Lone Star Grillz Vertical Insulated Cabinet Smoker-For the new Owner

We are considering adding the T plates as an option for those who like them. Full disclosure I use a couple fire bicks in mine to make an S pattern, not because it increases burn time it but allows me to control were and when the food gets different amounts of smoke. I am thinking of making a set of 6 L brackets and not T's. L brackets (maybe a 6'' leg and a 18'' leg) that would give you the ability to put two L's back to back forming a T but giving the option of variable spacing between the plates. This gives you a lot of options when stacking in your fuel.

I need to look at the heat diffuser a little more I have something in mind but I want to test it first to see it work correctly. The more I think about it the more I see some value there.

Probe wires fit thought the door gasket with out any ill effects and works better than one probe hole because I can run it through the door next to the grate I want to monitor more easily than fishing wires through a hole then to the rack I need.

We are very receptive to constructive criticism, that's how we continue to improve our products. Let me know if anyone has thoughts on the T plates and I will try out the heat deflector I have in mind and report back

Thanks
Chris

Chris,

Will the heat deflector be a retrofit for existing smokers ?

Thanks,

Lee

I guess the hard part for me would be to find someone to weld the brackets for the heat diverters if offered as an add on.

Chris. Good point on fishing the wires out. Alot easier when I can get to them. Still want to see the baby insulated.

Chris - Glad to see you looking at some other options. At least you will know if they work well or not with your smoker. I'll be calling you very soon (hopefully tomorrow) to put in my order.

Chris, I had an idea last night about the heat deflector.

It would be great if it was something like 1/4" thick steal plate with similar dimensions to the food grates/water pan and you could slide it and out directly underneath the water pan via stainless steel handles like the firebox and ash pan.

I figured since this piece would be subjected to the harshest heat it would need replacing and/or cleaning often over time. You could design a removable/serviceable heat deflector. Also gives options to use it or not depending on the cook.

darkoozy said:

Chris, I had an idea last night about the heat deflector.

It would be great if it was something like 1/4" thick steal plate with similar dimensions to the food grates/water pan and you could slide it and out directly underneath the water pan via stainless steel handles like the firebox and ash pan.

I figured since this piece would be subjected to the harshest heat it would need replacing and/or cleaning often over time. You could design a removable/serviceable heat deflector. Also gives options to use it or not depending on the cook.

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What he said

Here is my fire dragon snake train

Cork Action. Impressive

ggee6688 said:

I guess the hard part for me would be to find someone to weld the brackets for the heat diverters if offered as an add on.

Chris. Good point on fishing the wires out. Alot easier when I can get to them. Still want to see the baby insulated.

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What I am thinking of doesn't require any welding or extra rails, it will fit on top of existing box with handle for removal so its a retro fit option and or option with new orders without changing any mfg. Likely 10 ga so its light weight and easy to handle but heavy enough to stand up to the abuse it will encounter.

Baby insulated is coming, I have my engineer working on a 3d models right now so we can make sure it will fit what I want it to before we build our first prototype.

Thanks
Chris

lonestargrillz said:

What I am thinking of doesn't require any welding or extra rails, it will fit on top of existing box with handle for removal so its a retro fit option and or option with new orders without changing any mfg. Likely 10 ga so its light weight and easy to handle but heavy enough to stand up to the abuse it will encounter.

Baby insulated is coming, I have my engineer working on a 3d models right now so we can make sure it will fit what I want it to before we build our first prototype.

Thanks
Chris

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YAY...

I am so obsessed and addicted to BBQ I might buy the small version just because.... and to have something for smaller cooks. A 30lb firebox would be nice if it fits...

I am still impressed with the design and ease of use. It really makes smoking/bbq a joy to work with the right tools.

Diffuser Plate

darkoozy said:

Chris, I had an idea last night about the heat deflector.

It would be great if it was something like 1/4" thick steal plate with similar dimensions to the food grates/water pan and you could slide it and out directly underneath the water pan via stainless steel handles like the firebox and ash pan.

