel to clean up the scortch marks from the mig welder, maybe hit it with a flapper wheel to clean up the boogers.

Looks like the door seam weld above the hinge was touched up with a grinder.

[jestridge]

Looks like they should have clean up the weld a little better.

[ModelMaker]

The shell wrapper looks like it might be a pinch oversized causing the hump, good news is water will always run off the top. The ding in the door pry isn't from welding, not enough heat to cause warpping in the middle of the door (too far away).
What you are experiencing is the horror of finding the first crack in your new cement garage floor syndrome. The dent is pry from shipping and you'll have two more by seasons end.
Say la vie....
Ed

[SmokinOkie]

Well, I've seen a few FE's myself too (have to get my street cred out there).

The bump on the top isn't something I've normally seen on any FE. If others have seen it, then go with that.

The ding on the door isn't from welding, it's from shipping. That's the #1 problem CS is the shipping companies dinging stuff. I have one myself on my Big Red #2.

CS is great to work with, did you call them and ask. With the photos, they'll be happy to work with you.

In the end they was YOU to be happy, so it's really up to you.

Let us know what they said.

Russ

[Haltech]

Only problem i noted with mine when i got it in March was the bottom latch for the door isnt under as much pressure as the top latch. I can cook without the bottom latch ever on as it does nothing.

I have the same type of crease up top, so this is apparently normal. Like you, i was a bit disappointed by the looks of the thing until i started cooking on it.

I want to pass on a few helpful tips to you so you are prepared and dont make mistakes.

A) DO NOT cook at any temp below 200F... This whole 170, 180, 190F thing needs to go the wasteside or else you may have some serious problems with fires.

B) Learn where the reset button is. If you noticed the switch unit inside the pellet hopper, this is a safety switch to keep the auger from moving while you have your hand in there. What you need is a philips screwdriver and staring at the side of the hopper, you will note the 4 small sheet metal screws. When you remove those, the panel slides right out and you will see the guts of the machine. Note, you will have a small relay switch to your mid way right side. 2 wires will hang off the backside of the switch. If you reach your hand in front of it ( towards the innards of the actual control panel ) you will feel or even see this green reset switch. Get familiar with it because one day, you will need to hit this to get your machine back up. Mine went at 3:40am on the day of my daughters bday party with 80 lbs of pork shoulder in it. Believe me, had i known about this beforehand, it would of saved me an hour of screwing around.

C) When you shut off the unit, make sure to sweep the remaining pellets from the auger -> pellet shoot before it goes down the slide into the firepot. I use a large flat blade screw driver for this. It doesnt happen often but you can create a backfire where the pellet reservoir exist. Dont ask me how i know this... Better to get in the habit of this before a problem exist.

D) Get the cover, Get The Cover, GET THE COVER

E) Foil the inside of the unit.. The angle pan that forces the drippings, the top where the firepot is and the bottom. It makes cleanup a hell of a lot easier. Also, keep the racks clean.

F) Vacuum the firepot, pellet slide and interior auger port before each use. This will keep things easier and less problematic for you. Also, start the unit with a handful of pellets in the firepot, this allows the unit to get up to temp quicker.

Flavor pellets will burn 2X faster then the type cookshack included in the white bag.

If you have any questions, let me know. Its a fantastic machine but has its quirks. If you follow what i told you, i doubt you will have any issues with the machine.

[The_Kapn]

I think most of the issues have been addressed except...

The thing with the racks---
IF the racks and their mounts do not allow the racks to fall through, they are OK.
IF you can push a rack all the way to one side, then push the other support against the wall, and the rack falls--that is No Good at all!
Mine have plenty of lateral freedom.

Someone said to avoid temps below 200.
I routinly cook well below 200 and have never had a problem.
Jerky at 166 with Mesquite for 8 hours (double load) with no problem.
If you have crappy pellets that leave a ton of ash, well....

Finally--buy a pair of drive pins ($5 each) for the auger.
HINT--ask them to USPS them, not UPS
Those are a safety device and if you shear one, you are out of business till you replace. Easy to do, but ya gotta have a pin.

Great cooker.

TIM

[BRBBQ]

Man It's all wrong, send the thing to me! To bad you just missed using it in Council Bluffs.