Searing Myth

Plowboy

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Anyone see the Good Eats episode where they addressed cookng myths? One was that "Searing locks in the juices". He did an experiment that showed that you lose more moisture when searing than oven roasting, etc.

From Wikipedia...

It is commonly believed that this acts to lock in the moisture or "seal in the juices" of the food. However, it has been scientifically shown that searing results in a greater net loss of moisture versus cooking to the same internal temperature without first searing. Nonetheless it remains an essential technique in cooking meat for several reasons:
  • The browning creates desirable flavors through caramelization and the Maillard reaction.
  • The appearance of the food is usually improved with a well-browned crust.
  • The contrast in taste and texture between the crust and the interior makes the food more interesting to the palate.
Typically in grilling the food will be seared over very high heat and then moved to a lower-temperature area of the grill. In braising, the seared surface acts to flavor, color and otherwise enrich the liquid in which the food is being cooked.

[edit] Sealing in the juices

The belief that searing meat "seals in the juices" is widespread and still often repeated. This theory was first put forth by Justus von Liebig, a German chemist and food scientist, around 1850[1]. The notion was embraced by contemporary cooks and authors including Auguste Escoffier.
Simple experimentation can test the theory: cook two similar cuts of meat, searing one first and not the other. Weigh the end results to see which loses more moisture. (The Food Network program Good Eats carried out such a test in episode EA1H22, Myth Smashers.) As early as the 1930s, such experiments were carried out; the seared roasts lost the same amount of moisture or more. (Generally more, since searing exposes the meat to higher temperatures.)


In short, the crust created by searing is in no way waterproof. Moisture in liquid and vapor form can and does continue to escape from a seared piece of meat.
 
Todd,

Like the Wikipedia article said, that's nothing new...it's just information that is not repeated often enough. Years ago someone called using certain rules of thumb "The Betty Crocker Syndrome", meaning "that's the way we've always done them". Kind of like a million cookbooks have recipes for cooking a roast that include searing and cooking at 350°. If this kind of food science intrests you, you might want to check out the writings of Shirley Corriher and Harold McGee. They are both very bright. Shirley is one of Alton's regular advisers and sometimes appears on the show. McGee's books are a harder read, but he is clever too. One of his ideas calls for using ice packs on turkey breasts to equalize the cooking temperature between them and the thighs. Info on both writers is below.


The Wikipedia article sounds familiar.....Corriher says that meat scientists in the 1930's figured out that there is less fluid loss when you use a constant moderate temperature. She further claims that Joy of Cooking, circa 1936 pointed this out too. (Mine is the 1975 edition, and it does describe this technique). Harold McGee explains that a seared crust only looks like it has sealed the surface but in fact it leaks. Cook's Illustrated did a kitchen comparison using a prime rib and reported the findings in their December 1995 issue. CI (and Corriher) prefer browning only as a precaution to killing surface bacteria, then roasting below 250°. (They point out that at roasting at 300° and above will give you the gray (overcooked) border on the slices). they follow with an end sear. Altom Brown does have a good research team and I understand that he subscribes to the ideas of Corriher and McGee as well. All agree that searing at the end works so well, and so quick, since during the cook, the sugars & proteins have had time to be concentrated on the surface.

Contrary to all of this..... I do love the flavor of those high temp sears on steaks and chops, as long as the proper rest & dwell are used to yield a rare to medium-rare inside. About half of my steaks are done this way. I rarely do the cajun blackened technique on beef or pork, but I do like it on fish, again for the flavor.


Here are both books I mentioned, and here is the link to McGee's blog so you can get the idea of his style.

http://curiouscook.blogspot.com/


 
Interesting... and it makes sense...

When they are referring to moisture... are they more so referring to melted fat or water or a combo of both ?

Just wondering if there is a partial flaw in the part mentioned about measuring the weights of seared vs non-seared meat in that possibly the seared meat may also burn off more fat in addtion to water than the non-seared meat due to higher temp exposure ?
 
Wayne - I've seen Shirley on the show. Thanks for the tips. I'll be checking out their books and the blog. I love food science. The more you understand what's going on in the cooking process, the better you can manage to the final product.

Vinny - Interesting question and I'd guess that, if you could measure, it would have to be equal parts. I wouldn't believe you could loose water without fat or vice versa.
 
I cooked Alton's rib roast once from the episode with the Terra Cota. Salt, pepper, and canola oil then in the oven at 200 until 118 internal. Finished at 500 to crisp. I did everything minus the Terra Cota and while I have never seared a rib roast, I can't imagine it being any better than it was. He quickly discussed the disadvantages of searing in that episode as well.
 
DeanC said:
I cooked Alton's rib roast once from the episode with the Terra Cota. Salt, pepper, and canola oil then in the oven at 200 until 118 internal. Finished at 500 to crisp. I did everything minus the Terra Cota and while I have never seared a rib roast, I can't imagine it being any better than it was. He quickly discussed the disadvantages of searing in that episode as well.

