Not Q, but oughtta count!

M

mgwerks

Guest
Well, today is the first chance I got to use my Christmas goodie, a 23 qt. pressure canner. Now I can safely put up lots of things, and not just high-acid foods. It will also see some use as a pressure cooker, but canning will be it's forte. I decided that I would combine this device's maiden voyage with a real family favorite around here - home made barbacoa. If you've ever made it you know there's a bit of hand work in it, but the results are so satisfying, and you know exactly what's in it and haven't paid $5.00 - $8.00 a pound for it!

Here's what the canner looks like:

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In this part of the country barbacoa de cabeza is traditionally made from a cow's head. However, the vast majority of the stuff actually comes from the cheek muscles which are quite large, because as you know, cows are chewing almost all day long. That being said, beef cheeks are not that hard to find around here unless you are looking only at the national chains. Hit up an ethnic or an independent grocer, or maybe a butcher, and you might find them pretty reasonably priced. This next shot shows about 10 lbs of the 18 lbs of meat I picked up for the barbacoa:

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Traditionally, barbacoa is cooked in a hole dug in the ground and sandwiched between banked layers of coals. If you have been to my place, you know that it's solid limestone, so that just isn't happening. Instead, I lightly salt the meat, then wrap it in a double wrap of heavy duty foil, taking care to make sure that all seams are sealed tight and that nothing can escape. Here's the start:

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... and the nest shot shows the finished capsule. Just for scale, that roasting pan is about 18" wide!

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This goes into a preheated 300° oven for six hours. Yes, six hours! there's no need to check anything, turn anything or take it's temperature, it will always come out fine if you have sealed the foil well. Next, you'll want to open the package carefully so as not to burn yourself, and as Pablo Menudo would say, "let it BREATHE!" What we need to do is to let it cool down enough to handle, without getting too cool to separate. Notice that the texture and appearance have changed quite a bit, and that there is a lot of liquid in the foil pouch as well:

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Now comes the work. There is a lot of connective tissue in beef cheek meat, and quite a number of other goodies as well. You will find that much of the fat has rendered, and it is this special type of fat that gives barbacoa it's unique flavor, consistency and umami (LOL). You will need to carefully go through all of the meat, removing the un-rendered fat, connective tissue, and depending upon your desires, perhaps the nerves, blood vessels, and random glands and lymph nodes. If you take all of that stuff out, it's referred to as 'all-meat' barbacoa and commands a premium price. Up to you. I also drained out all the liquid juice and grease, and stuck it in the freezer to separate. I saved both of these things; a bit more on this later. Here's what 18 lbs of raw product was reduced to - about 9.5 lbs of finished goodness. That's about right, like a good brisket, you'll lose about half the weight during cooking.

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Following good canning practices regarding cleanliness et. al., I loaded up nine one-pint jars with my freshly made barbacoa and got the air bubbles out, I then added back some of the reserved and separated cooking liquor up to 1" of head space in the jars. Into the canner for 75 minutes at 11 psi per specs:

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Well, the time finally passed, and God smiled upon me, as all of the jars sealed well. They are now out and cooling, so we will not know the longing of being without next time we are struck by the need for some barbacoa breakfast tacos!*

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*Barbacoa served on corn tortillas, topped with chopped onions and cilantro, and a squirt of lime. Salt & pepper and a little hot sauce to taste are optional, but never flour tortillas, guacamole, cheese or God forbid - SOUR CREAM!

¡La comida mas fina!
 
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does the cheek meat have the "same" flavor as, lets say, a chuck roast? or is there a totally distinct flavor difference?

thanks. Didnt know it was made from the head. The lies the fast food places here tell me. hahaha
 
Looks tasty Mark! I love beef cheek meat.
Congratulations on the new canner too!
 
thats aweomse man, i love canned meat, but can't say i have ever had that! Instead of cooking the head meat down for so ling, couldnt you have used the canner as a pressure cooker and cut the cooking time down to about 2 hours? I have seen where people cook pigs ears amoung other things in a pressure cooker because of how fast it can cook/render. anyways, looks good man, great post!
 
does the cheek meat have the "same" flavor as, lets say, a chuck roast? or is there a totally distinct flavor difference?

thanks. Didnt know it was made from the head. The lies the fast food places here tell me. hahaha

Well, yes and no. The actual meat tastes much like chuck roast for the same reason - it gets worked a lot when the animal is alive. What really gives barbacoa the 'quality' of it's taste is I believe the specific connective tissue and collagen. They make it singularly tasty. I am going to try an experiment - I reserved thee rendered fat and juices from this last batch of stuff, and am going to try a different cut of meat but using this reserved material. I want to see how the tasted compare/contrast.

Thanks for the comment!
 
...Instead of cooking the head meat down for so ling, couldnt you have used the canner as a pressure cooker and cut the cooking time down to about 2 hours? ...!

That was my first thought as well; pressure cook the pieces to cut the cook time and make them really tender.

Congrats on the first run success. I can remember when my mom canned food when I was a kid and hearing the distinct "popping" of the jar lids sealing when they sat on the rack on the counter to cool.

Chris
 
Looks good man! This is something I've been wanting to try for awhile!

Jeff
 
That was my first thought as well; pressure cook the pieces to cut the cook time and make them really tender.

Congrats on the first run success. I can remember when my mom canned food when I was a kid and hearing the distinct "popping" of the jar lids sealing when they sat on the rack on the counter to cool.

Chris

I actually considered pressure cooking it, I mean, that canner is large enough. Hooever, because of the way I usually do it (sealed well in foil), I wasn't sure how the collagen reduction would be different with an open vent. I may try and do a small batch in my small (6 qt) pressure cooker just to see how it goes. At least this way, I didn't have to clean it between cooking and canning.
 
I need to get a new gasket for my cooker, ir's a 17 quart presto I got from my mother. it holds 17 quart jars.
 
Sounds like a great plan! Contact me off-line her or elsewhere and we can set it up. Mmmmmm... canned Bambi.

Thanks Mark! I sent a private message to you here. :thumb:
 
Well, yes and no. The actual meat tastes much like chuck roast for the same reason - it gets worked a lot when the animal is alive. What really gives barbacoa the 'quality' of it's taste is I believe the specific connective tissue and collagen. They make it singularly tasty. I am going to try an experiment - I reserved thee rendered fat and juices from this last batch of stuff, and am going to try a different cut of meat but using this reserved material. I want to see how the tasted compare/contrast.

Thanks for the comment!

interesting. i would like to hear the results. Down here, barbacoa is cooked with a bag of brown sugar and pork butt in a pressure cooker. its very good but to sweet for me. I need to try check meat. what else is it good for?

thanks
 
Pressure cookers are great for that kinda stuff. They sure do make meat tender.
Looks like that meat should last a while, unless it tastes real good!
 
That's really cool, great write up and pics:thumb:
 
Youre killin me, we moved from Texas to the Northwest and of course ya cant find good barbacoa up here and if ya do its made yankee style. Im itchin to go back home, thanks for the pics and word. Ya rock. Gonna move home in April and that will be the first thing I make......................
 
Looks awesome!

I miss my old job, every Friday the guys at work would cook something. One day I showed up and they had a 55 gallon drum sitting on top of a burner with a bunch of steam coming out of the top. They didn't tell me what they were making, but when they were done they called me over to inspect the food with them. They opened the drum and all I saw were banana leaves, when those got peeled back I saw a bare cow skull and a bunch of tender barbacoa sitting at the bottom in a pan. It was delicious.

I almost lost it when one of the guys asked for tongs, then shoved them into the cow's eyesocket, pulled out one of the eyeballs and dropped it on a tortilla.
 
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