My UDS build (Jax Jaguars theme)

I have started working on my UDS build, but due to alimony and child support, it is going to take me a while to get everything I need to complete it.

I have chosen to use the Jacksonville Jaguars 1st helmet design as the inspiration for the theme.





After reading the UDS monster thread (and yes, I did read the entire thread), I have decided to keep it pretty simple. But being the tinkerer that I am, it will have a few simple mods. I am going with 4 x 3/4" intakes and 8 x 1/2" exhaust holes in the flat lid until I can find a donor Weber. Since I live within 500 feet of the ocean, I am using brass and stainless as much as possible.

This months parts purchases:



(not shown, but also purchased, is the 3/4" full-port ball valve)

I had planned on using 3 brass close nipples with the garden hose caps and one with a 3/4" ball-valve as suggested on the UDS thread, but when I went to HD to get the parts, the plumbing guy suggested using these instead:



The garden hose adapter (LFA-665) is threaded standard garden hose on one end and 3/4" pipe thread on the other. The price of the adapter is within 20 cents of the close nipples, and the caps can be used to create a snug fit.

Thinking about the discussions relating to hot spots and way of trying to even them out, I decided to try an experiment. I purchased 4 3/4" 90 degree street elbows, which are straight on one end and flared on the other, to fit into the inside of the UDS to hopefully create a circular vortex and even out the temperature from center to edge. Since the elbows will not fit either the nipples or adapters, I chucked parts up in my lathe end fixed the problem.











As you can see in the photo above, the elbows internal dimension is actually larger than the inside of a standard close nipple, so I do not have to worry about air flow restriction.

When I finished the first adapter, I noticed that the inside diameter was considerably smaller on the hose fitting end, so I but them back in the lathe to fix the problem.



(pipe thread end, on left after turning, on right before)



(hose thread end, on left after turning, on right before)

Here is the way I plan on placing the intake assemblies in order to attempt to create the vortex,



since I believe it should have a counter-clockwise rotation due to the Coriolis effect in the northern hemisphere.

The fitting for the fryer thermo is a 3/8"x1/2" stainless bolt. Chucked it up in to lathe and center drilled it.



Then through drilled it with a 7/32" drill.



I did notice, when looking at the ball-valves, that the HD ones marked as full-port did not seem to really be 3/4" through. Since I was going up to a plumbing supply store for a home repair, I thought I would check them out there. Not only were they larger through, but they were $4.00 cheaper. (I am putting together a price comparison of the two stores, but did not bring my receipts to work with me, and will post it this evening.)

Well, that is all for this month's spending money. Next month I will be getting the expanded metal to make the fire basket as well as the other assorted nuts and bolts needed for this project. I hope you all enjoy.

Pole D said:

...but I would really consider to just sticking to 3 intake holes.

Click to expand...

Hi Paul,

I thought of only going with three intakes, but when I started thinking:crazy: about using the elbows, I was wondering about the airflow restriction. That was before I actually compared the parts. Since I already have them, I am going to go ahead and use four. Then I can do some comparisons of temperatures with two-no elbows, two with elbows, three-no elbows, three with elbows, four-no elbows and four with elbows.

So I get home from work today, and found this sitting out by my neighbors trash can.



Pulled it in next to my Weber so I have some donor parts for my build. I have spent the last three weeks watching Craigslist and Freecycle to see if anyone was getting rid of one. I have also been driving around looking for throw-aways. But did not have any luck till now.

Here is the promised pricing I found at Home Depot and Osceola Plumbing.

HD .......... OP
$12.57 ... $8.67 - 3/4" full-port ball valve
$ 5.84 .....$3.10 - 3/4" brass close nipple
$ 3.95 ....$3.50 - 3/4" brass hose to pipe adapter
$ 2.88 ....$1.38 - 3/4" copper street elbow
$ 1.85 ....$3.18 - 3/4" brass hose cap
$ 0.28 ....$0.07 - steel lock nut

As you can see, the prices at the plumbing supply store are mostly much cheaper than the big box stores. Lowes prices are mostly the same as Home depot. I have been going to this plumbing store since I was a kid when I went with my dad 40+ years ago. It's a family business, so I try to go there any time I can, even though it is at the other end of town.

So, until next time, Q on.

That's my plan. Now that I have a donor grill, I may use the open top and locking ring on the bottom if the Weber lid fits on the closed end. If it doesn't fit either end, I will mod the lid to fit. I found a place in Orlando, www.orlandodrum.com, that makes and reconditions food grade drum. I am hoping that I can either get a new drum just before it goes to paint, or a recondition drum just after it gets burned and media blasted. This would save me from trying to find somewhere to do the burnout myself.