Works well in the Terra Cotta too...:grin: I think the only advantage is the even heat distro that the clay pot provides. But this is a great way to do it. We tried that recipe also.
 
DeanC said:
I cooked Alton's rib roast once from the episode with the Terra Cota. Salt, pepper, and canola oil then in the oven at 200 until 118 internal. Finished at 500 to crisp. I did everything minus the Terra Cota and while I have never seared a rib roast, I can't imagine it being any better than it was. He quickly discussed the disadvantages of searing in that episode as well.
I'm planning on trying Brown's rib roast this weekend. Glad to hear it worked.
 
I saw the end of that show - even with the higher percentage loss he said as an aside, that the carmelization sure tasted good. So, it's a toss up -- extra moisture or extra flavor!!
 
HoDeDo said:
Works well in the Terra Cotta too...:grin: I think the only advantage is the even heat distro that the clay pot provides. But this is a great way to do it. We tried that recipe also.

Is the Terra Cotta like doing a Tajine? I missed that episode.
 
Searing is great if you are going to braise the meat afterwards.

If I recall correctly, the purpose of the terra cotta in that episode was to help regulate the cooking temperature, especially in an oven that had not been cleaned well or heated unevenly.
 
I just started on this forum, and I know that one of the golden rules is to read...read...read...
But....
I've been interested in a high temperature oven. Something small that might sit on a tiki bar outside that gets up to a very high temperature.
There's a lot of good steak houses that sear steaks at high temps, with their own rubs, ect.
I've eaten a few very good steaks at restaurants, and I don't think that type cooking could be duplicated without a very high temp oven.
Has anyone seen a "desktop" model of a high temp oven like I'm talking about?
There's nothing that I've found worth talking about when I google.

Rick
 
One question: What about texture? I realize "texture" is not a flavor, but theres something to be said about "....crunchy on the outside, moist on the inside....".

I choose to sear............and own guns and surfboards.
 
Lickity Gonzalez said:
I've been interested in a high temperature oven. Something small that might sit on a tiki bar outside that gets up to a very high temperature.
There's a lot of good steak houses that sear steaks at high temps, with their own rubs, ect.
I've eaten a few very good steaks at restaurants, and I don't think that type cooking could be duplicated without a very high temp oven.
Has anyone seen a "desktop" model of a high temp oven like I'm talking about?
There's nothing that I've found worth talking about when I google.
Rick

I think the ceramic cookers like Green Egg, Grill Dome, etc. can get that high heat for you, and they have smaller sized that may work well for your application.
 
Lickity Gonzalez said:
I just started on this forum, and I know that one of the golden rules is to read...read...read...
But....
I've been interested in a high temperature oven. Something small that might sit on a tiki bar outside that gets up to a very high temperature.
There's a lot of good steak houses that sear steaks at high temps, with their own rubs, ect.
I've eaten a few very good steaks at restaurants, and I don't think that type cooking could be duplicated without a very high temp oven.
Has anyone seen a "desktop" model of a high temp oven like I'm talking about?
There's nothing that I've found worth talking about when I google.

Rick

Howdy Rick,

Welcome to the neighborhood. This is most likely not what you are looking for, or who knows maybe it will interest you.... Fellow food blogger Dr. Biggles of Meat Henge fame did a write up on this wood fired oven.

(From Get Your Grill On)
WoodFired001.jpg


Ain’t that somethin’? It’s a real clay oven on a rolling steel stand. The damned thing is so well designed that it gets all the air it needs from that one opening. In fact, while the fire gets going, you can see the vortex of air it creates. The smoke goes in and comes out easy. And it only takes about 45 minutes to get the hardwood fire up to temp. Today’s wood was almond. After observing CB, it seems you build the fire in the center and towards the back. Once the coals grey and start getting small, shove it all to the back and get ready to cook!

WoodFired004.jpg



If you are interested enough to read the full article, you can do so by clicking here.
 
Lickity Gonzalez said:
I've been interested in a high temperature oven. Something small that might sit on a tiki bar outside that gets up to a very high temperature.
There's a lot of good steak houses that sear steaks at high temps, with their own rubs, ect.

I think some gas grills will get pretty high up there in temps - comparable or hotter than Kamados which many seem to feel suffice for outdoor high temp sears. Some grill mfgs pride themselves on their temp capabilities.
 
bowhnter said:
I think the ceramic cookers like Green Egg, Grill Dome, etc. can get that high heat for you, and they have smaller sized that may work well for your application.

You are right !!! I'm an avid Egghead and have been looking at adding a mini to keep the other Eggs company. I cut out a 9-1/2" circle out of newspaper and keep looking at it figuring out what will fit on the grate. :rolleyes:

allTheEggs.jpg
 
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