I figured since this piece would be subjected to the harshest heat it would need replacing and/or cleaning often over time. You could design a removable/serviceable heat deflector. Also gives options to use it or not depending on the cook.

Click to expand...

The diffuser plate does not have to be very thick. Here is a picture of the optional diffuser plate on my Backwoods Smoker. It is merely a removable piece of stainless steel between the firebox and water pan.

^^^^that diffuser is perfect ^^^^

Full Water Pan- Up to Temp in 45 Minutes

I think I'm beginning to get a system that works for me.
I like to cook at 225 degrees with a full water pan. I set the Guru at 230 as my Tel Tru reads 225 after everything is equilibrated. The Guru will show 230 anywhere between 225 and 235.
Ambient temp today 70 degrees. I added 7 gallons of cold water about 2 hours before the cook. It filled the pan and a little spilled over into the firebox.
After adding one chimney of lighted KBB I left the second air vent wide open and the Guru damper 100% open. It took 45 minutes for the Guru pit temp to reach 225. At this point I closed the exhaust vent to 50%, the Guru damper to 50 %, and closed the second air vent.
There was no temp overshoot - I guess because the water pan is full. Even if it did overshoot the temp would come down when you add the meat. I think this will be my system moving forward unless something happens to change it.
I think up to temp in 45 minutes is very acceptable.

Yes. I guess having water at ambient temp vs pipe temp is better. What's your fuel consumption fully loaded.

ggee6688 said:

Here is my fire dragon snake train

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Do you have your firebricks running parallel with your intake? Basically so the air is flowing with the bricks and not against the sides of them?

Chris, as an existing customer I would happy to take a prototype and test it for you. No problem....

jrben1 said:

I think I'm beginning to get a system that works for me.
I like to cook at 225 degrees with a full water pan. I set the Guru at 230 as my Tel Tru reads 225 after everything is equilibrated. The Guru will show 230 anywhere between 225 and 235.
Ambient temp today 70 degrees. I added 7 gallons of cold water about 2 hours before the cook. It filled the pan and a little spilled over into the firebox.
After adding one chimney of lighted KBB I left the second air vent wide open and the Guru damper 100% open. It took 45 minutes for the Guru pit temp to reach 225. At this point I closed the exhaust vent to 50%, the Guru damper to 50 %, and closed the second air vent.
There was no temp overshoot - I guess because the water pan is full. Even if it did overshoot the temp would come down when you add the meat. I think this will be my system moving forward unless something happens to change it.
I think up to temp in 45 minutes is very acceptable.

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How did you light the coals, minion or fuse. On my first run, I essentially did what you did and overshot temps to 275F. The only difference is I filled the water pan with 7 gallons of boiling water and I used the minion method to light the coals.

I am going to try the same thing, but close the vents when I am 100F away from my target and let the guru raise the temps slowly.

Ive done both. I like the train perpendicular to the front door. Going parallel is too long and the curve transitions allows more fuel to be burnt at once. I keep the lead coals far away from my stoker control valve.

darkoozy said:

How did you light the coals, minion or fuse. On my first run, I essentially did what you did and overshot temps to 275F. The only difference is I filled the water pan with 7 gallons of boiling water and I used the minion method to light the coals.

I am going to try the same thing, but close the vents when I am 100F away from my target and let the guru raise the temps slowly.

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With the Guru (especially the 25cfm fan) I would leave the second cap on, let the fan push the air in. For lighting the coals leave a void on one end or in one corner and pour your lit coals (lite a charcoal chimney 3/4 full to full off to the side until completely lit) into that void.

Thanks
Chris

lonestargrillz said:

With the Guru (especially the 25cfm fan) I would leave the second cap on, let the fan push the air in. For lighting the coals leave a void on one end or in one corner and pour your lit coals (lite a charcoal chimney 3/4 full to full off to the side until completely lit) into that void.

Thanks
Chris

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Thanks Chris! I am going to fire it up this weekend and try it that way for memorial day meat fest.

Appreciate the tips always!