Who has added a door to their UDS?

Czarbecue

Czarbecue

Babbling Farker
Joined
Jun 24, 2017
Messages
3,856
Reaction score
3...
Points
0
Location
Monroe, GA
Long story short, neglect got busy with rain and made bastard twins called mold and rust. I though the lid was on tight but a small gap made rain water trickle in. It was bad. My wife came out in the middle of the cleaning and asked what dead animal did I find in the carport?

I scrubbed the drum clean and did my best with the grates and vortex basket. The grates got a heat bath in the cabinet. I lit a whole bag of Cowboy lump in the drum. It was well into 800-900 degrees and I left the intake wide open. Here’s the aftermath.

373eefa03ea24cc5f7f321804cd49f16.jpg


18a4ee7354d9f057d878057f74b3990f.jpg


e985966e06439ce40093d1ec5094196e.jpg


I figure the door will make the smoker more user friendly. The proposed door would be between one of the gaps of the grate holder system. You can tell from the exterior where it is by burnt paint.

Questions I have are:

1) Will it matter if I cut where the barrel seam is?

2) Does anyone have any visuals to frame the door with a barrel with the ripples( that’s what I call it)?
 
Last edited:
Why do you want a door? (notice I did not say "need")

More user friendly in what way?

You can certainly cut a door in the barrel- it's just thin, mild steel after all. But getting it to seal up "drum tight" (wonder why they call it that?) might be iffy. I suppose you could frame it out and use some of the lava lock gasket to help you out.

There are a couple of members who would not have a drum without a door- for whatever reason floats their boats.

LavaLock makes a prefabbed door for drum smokers. If I were going to do a door- I might use one.
https://bbqsmokermods.com/build-your-own-smoker/uds-complete-parts-kit-ugly-drum-smoker/lavalockr-quick-coaltm-wsm-door-mod-for-22-5-weber-smokey-mountain-or-55-gallon-uds-smoker.html

Let us know how it goes.
 
Nuco59 said:
Why do you want a door? (notice I did not say "need")

More user friendly in what way?
Click to expand...

The 110 gallon drum is 41 inches tall by itself. With the 4" casters it adds 6" in height so its at about four feet just to reach in to put the vortex charcoal basket down.

I'm not sold on the door idea either. I love how air tight the drum can be when I hammer down the lid with a mallet (which I should have done during storage). I just don't use it that often anymore and am looking for any reason to increase it's usability.

Honestly the access to the charcoal thing is a really big hassle. I got rid of my double decker WSM because of the drum but I think I used it a total of 8 times since I built it. About half of those times was to mess around with the temps.
 
I think I seen someone mention oil dry or kitty litter un the bottom to stop mold. I also think opening an intake and exhaust will give the airflow needed to prevent this
 
The 110 gallon drum is 41 inches tall by itself. With the 4" casters it adds 6" in height so its at about four feet just to reach in to put the vortex charcoal basket down.

Dayum.

maybe a harbor freight engine hoist?

"go big or go home" strikes again. j/k

I was a big fan of that build- it was the mother of all UDS's /salute.

But I knew there would be a few obstacles - I honestly was more concerned with you trying to shuffle 2 HUGE grates loaded with hot meat (mmmmmmm)- I also knew you had a big honkin' votex basket- guessing it weighs a ton before you put in 20lb of charcoal. The height never crossed my mind. Hell, I mess up a bunch of tees just reaching into my 55- it's only 41 tall - casters included.

I can see why a door might be appealing... still not sure I'd do it. I'd get a beefy step stool before I cut into that beauty.
 
Cut it horizontally, add flat strap lip with a gasket?
A two piece UDS?
 
I have been thinking about this too but on my 55 gallon drum. I hate that I have to take the grates out everytime and it is a pain to get the vacuum in the bottom to get the ash out. I think I would stay away from the seam. Maybe use that as the point to weld in the hinges? My concern would be letting more air in and not being able to control temps like they work now. But you could use strap metal and baskets and make it pretty air tight. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with!
 
I've built about 7) BUFORD UDS smokers, they all feature a fire basket access door, wouldn't have a UDS without one. None of the doors leak air. In fact, if I have the racks loaded with meat, I often have to crack the door to let in some additional air for the fire.

I can't think of one disadvantage to having a door.

