Big Apple BBQ, Long Island

motoeric

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Big Apple BBQ


Sunday, April 11th, 4:15 pm


I arrived at Big Apple BBQ with a party of four in the late afternoon. We had made a reservation, but it wasn't necessary (at that time). The parking lot was ample and there was additional parking on the street directly in front. The building is stand alone and has a beautiful facade. There is a nice porch with a number of tables for those waiting to be seated inside. The exterior matches the motif of the interior in it's purposefully rustic and pacific northwest look. At the rear of the restaurant, adjacent to the building in the huge smoker that I believe is a J&R.


The restaurant has two main rooms. You move from the entrance into the first room that has an extended bar to your immediate left. There are roughly 6 booths against the far wall and a number of tables in the middle of the room that are perfect for family style eating or separating for small parties. As you move to the right you step under the huge projection screen for the tv into the second room. This area has booths on both sides (roughly 11), a few round tables in the middle and an elevated corner with another 4 or so tables.


The restaurant has high ceilings that lend an open feel and boasts decorations befitting a hunting lodge. There is polished wood everywhere you look and faux animal hides for seat covers. Although Big Apple BBQ isn't huge, it feels spacious. The tables are set far enough from each other for comfort and the long open view, from one end of the restaurant to the other aptly displays the animal heads on the walls.


The overall impression is a strangely appealing cross between a Cracker Barrel and Heorot.


There were roughly four tables in use when we arrived and the others slowly filled up as we ate. Aside from the french onion soup, we passed on appetizers and went straight to the main act. We ordered assorted platters and a full rack of ribs. As every dish came with two sides, we were able to sample most of them.


The onion soup arrived fairly quickly and I guiltily enjoyed it while my table mates were awaiting their food. Gruyere cheese rested on a bed of a thick bread that floated in a smokey onion broth. The soup had pieces of brisket in it and was truly excellent. Being too much of a BBQ snob, I was trepidatious about the soup and feared the use of liquid smoke. After tasting the broth I couldn't care less about 'authenticity'. It was delicious.


The platters arrived soon after. Our table was loaded down with generous portions of pulled pork, pulled chicken, brisket, St. Louis ribs and sausage. The sides included cucumber salad, potato salad, sweet potato fries, sauerkraut, baked beans and cole slaw.


I was a little disappointed in the ribs that seemed overcooked. There was no discernible smoke ring and they were cut a bit rough. Thankfully, the flaws were mitigated by the taste. These large and meaty ribs were enjoyable and certainly better than most found in Long Island BBQ joints. The pulled pork had a milder taste and came sauced when I had asked for sauce on the side. I assume that they are sauced in advance and kept warm in a steam table. Although the taste of the pork was a bit overwhelmed by the sauce that enveloped it, I still enjoyed it. There was a nice cross section of sizes and textures with a bit of bark here and there.




The brisket wasn't hot, but it was delicious. I had high hopes for the brisket and wasn't let down. A strong smoke ring declared the time and attention by the pitmaster. The thin slices pulled the way they should, smelled like they should and tasted like they should.


The sausage was rather bland. Nothing noteworthy in a positive or negative fashion.


A mild vinegar tang rested on the cucumber salad offering an nice counterpoint to the subtle taste of the cucumber. Red onions balanced the mild with a more vibrant, but not overpowering flavor. The cole slaw was also mild, lacking the creamy unctuousness and strong sweetness that is popular in New York slaws. The potato salad was the standout for me. All of the flavors were well balanced and their was a mild heat at the end. The onion rings were very good, but cold by the time I got to try them. That was no ones fault but mine. The sauerkraut was odd. I had never had kraut in that style and I'm still not sure if I enjoyed it. The flavors were again mild and the cabbage was crispy. I'll have to try it again to make a better determination.


'Mild' seems to be the word of the day as the sauce was surprisingly low key. After how it dominated the flavor of the pulled pork, I expected something a bit stronger. It was sweet and tomato based but as befitting Texas BBQ, it seemed designed to accent the flavors, not overpower them.


By the time we left the restaurant was packed and there was a considerable waiting line out the door.



Some notes of interest: This visit was shortly after opening and well in advance of their hard opening. Any flaws should be considered with that in mind.


The pitmaster previously owned and operated Papa Rick's in Syosset. Papa Rick's was a Long Island BBQ staple prior to the opening of most other places here. I'm hoping that he can take that experience and make Big Apple BBQ a success. We could certainly use another good BBQ place here.
 
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