HELP!!! UDS won't get over 200!

BigTone · Jun 9, 2013

Hey guys, started the coals this morning, put them in the basket, opened all the vents, it shot up to 240 and now its riding at 200. what do I do with the vent on the lid? any suggestion's? it looks like I have a leak around the lid, should I put foil on it? I have people coming tonight for brisket, thanksfor the help! ~Anthony

Fishhook · Jun 9, 2013

do not foil the lid, open all your top vents all the way and leave them open. Open your bottom vents all the way until your temps start to rise then adjust down slowly to avoid killing your fire again

The fastest way I have found to kill a fire is to close or dampen the top vents. On my UDS the top vents remain fully open for the whole cook, regulation is through the bottom intakes

ajstrider · Jun 9, 2013

The leak around the lid should actually help you get hotter more than likely, it will increase the exhaust a smidgen. How many and how big are your exhaust ports? Exhaust ports should always be completely open while cooking, unless you have a ridiculous amount of them.

Bludawg · Jun 9, 2013

Take the lid off & go have a Short Beer by the time you get done you will have a Hot Fire. DO be so fast t close up the UDS. I let my basket sit at least 10 min before I put it in the drum after dropping the hot stuff.

CambuiAl · Jun 13, 2013

ajstrider said:
The leak around the lid should actually help you get hotter more than likely, it will increase the exhaust a smidgen. How many and how big are your exhaust ports? Exhaust ports should always be completely open while cooking, unless you have a ridiculous amount of them.

Just to chime in on this - I have also been wondering about exhausts and how they impact the temperatures.

I have 3 x 3/4" exhausts and the big 2" exhaust. To date, I have been keeping the 3 x 3/4" closed and just using the 2", but I am wondering if this is actually the wrong thing to do.

I will experiment, but just wondering what other folks do with the flat lids that have the 2" hole.

SmokinJohn · Jun 13, 2013

I am assuming you have three intake holes (you didn't say).....

If so, leave the top exhaust vents open (think of them as the exhaust pipe on a car - if you plug them, the exhaust has nowhere to go, and your engine will fizzle), and open all three intake ports.

As your UDS comes within 10-20 degrees of target, close off ONE intake. Watch the temp. When it gets within 5 degrees of target, close the SECOND intake. Watch the temp again. It *should* stay at the desired temp. If not (and this is where ball valves and magnets earn their pay), restrict the air flow to the THIRD intake.

This should put you on track, unless you have a leak. If you do, use foil, gasket rope, a welders blanket, or RTV caulk, depending on where it is.

CambuiAl · Jun 13, 2013

SmokinJohn said:
I am assuming you have three intake holes (you didn't say).....

If so, leave the top exhaust vents open (think of them as the exhaust pipe on a car - if you plug them, the exhaust has nowhere to go, and your engine will fizzle), and open all three intake ports.

As your UDS comes within 10-20 degrees of target, close off ONE intake. Watch the temp. When it gets within 5 degrees of target, close the SECOND intake. Watch the temp again. It *should* stay at the desired temp. If not (and this is where ball valves and magnets earn their pay), restrict the air flow to the THIRD intake.

This should put you on track, unless you have a leak. If you do, use foil, gasket rope, a welders blanket, or RTV caulk, depending on where it is.

Many thanks SmokinJohn - I have 2 x 3/4" inlets (with caps) and a 1.5" ball-valve.

So, in terms of exhausts - I should have the 2" open and the 3 x 3/4" exhausts all open too? I got confused because I read about people matching their inlet square-inchage with their exhaust square-inchage! I have 4.25" of exhausts, but only about half that for inlets, of which 1.5" are closed (if I shut the 2 x 3/4" inlets). It kind of makes sense, as I suppose it creates more updraft if the exhaust is greater than the inlet.

Here's the lid showing the exhausts, just so it makes more sense what I am on about:

Thanks!

SmokinJohn · Jun 13, 2013

Whoooaaa...I geeked out there for a second with the intake/exhaust matching and your UDS....

My UDS has a weber lid with the stock 4 holes for exhaust. I *think* those are 1/2" holes, giving me a the equivalent of 2" of exhaust. I use 3 3/4" intakes, one of which has a ball valve. That figures to be 2 1/4"" of intake (I'm dropping the square stuff for simplicity).

Most of the time, I run with 2 of the intakes capped, the ball valve in a 3/4 open position and the exhaust wide open. It will run from 225-270 at that setting all day (and night).

Occasionally, I need one intake uncapped (and the ball valve still in 3/4 open position), usually when I have wind, but sometimes if I need the 300-350 range.

Does that help?

CambuiAl · Jun 13, 2013

Thanks SmokinJohn - yes, all input helps! I am going to do some more tests and try and avoid getting my head around the quantum physics of inlet/exhaust load-balancing, or whatever it is, and try the KISS method instead!

To date, I have only had the 2" exhaust open, and generally the inlets closed, and the ball-valve marginally closed. I am going to see what the impact of opening other exhausts are, assuming inlets stay the same.

Thanks again!

HELP!!! UDS won't get over 200!

BigTone

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Fishhook

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ajstrider

is Blowin Smoke!

Bludawg

somebody shut me the fark up.

CambuiAl

Knows what a fatty is.

SmokinJohn

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CambuiAl

Knows what a fatty is.

SmokinJohn

Babbling Farker

CambuiAl

Knows what a fatty is.

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