shazam
Well-known member
i'm a printer. been around that stuff for 35 yrs. burn it out. good to go. no different than any other petroleum based solvent. plus++ probably doesn't have a liner. z
Ugly Drum Smoker
- Thread starter jgh1204
- Start date
jcm2m9
Knows what a fatty is.
I just finished my second UDS. Here is a picture of it and my home made temp controller.
nucornhusker
Babbling Farker
I found some drums that were used for water based ink from a box manufacturer. They do have a liner in them. Would you use these drums after burning out the liner?
GreenDrake
is Blowin Smoke!
Very cool fenders on the pneumatic tires, JCM. Awesome build.
jcm2m9
Knows what a fatty is.
Thanks!
I will post a build when I get some time. The fenders were a northern tool score!
Jethro608
Full Fledged Farker
What did you do for temp control? Please explain I can't see it very well on my only computer(phone)
Thanks
Thanks
N2entropy
Well-known member
I have the same question. What did you make for a temp control?
jgh1204
Babbling Farker
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As long as it was not red ink. Maroon would be ok, but not red
Skidder
Babbling Farker
That's what I use. I give the red liner a good sanding to remove it then burn it out. I use those Scotch pads that fit on a 4" grinder or 36 grit pads that also fit. Comes right off. You must wear eye,ear,hand and breathing protection. I can't stress that enough. Takes an hour to hour and a half to do.
danielfethers
Found some matches.
I have a problem. I have now finished my first build. I have followed the basic dimensions detailed in norecore's build but am having trouble getting up to temp. I think it might be poor quality charcoal as I have read a few reviews on the brand and some people were complaining. No wonder is was on 'special'! Just wondered what else could affect poor start up temps? I have three 3/4 inlets. One with ball valve and 8 1/2 holes in the lid. The charcoal basket is on legs that are 2" tall. I have a virtually flat pizza pan on the bottom. The intakes are between 2 and 3" from the base, so should be well placed to get air to the base of the fire, without any restriction.
I lit 15 briquettes in the chimney until ashed and dumped them on top of some other unlit bricks. I the put in the grate and clamped on the lit with the aluminium strap that came with the drum.
I guess it could be the thermo but I would have thought it would be consistently wrong, rather that anything else. I guess I should test in boiling water, to eliminate accuracy.
Any ideas?
UPDATE
Temps are at 210. Just closed two caps and left the ball valve fully open. Will check in half hour.
That took over an hour with everything open, to reach that temp.
I lit 15 briquettes in the chimney until ashed and dumped them on top of some other unlit bricks. I the put in the grate and clamped on the lit with the aluminium strap that came with the drum.
I guess it could be the thermo but I would have thought it would be consistently wrong, rather that anything else. I guess I should test in boiling water, to eliminate accuracy.
Any ideas?
UPDATE
Temps are at 210. Just closed two caps and left the ball valve fully open. Will check in half hour.
That took over an hour with everything open, to reach that temp.
Last edited:
nucornhusker
Babbling Farker
It's black.
jcm2m9
Knows what a fatty is.
I built a PID temp controller. What you are seeing in the back is the fan and the union that I used to make the fan removable from the pit. When the controller is running it will keep the UDS within a few degrees of the set point.
Here are a few other pictures.
Inside the controller.
Weber lid modification
Controller Fan
First UDS
N2entropy
Well-known member
jcm2m9
Knows what a fatty is.
I am using PID controller to control drum temp with Type K thermocouple. I have a second "dumb" PID to monitor meat temp. I might be adding a second "dumb" pid to monitor relative humidity.
Chickenbone
Knows what a fatty is.
I wonder if you are not getting enough of a draft. What are you using for exhaust?
jgh1204
Babbling Farker
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Is the pan ventilated? Temp problems are usually air flow related.
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danielfethers
Found some matches.
I am using 8 1/2" holes in the lid (just holes, no covers), with 3 3/4" pipe nipples at the bottom.
Someone else mentioned that it could be poor draft. Maybe my basket mesh is too fine? The holes are about half inch by half inch. the mesh is quite fine, so I wouldn't think it would cause a problem.
I'm going to try lumpwood this week and see if it makes a difference.
Peddler
Knows what a fatty is.
I'm no expert on this but it's my opinion that there is not enough air flow in your basket ...especially thru the bottom. I use the same 3/4 inlets and 8 1/2 in holes in the lid and have no problem. The basket needs plenty of air flow. here's my basket.
danielfethers
Found some matches.
Looks like I will be making the holes in the bottom of my basket, bigger! Out come the tin snips!!!!!!!
I will update on how I get on....
Cheers!
I will update on how I get on....
Cheers!
Jethro608
Full Fledged Farker
Thanks for pid up date sure wish had electrical skills.
