Ugly Drum Smoker

what is the lining they use in the barrels? How do I tell if the barrel is lined, or not? I am assuming if I am seeing clean metal, it is not lined??
 
Ceedubya said:
what is the lining they use in the barrels? How do I tell if the barrel is lined, or not? I am assuming if I am seeing clean metal, it is not lined??
Click to expand...

I'm guessing paint liners are either epoxy or enamel based. The color is usually a brownish tan. I suppose tanks could be lined with clear poly.

Here's a test. Spray the inside of a clear drum with a little water. A day later, you should see rust if it's unlined.
 
Mark said:
I'm guessing paint liners are either epoxy or enamel based. The color is usually a brownish tan. I suppose tanks could be lined with clear poly.

Here's a test. Spray the inside of a clear drum with a little water. A day later, you should see rust if it's unlined.
Click to expand...

That make sense. In the past, I used some free barrels to make my magnum cookers. They were unlined and would rust if left exposed. they contained a food safe oil used for machinery in a bakery. I have access to more of these, but they are the closed head style.

I seem to be discussing this in several threads, so I thought I would try to stick to this one.....

If I use the closed head barrels that I have free access to, and are unlined and food safe, and cut/grind off the top, what are my options for a lid? have any of you fashioned your own, or should I just use a kettle lid?
 
I like Kettle lids. But don't cut your drum till you have a kettle lid in hand. Drums vary in diameter and you want to avoid cutting it at a location that is either too tight or too loose for the kettle lid.
 
Drum Smoker lid.

I made my first UDS last weekend and smoked up a 12pd turkey with no problems at all. The issue I had was the lid. I see everyones pictures here and wonder how they were able to save the lid from the barrel. Where exactly are you cutting the barrel to keep the original top of the barrel as a lid?
I used an aluminum tray used to go under hot water-heaters and put Garage door weatherstripping around the inside. It fits snug and well, but I will be building another for my Father, and would like to keep the lid.
 
DaHeathen said:
I made my first UDS last weekend and smoked up a 12pd turkey with no problems at all. The issue I had was the lid. I see everyones pictures here and wonder how they were able to save the lid from the barrel. Where exactly are you cutting the barrel to keep the original top of the barrel as a lid?
I used an aluminum tray used to go under hot water-heaters and put Garage door weatherstripping around the inside. It fits snug and well, but I will be building another for my Father, and would like to keep the lid.
Click to expand...
I would bet that is a galvanized pan. If it is I would ditch it. Most of the lids you see are from "open head drums".

VS
 
Fire good! HeHe!
beavis6.jpg
 
How many ball valves do you guys have in the bottom? It looks like Norecoredneck's post he has 3. I getting ready to finish mine up. This is where I'm stuck.
 
One valve is all that is needed. If you go full open and don't get temp,remove cap and throttle back on valve. With 3/4" nipples I find at most I ever needed was 1 cap off 1/2 throttle valve. i put 3 nipples when making it , 1 for reserve.
 
I can't find a food grade barrel, but can get a couple free barrels from a local garage that had new motor oil in them - If I clean and burn them out, would they be safe to use? I think I read somewhere in this thread that metal doesn't absorb liquids
 
thanks for the link- searched the web for them many times- never came up with anything that local- they are only about 40 miles away -will call tomorrow
 
you're welcome///

I googled "steel drum scranton" after seeing NE PA in your profile.
A new open top 23"x36" drumm will cost $40-50ish. Well worth it to not worry about chemicals PLUS all the labor saved in cleaning, burn out, paint, etc....
 
Norcoredneck said:
One valve is all that is needed. If you go full open and don't get temp,remove cap and throttle back on valve. With 3/4" nipples I find at most I ever needed was 1 cap off 1/2 throttle valve. i put 3 nipples when making it , 1 for reserve.
Click to expand...

Note to this: if with one valve and one cap open you don't get temp ... check the following
  1. if you have 100 lbs of butts and brisket - your meat load is HIGH - it will take more fire to heat a large load to temp - or longer time to cook at lower temp
  2. Lid or exhaust openings - 8 ea 1/2 holes in a flat lid is the minimum - none caped or closed - bigger exhausts up to 1 in should only be attempted with great caution - so if you have less than 8 1/2 holes get them, if you have them check the other items listed
  3. moist fuel - charcoal absorbs water vapor and this will give you temp problems, keep it dry and in sealed containers
  4. patience - the UDS is controlled by the air intake - any changes to the air intake my take up to 30 or more to settle - wildly changing the intake and opening the lid every 5 minutes will only get you erratic results - have a drink take a chill pill and have faith
  5. spend some quality time with your UDS when its new to get a feel for how its going to run for you - then you can set it and forget it - really
 
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