Ugly Drum Smoker

[AJP]

Originally Posted by McGurk

Well, count me out as a true Vikings fan, then. Can you honestly say Bret is a true Vikes fan himself? He hasn't said yet...

The only way I can remember how it's spelled is from "There's Something about Mary.":

"Bret Faavvvvrrrruh?"

A true vikings fan would know how it's spelled from the many years of beating we took from him as a Packer.

[2Bulldogs]

Originally Posted by cliffordsimmons

Hello all:


Going to make my first UDS. I got 2 steel drums, both were food grade (used for juice concentrate) but both have a red paint like coating on the inside...what is the best way to remove? I was thinking burning them and then using a wire brush? Or do I even have to remove it?

In regards to the red liner, the best way to get it off is.....none!!!!!! If you like hard work or can tolerate it you'll be fine....but I mean hard work. I did two super hot six hour burns using hickory limbs and some left over hickory firewood from the winter. My opinion is, cut your losses and get an unlined drum. Its well worth it in the end....my opinion.

If you look on page 412 of this tread I posted a few photos of my build and I had a red liner. PITA for sure.

[McGurk]

Could be worse, I guess. Could be a true Chiefs fan.

How'd your drum turn out? Done a cook yet?

[Jay871]

When I built my drum it had a red liner in it and I didn't have the patience to be grinding, so I took it to a heat treating shop that also did sandblasting. For $40 they put it in the burner and burned the liner out, then sandblasted the whole barrel. It turned out great and was the best $40 I spent on the my drum. Just an idea for anyone who is having trouble getting their liner out and have the resources to do it.

[cliffordsimmons]

You know from reading the posts got me thinking.....

Why not do a burn, burn it hot and long. Make sure to drill my 1" holes first. Then paint the inside with the high temp BBQ paint. The paint can withstand 1000 degrees so I am thinking that might be the safest and easiest way to go. Modern gas and charcol grills all have that same black paint on the inside from what I can see. I don't see any harm in just burning and painting over, especially for low temp applications.


Opinions?

[Southern Home Boy]

I was wondering that too. Seems like that or a hi-temp powder coat would act as abatement...

Why not?

[fat_bastard]

If you're gonna try that, I'd run it a couple times at ~350*-400* to get rid of any fumes that you may encounter at normal operating temperatures. Just because it may be able to withstand those temps doesn't mean it won't off-gas a little, especially at the beginning.

[TalonBrew]

Well.... here I go. I just finished my UDS, minus the fancy paint job. But I figured I'd make sure it'd work as is. I'm about to fire her up and check the temps. If it holds after an hour or two, I may toss a chicken on it to see what happens.

I feel like a kid at Christmas.

Thanks to my buddy Mark (soon to make his own) for the welding help.

[cliffordsimmons]

Yeah I think I will do the following:

1. Drill holes and burn
2. paint
3. Run at 400 or so a few times, maybe burn through a hole bag O charcol and get rid of any gas. If it fails, I have 2 of the same sort of barrell to begin again with.

[N8man]

Don't Paint the Inside!!! Season it instead with Lard or Veggie Oil.....
No telling what kind of fumes will outgas nearest the lit coals...

Originally Posted by cliffordsimmons

You know from reading the posts got me thinking.....

Why not do a burn, burn it hot and long. Make sure to drill my 1" holes first. Then paint the inside with the high temp BBQ paint. The paint can withstand 1000 degrees so I am thinking that might be the safest and easiest way to go. Modern gas and charcol grills all have that same black paint on the inside from what I can see. I don't see any harm in just burning and painting over, especially for low temp applications.


Opinions?

[TalonBrew]

Two hours in and I'm steady at 250*. I put 1/2 inch nipples and ball valve on it. To get 250, I had to open one cap and the ball valve fully open. Is this going to be a problem? I could take the 1/2 in valve out and put in a 3/4 if I needed to.

With just the valve open and no caps, I was holding at about 210.

[42BBQ]

Finally finished and seasoned my UDS on Thursday! This is my first post but I gotta add that I read the first 175 pages of this years in the running thread and gained invaluable advice from the likes of N8man, Norco (you are the best), Dr. KY, Chinesebob, and many many many more. My thanks to you all. I kept it simple for my first one. Open headed, 2x burn with weed burner, angle grind inside and out. Just finished painting the outside a solid flat black. Will post pics when paint job complete. Going with three 3/4" intake holes 2" from bottom with magnet control. Fire basket is pretty standard, no weld mod. Side mounted BBQ thermo 1" below weber replacement grate. Grate is 7" from top. Using existing bung hole for exhaust. Test burn was solid with ability to hang rock solid at 200 to 375 degrees depending on intake control.

She's ready for a fatty!

First cook tomorrow, sweet Lord I cannot wait!

UDS
Char-broil gasser
Char-broil H2O smoker (heavily modded fire basket)

[shdybrady]

hey brethren I went to ace hardware and saw something for 10 bucks there is this cheap pan with a grate and he call it a grill. But really it isnt much. But the pan is the perfect size for an ash pan if you use the weber 18.5 and expanded metal around it. Just figured I would share

Found the link
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...637628.1260203

[42BBQ]

Speaking of Ace, I found a 24" square piece of expanded steel that I cut in half then wired the two pieces together for my charcoal basket. Had been having trouble finding expanded steel at the big stores, Ace is the place!

[2Bulldogs]

To get the expanded metal you need to contact a metal company. I have a local trailer Mfg. company and they are who I contacted. I got a 24" x 44" Scrap piece for $10.