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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, equipment and outdoor cookin' . ** Other cooking techniques are welcomed for when your cookin' in the kitchen. Post your hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures, but stay on topic and watch for that hijacking. |
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04-03-2011, 09:32 PM | #7696 |
Full Fledged Farker
Join Date: 09-21-10
Location: Berks County, PA
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Long time watcher of this forum, now trying my hand at 2 UDS builds. I'm starting a competition team, and my teammate and I are building.
I've read a bunch of this thread, but still weary on what I should do. Any and all help greatly appreciated. After securing most all the parts, we were down to getting the drums....which proved tough for some reason around here. We landed drums today via craigslist. We were told they had a plastic bag inside, and the guy just removed the bag. Looks nicely painted inside actually (beige/tan), and no liner. A perfect fitting clamp on lid with gasket (which I'll remove) on the underside of lid. http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/IMG_3162.jpg http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/IMG_3163.jpg We're planning to burn out and have them sandblasted, and then paint ourselves. Trying to do this part as cheap as possible, but with good results. I know... I know. I do have a weedburner, and was wondering if I could get away on this alone to remove the paint? I got it for Christmas, have not yet used it so that’s a problem. I have a Weber 22.5 Lid, and that sadly isn't quite large enough to fit over the drum lip. On the photo below, I centered the Weber lid on the rolled edge of the drum. It's basically that 'short' of fitting the whole way round the drum. Is the fix here to remove the rolled lip on the drum? Or add a welded strip on inside of drum extending higher than rolled edge? http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/IMG_3166.jpg Again....trying to do it as economical as possible, but also functional (2 cooking grids?). I called so many local metal places/welders trying to get help with a charcoal box. Everyone tried to rip me off, so I made it myself this weekend. Now I'm dreading I'll get the same thing from sandblasters for the drum, and lid mods. Any and all help greatly appreciated!!!! |
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04-03-2011, 11:35 PM | #7697 |
On the road to being a farker
Join Date: 05-03-10
Location: Wichita, KS
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Fornia, I had the same problem with my weber lid. I just flatted out the lip on my lid and it sits flat on my drum now. It's not air tight, but it's far enough away from the fire that it doesn't really matter.
I should note that my weber lid is from an old useless OTS, so I didn't mind flattening the lip and donating the lid to my UDS permanently. As far as your paint issues...I'd say you should see what a good hot fire does to that paint before you start getting quotes on sandblasting. Then again, if a hot fire doesn't get rid of all that paint, I doubt that 250 degrees of BBQ temperature will disturb it either. I know that there are some in this thread who are cooking on drums that still have paint inside of them, the paint just happens to be under a nice layer of grease at this point. |
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04-04-2011, 02:21 AM | #7698 | |
Quintessential Chatty Farker
Join Date: 12-17-10
Location: Pleasanton, Ca
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Quote:
As far as the top of the drum goes, I took a die grinder and cut off the top. then i put the clamp that held the lid on around the top about an inch below the top and tightened it. This made it round again. Then I welded a 3/16" round bar to the inside of the barrel at the top. The Weber lid then fit perfectly.
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XL BGE, Kamado Joe Jr, Santa Maria pit, 26" Weber custom performer, MAK One Star pellet cooker, 14.5" WSM, Jumbo Joe, WGA, Arte Flame griddle insert for the 26" Weber. Custom wooden handles for BBQ's made by Marty Leach (oh, that's me) [url]http://www.amlwoodart.com[/url] |
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04-04-2011, 07:29 AM | #7699 |
On the road to being a farker
Join Date: 03-29-11
Location: Monroe, NC
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My brother can get me a 55 gallon drum from his work for free. My choices are from one that contained washer fluid concentrate or one that contained brake cleaner. He says they are unlined and that he can have the top popped for me too. Are either of these good choices or should I stick with something food grade? So far the only food grade container I've found is about an hour plus drive, but only $12.
I plan to wash the drum with warm soapy water at least twice to get any remnants out before I burn the inside. Anything else I should do?
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Mike - UDS (born 5/22/2011) and a Weber E310 gasser |
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04-04-2011, 09:52 AM | #7700 |
On the road to being a farker
Join Date: 03-30-11
Location: Md
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hey guys, I did my burn out and then once it was done, it started to rain. I got some light rust in spots on the inside of the drum, but Im not worried about that. I think that shows whatever was in the barrel is gone now.
Question is, on my S/S basket ( I threw it in the barrel during the first burn out ) , it looks like a red powder is stuck on the S/S or is that from the wood I was burning? I only included one pallet and burned all sticks/wood pieces. Any idea on what it is? edit: I did have an uncoated barrel. Just some rust stuff that was it. No epoxy. |
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04-04-2011, 10:15 AM | #7701 |
is one Smokin' Farker
Join Date: 04-04-10
Location: Shelby Twp. Macomb Co. SE Michigan
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Fornia!
See how your Weber lid fits on the bottom side of your drum. Should be a lot better. If it fits, invert your drum and make the removable lid and clamp your BOTTOM. This would solve a lot of problems for you.
__________________
leonard ----------------- Real Men Don't Drink Milk-----They Eat The Cow. 55 Gal. UDS 30 Gal. UDS 16 Gal. Mini. UDS [COLOR=Blue]Maverick ET-732 & iQue - 110 [/COLOR] |
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04-04-2011, 10:17 AM | #7702 | |
Is lookin for wood to cook with.
Join Date: 03-28-11
Location: Flower Mound, TX
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Quote:
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04-04-2011, 10:36 AM | #7703 |
On the road to being a farker
Join Date: 03-30-11
Location: Md
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are the 4 holes in a weber kettle lie enough exhaust?
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04-04-2011, 10:54 AM | #7704 |
Is lookin for wood to cook with.
Join Date: 08-20-10
Location: Ohio
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I'm curious as to what paint you're all using for the glossy finishes. Is it engine paint? and do you notice any where near the bottom around the fire basket? I currently have the high heat flat black stuff, but want to color my UDS up and make it shiny.
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04-04-2011, 10:59 AM | #7705 | |
Is lookin for wood to cook with.
Join Date: 08-20-10
Location: Ohio
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Quote:
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04-04-2011, 11:04 AM | #7706 | |
Babbling Farker
Join Date: 04-16-09
Location: Lake Charles La
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You can use engine or header paint available at auto parts house.I used purple and yellow on mine-LSU Tigers. |
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04-04-2011, 11:11 AM | #7707 |
On the road to being a farker
Join Date: 03-30-11
Location: Md
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yeah, just make sure when you paint it, do all the coats you want within the first hour. And then you have to let the paint cure ( think dont touch/use ) for 7 days. This will let the paint harden etc. It will get a tad harder when you use it the first time because of the heat but yeah. Let it sit.
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04-04-2011, 11:13 AM | #7708 |
Is lookin for wood to cook with.
Join Date: 08-20-10
Location: Ohio
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Thanks, that's what I was looking at but was concerned about the 600°F limit
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04-04-2011, 11:13 AM | #7709 | |
Is lookin for wood to cook with.
Join Date: 08-20-10
Location: Ohio
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Quote:
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04-04-2011, 11:15 AM | #7710 |
On the road to being a farker
Join Date: 03-30-11
Location: Md
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I bet you they will have TONS. Duplicolor's high heat line has a zillion colors and it doesnt have to be header it can be the engine stuff too.
If you have a Pep Boys or an ADvanced Auto, those have the biggest selection for me at least. |
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Tags |
divided circle template, uds, ugly drum, ugly drum grill, ugly drum smoker |
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