Ugly Drum Smoker

i did a burn today with a harbor freight weed burner. took all of 10 minutes at full throttle on a drum that housed olive oil. the paint on the outside brushed off with a rag, inside will need a light sanding. GET A WEED BURNER!!!! easy peasy.....
 
sbramm said:
i did a burn today with a harbor freight weed burner. took all of 10 minutes at full throttle on a drum that housed olive oil. the paint on the outside brushed off with a rag, inside will need a light sanding. GET A WEED BURNER!!!! easy peasy.....
Click to expand...

What am I doing wrong. I tried a weedburner today and only got the lower third, not to include the bottom. Guess the rain and cooler weather didnt help.
 
Kinda Stuck???

Anyone using the 3/4 pipe nipples as intakes w/conduit nuts having trouble threading them all the way through? ( no access to welder) I even tried threading 1 all the way through before installing but couldn't get the other one to thread to the drum. Any suggestions? Thanks
 
biggs98 said:
Anyone using the 3/4 pipe nipples as intakes w/conduit nuts having trouble threading them all the way through? ( no access to welder) I even tried threading 1 all the way through before installing but couldn't get the other one to thread to the drum. Any suggestions? Thanks
Click to expand...

If you don't have a welder you can just cover the hole with magnets or this idea I used from Jerry.

Vent1.JPG
 
biggs98 said:
Anyone using the 3/4 pipe nipples as intakes w/conduit nuts having trouble threading them all the way through? ( no access to welder) I even tried threading 1 all the way through before installing but couldn't get the other one to thread to the drum. Any suggestions? Thanks
Click to expand...

I'll try to help. The short, full thread nipples are slightly tapered from the center down to the end so it is not possible to run a nut all the way across them. What I did is to thread a conduit nut onto the nipple as far as it will go. Then install the nipple from inside the barrel and thread another nut on from the outside. I used a pair of vise grips attached to the nipple to keep it from turning as I tightened the outer nut. You could install the nipple from the outside and turn on the other nut from inside the barrel but that is really cumbersome and it's quite tight quarters!
 
Smokin' D said:
I'll try to help. The short, full thread nipples are slightly tapered from the center down to the end so it is not possible to run a nut all the way across them. What I did is to thread a conduit nut onto the nipple as far as it will go. Then install the nipple from inside the barrel and thread another nut on from the outside. I used a pair of vise grips attached to the nipple to keep it from turning as I tightened the outer nut. You could install the nipple from the outside and turn on the other nut from inside the barrel but that is really cumbersome and it's quite tight quarters!
Click to expand...

Thats what I'll be trying tomm. I'll have my bro for some help too. Thanks for the explanation and idea.
 
Old Hippie said:
That cat ain't gona' make no fire basket for you!
Click to expand...

nope, just inspecting and removing rodents
with the legs removed (from the fireplace, not the cat) and the half of the expanded metal makes a nice basket and plenty of ash collector.

Old Hippie said:
Hope you did some sanding/wire brushing also.
Click to expand...

wasn't necessary, water and brush removed the coating leaving bare metal. the picture is before washing.


Old Hippie said:
Just curious. Why so high?
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better draft and its easier to cut it shorter than to lengthen it later:biggrin:
I didn't have and couldn't find a a dome lid. the pipe stack was easier than drilling the lid full of holes. It was my first try at a USD and I wanted to keep the ugly in the name.
geese, this sounds like a bunch of excuses, and excuses are like a buthole; everybody has one and they all stink.
 
Ok...Figured out my tapered nipple valve problem.....

downsized_1006091432a.jpg

1006091432.jpg


I used these washers...they didn't have them in stainless steel....but they are NOT galvanized either...you guys think they will be ok????
downsized_1006091434.jpg
 
Yep. When I ran into that nipple problem, washers were my first thought too. Instead I just muscled them into compliance with wrenches.

"Resistance is Futile."
 
I'm burning out the drum now and I'm getting a funky smell.... Could that be the paint from the outside of the drum? The inside had a smell....I think the guy said it had oil in it and he sells these drums for bbq's. Any input fellas??? Thanks
 
If it's not galvanized i wouldn't use it... :rolleyes:


They look like they will work great. Do they make a tight seal against the curved drum?
 
Tweedle said:
If it's not galvanized i wouldn't use it... :rolleyes:


They look like they will work great. Do they make a tight seal against the curved drum?
Click to expand...

They have a great seal so far. Almost done with the burnout.....gonna wash then season. Will post pics
 
MuddHonda
Found some matches.