Easy clean and wash out.
Easy access to fire if you want to add wood chunks or more lump throughout a smoke.
Easy access to the fire basket in case you need to pull in case of a grease fire.
Door can be cracked for additional air for the fire if needed.

g673Du.jpg


sgeo.jpg


wUU9lm.jpg
 
Last edited:
Before I made a removable pizza pan ash catcher for my 55 (sorta like the one on the vortex basket), I used a homemade scoop with a hook on the backside. Worked pretty danged good.
 
@smokerking - maybe czar can pick your brain? Give him a quick how to. I'm sure you have tons of pics for the construction(s)

If ever a UDS needed a door, his would be the one.
 
Questions I have are:

1) Will it matter if I cut where the barrel seam is?

2) Does anyone have any visuals to frame the door with a barrel with the ripples( that’s what I call it)?
Click to expand...

Usually a seam has potential to be a weak spot, but in a drum I wonder if the design of the seam is made to support the weight of the contents (like 400# of oil) and might not be a structural factor for a mostly empty drum.

The "ripples" are rolling hoops, but they act as reinforcement too. If you stayed between them would that give enough access? And would you plan on cold cutting the door with a cut-off wheel and not using a torch?
 
Nuco59 said:
@smokerking - maybe czar can pick your brain? Give him a quick how to. I'm sure you have tons of pics for the construction(s)

If ever a UDS needed a door, his would be the one.
Click to expand...

I've given my door instructions and dims to many on here, and for the dome lid as well. :rolleyes:

But, of course, it does take some knowledge of steel handiwork with a welder, grinders, etc. :redface:
 
Nuco59 said:
Before I made a removable pizza pan ash catcher for my 55 (sorta like the one on the vortex basket), I used a homemade scoop with a hook on the backside. Worked pretty danged good.
Click to expand...

e9WIlLs.jpg


I modified a garden hoe for my ash scoop. I've seen some smaller pet pooper scoopers that work too.
 
thirdeye said:
And would you plan on cold cutting the door with a cut-off wheel and not using a torch?
Click to expand...

If a simple door is required for clean out only, then use a 4 1/2" angle with a cut off blade. Cover the gap from the cuts with 1" flat strap steel and tack on the hinged door.

Never use a Oxy/Acetylene torch to cut into the drum. High probability of warping the drum and also creating a huge, melted, uneven cut if you don't have the cutting tip set right. Plasma works good though.

The oxy/Acetylene torch is good to heat and bend the gap strap to get the contour of the drum and door though.
 
I had considered a door my uds. Thought more seriously about making the bottom a removable lid so I could just lift the drum off of it to clean. Never did either.
 
Yeah. I did it and it made it look weird :laugh:...but I will let you decide

I am not a metal guy so I am not sure if it would matter whether you decided to cut on the rib. How would you rig it to seal? Do you have spare metal to tack on around the inside of the opening so there is a good seal?
 
Last edited:
Being more serious, but still not being a metal person or construction person, this is what I meant. You are probably smart enough to know that already but that is the hangup I see with cutting a door. If you can do this with it, you ought to be set.
 
Last edited:
I started cutting it but stopped at the point where I have to decide if I am going to use the side as a door or do a frame like Smokerking’s. I have no hinges or steel on hand to continue with either path anyway. Door will be 38.5”x24”.

1b1352cf686c41f09b7c82f80c8b72e9.jpg


7fa8e1b502da1ba969f7bf5df495ad36.jpg
 
SmokerKing said:
If a simple door is required for clean out only, then use a 4 1/2" angle with a cut off blade. Cover the gap from the cuts with 1" flat strap steel and tack on the hinged door.

Never use a Oxy/Acetylene torch to cut into the drum. High probability of warping the drum and also creating a huge, melted, uneven cut if you don't have the cutting tip set right. Plasma works good though.

The oxy/Acetylene torch is good to heat and bend the gap strap to get the contour of the drum and door though.
Click to expand...

Where I was headed with confirming the cold cutting question was it might be possible to use a Cajun Bandit SS replacement door for a WSM if it would fit between the rolling rings. Or it could be shortened by an inch or so.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
A pic I really like
Replies
1
Views
496
bowhnter
bowhnter
smoke ninja
your watch has ended
Replies
14
Views
693
16Adams
16Adams
S
Smoking in a flat.
Replies
12
Views
1K
Maylar
Maylar
N
Time to smoke a chuck
Replies
11
Views
881
Negolien
N
B
My apologies to red box smoker
Replies
4
Views
683
Smoking Piney
Smoking Piney
Back
Top