Join Date: 09-11-09
Location: Fredericton,New Brunswick.Canada


icon1.gif

Have read 75 pages and will read them all ,collecting parts & have a few qestions
1. Got a unlined barrel painted black on outside, is rusted a little on inside, Should I burn?
2.Went to Home Depot and Kent Building Supplies, no 22" grills asked the weekend wariors if I could order one said "no thats all we have". Can I use expanded metal?
3. No pipe but gal.No SS bolts longer than 1" threaded all the way. Got 2" carriage bolts.No 13/16" holes saws. Stepped drill $49.99 I'll wait and borrow.
4. Plan on useing 4 -4" x1/2" pipe 2" up. One with ball valve.
5. Basket will be 15" x 6" x 3/4" expanded metal.
6. Flat cover, it has a gasket on it, use or remove? How many holes and how big?
7. Grill supports will be at 26" from bottom.
8. Have a bottle opener.

So far Barrel $0
Opener $0
1/2" valve& bolts $16.17.
Will post pics when I get the parts to build.



Just finished reading entire thread, have changed nipples to 3@ 3/4" capped & 1 @ 3/4" valve all free, free Kingsford lid but will use flat lid with 8-1/2" holes for starters.Found a supply of free barrels am tradeing one to a fellow brethern for a 22" grill. Digial remote thermo @ Wal-Mart $10, 23" half grills $5 each. Thanks to all for the info. Now to start smoking at 48 years old!!
 
Hey guys,first post here. I joined this site becuase of this thread. I have been thinking about building a UDS for quite some time....Well, I built one and promise to get some pics up as soon as I get her going right. I have a problem that I "think" is my charcoal basket. I didnt make a basket out of expanded metal but instead used a big piece of stainless pipe I had at work. I blew a bunch of holes in it with a plasma cutter and sat it on top of my charcoal grate. Everything is in spec as far the basics (charcoal basket 3" off bottom, lid is sealed TIGHT, I have two 1" air intakes with ball valves on both). My problem is the temperature is fluctuating badly. I believe that there is not enough circulation for the charcoal. I have problems with it going waay down in temp if I close the ball valve down anywhere past 3/4 open. The only other thing I can think of is the lid. Its a lid off a charbroil brand kettle I got at walmart. The standard style "slider" vent on the top has the equivalent to about 1.25" exhaust. It has the trianlge shaped die cut pieces that are 1/2" wide at the top and taper down. Im wonering if I should put a few more holes in the lid. It seems I have seen others with this lid though and no additional holes. I am going to try my charcoal box I made for my chargriller out when I get home and see if that fixes the problem. Its 12x12x6" . I will report back. sorry for the long first post. :oops:
matt
 
redbandit98 said:
Hey guys,first post here. I joined this site becuase of this thread. I have been thinking about building a UDS for quite some time....Well, I built one and promise to get some pics up as soon as I get her going right. I have a problem that I "think" is my charcoal basket. I didnt make a basket out of expanded metal but instead used a big piece of stainless pipe I had at work. I blew a bunch of holes in it with a plasma cutter and sat it on top of my charcoal grate. Everything is in spec as far the basics (charcoal basket 3" off bottom, lid is sealed TIGHT, I have two 1" air intakes with ball valves on both). My problem is the temperature is fluctuating badly. I believe that there is not enough circulation for the charcoal. I have problems with it going waay down in temp if I close the ball valve down anywhere past 3/4 open. The only other thing I can think of is the lid. Its a lid off a charbroil brand kettle I got at walmart. The standard style "slider" vent on the top has the equivalent to about 1.25" exhaust. It has the trianlge shaped die cut pieces that are 1/2" wide at the top and taper down. Im wonering if I should put a few more holes in the lid. It seems I have seen others with this lid though and no additional holes. I am going to try my charcoal box I made for my chargriller out when I get home and see if that fixes the problem. Its 12x12x6" . I will report back. sorry for the long first post. :oops:
matt
Click to expand...

Just started cooking with a uds myslef. Problem I had was I started out with toooo many lit coals on top of my basket. How many did you use?? Doesn't take many, in fact my second burn(with fatty) I only lit about 6 briqs. First time I lit about 10 or 12!!!! way too many in my case. Take a look at my setup:

DSCF5296.jpg


Good luck,

Paul B
 
biggs98 said:
I'm burning out the drum now and I'm getting a funky smell.... Could that be the paint from the outside of the drum?
Click to expand...
Depends. When was the last time you changed your shorts?:lol:
Drill ALL exhaust holes.
Burn it out using a couple old wood pallets.
Wash it out.
Dry it out.
Sand or wire brush it out.
Do NOT paint inside of drum!
 
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