My UDS build (Jax Jaguars theme)

[DaytonaBBQ]

I have started working on my UDS build, but due to alimony and child support, it is going to take me a while to get everything I need to complete it.

I have chosen to use the Jacksonville Jaguars 1st helmet design as the inspiration for the theme.





After reading the UDS monster thread (and yes, I did read the entire thread), I have decided to keep it pretty simple. But being the tinkerer that I am, it will have a few simple mods. I am going with 4 x 3/4" intakes and 8 x 1/2" exhaust holes in the flat lid until I can find a donor Weber. Since I live within 500 feet of the ocean, I am using brass and stainless as much as possible.

This months parts purchases:



(not shown, but also purchased, is the 3/4" full-port ball valve)

I had planned on using 3 brass close nipples with the garden hose caps and one with a 3/4" ball-valve as suggested on the UDS thread, but when I went to HD to get the parts, the plumbing guy suggested using these instead:



The garden hose adapter (LFA-665) is threaded standard garden hose on one end and 3/4" pipe thread on the other. The price of the adapter is within 20 cents of the close nipples, and the caps can be used to create a snug fit.

Thinking about the discussions relating to hot spots and way of trying to even them out, I decided to try an experiment. I purchased 4 3/4" 90 degree street elbows, which are straight on one end and flared on the other, to fit into the inside of the UDS to hopefully create a circular vortex and even out the temperature from center to edge. Since the elbows will not fit either the nipples or adapters, I chucked parts up in my lathe end fixed the problem.











As you can see in the photo above, the elbows internal dimension is actually larger than the inside of a standard close nipple, so I do not have to worry about air flow restriction.

When I finished the first adapter, I noticed that the inside diameter was considerably smaller on the hose fitting end, so I but them back in the lathe to fix the problem.



(pipe thread end, on left after turning, on right before)



(hose thread end, on left after turning, on right before)

Here is the way I plan on placing the intake assemblies in order to attempt to create the vortex,



since I believe it should have a counter-clockwise rotation due to the Coriolis effect in the northern hemisphere.

The fitting for the fryer thermo is a 3/8"x1/2" stainless bolt. Chucked it up in to lathe and center drilled it.



Then through drilled it with a 7/32" drill.



I did notice, when looking at the ball-valves, that the HD ones marked as full-port did not seem to really be 3/4" through. Since I was going up to a plumbing supply store for a home repair, I thought I would check them out there. Not only were they larger through, but they were $4.00 cheaper. (I am putting together a price comparison of the two stores, but did not bring my receipts to work with me, and will post it this evening.)

Well, that is all for this month's spending money. Next month I will be getting the expanded metal to make the fire basket as well as the other assorted nuts and bolts needed for this project. I hope you all enjoy.

[mikemci]

Looking like you've got a plan there Kerry! Always fun to experiment with ideas. Keep us posted on your progress.

[Pole D]

What you've done looks great but so much for this part:

Originally Posted by DaytonaBBQ

After reading the UDS monster thread (and yes, I did read the entire thread), I have decided to keep it pretty simple.

Obviously there is no right or wrong way to build your UDS but I would really consider to just sticking to 3 intake holes.

[Big George's BBQ]

Looking forward to watching your progress

[DaytonaBBQ]

Originally Posted by Pole D

...but I would really consider to just sticking to 3 intake holes.

Hi Paul,

I thought of only going with three intakes, but when I started thinking about using the elbows, I was wondering about the airflow restriction. That was before I actually compared the parts. Since I already have them, I am going to go ahead and use four. Then I can do some comparisons of temperatures with two-no elbows, two with elbows, three-no elbows, three with elbows, four-no elbows and four with elbows.

[Bigr314]

Nice looking build.I have smoking on a UDS for years now. I had 3 intakes with elbows, ended up adding another intake without an elbow. Works 10xs better now at temps over 325.

[mikemci]

Originally Posted by DaytonaBBQ

Hi Paul,

I thought of only going with three intakes, but when I started thinking about using the elbows, I was wondering about the airflow restriction. That was before I actually compared the parts. Since I already have them, I am going to go ahead and use four. Then I can do some comparisons of temperatures with two-no elbows, two with elbows, three-no elbows, three with elbows, four-no elbows and four with elbows.

I knew you had a plan! Anyone who would read that entire thread is not one that jumps to conclusions.

[cmwr]

Originally Posted by DaytonaBBQ

Hi Paul,

I thought of only going with three intakes, but when I started thinking about using the elbows, I was wondering about the airflow restriction. That was before I actually compared the parts. Since I already have them, I am going to go ahead and use four. Then I can do some comparisons of temperatures with two-no elbows, two with elbows, three-no elbows, three with elbows, four-no elbows and four with elbows.

This is my 2 cents. I built a UDS this winter (second one). My first was kiss simple with no elbows. This one used 2 one inch intakes with 90s and 12" risers. Let me repeat qty 2 ONE INCH lol. See where I am going. You are using 3/4 and I used 1" which is a big jump. Anyways several others used similar setups and it worked well. For me I had a hell of a time getting to temp and dropping temp. One fully opened valve seemed to get me about 250 ?? or so and that was one fully opened 1" valve. I could never seem to crack or close any valves and get a good temp response. I was constantly having to remove the lid to get a big draft of air in to climb in temp. Now once it got there it did hold it just didn't want to budge. Nothing like my old UDS. So I removed both uprights and put both my 1" valves straight on the nipples and now it responds very well and one fully opened valve will hold a steady 300 +- 10 degrees. It is a night and day difference. I like to be able to go 300+ for birds ect and I was struggling with the previous set up. YMMW. It doesn't look as cool but I got sick and tired of playing with valves ALL morning long trying to get things where I wanted. This caused meals to be hours later than what Im planned and it upset the delicate balance in my family. Anyways good luck. I see your using lathes and other equipment I do not own so I cannot wait to see the finished product.

BEFORE


AFTER

[Ozric]

Yup. Every bend restricts airflow. I was considering building an outdoor pellet stove venting system under my back patio to route the smoke from my YS640 stack out and away from the covered patio. No could do. It would have required two 90° elbows, plus a longish horizontal run. Would have choked the poor Yoder to death. Wasn't a UDS, but the same rules of air flow seem to apply.

As far as the Coriolis effect goes...I don't know about that. Water seems to swirl any which way it wants. Same with smoke.

Just so you know, I can be a bit of a dumb farker from time to time...and this could be one of those times.

[mikemci]

Originally Posted by Ozric

Yup. Every bend restricts airflow. I was considering building an outdoor pellet stove venting system under my back patio to route the smoke from my YS640 stack out and away from the covered patio. No could do. It would have required two 90° elbows, plus a longish horizontal run. Would have choked the poor Yoder to death. Wasn't a UDS, but the same rules of air flow seem to apply.

As far as the Coriolis effect goes...I don't know about that. Water seems to swirl any which way it wants. Same with smoke.

Just so you know, I can be a bit of a dumb farker from time to time...and this could be one of those times.

Water swirls differently, depending on your location in relation to the equator.

[DaytonaBBQ]

So I get home from work today, and found this sitting out by my neighbors trash can.



Pulled it in next to my Weber so I have some donor parts for my build. I have spent the last three weeks watching Craigslist and Freecycle to see if anyone was getting rid of one. I have also been driving around looking for throw-aways. But did not have any luck till now.

Here is the promised pricing I found at Home Depot and Osceola Plumbing.

HD .......... OP
$12.57 ... $8.67 - 3/4" full-port ball valve
$ 5.84 .....$3.10 - 3/4" brass close nipple
$ 3.95 ....$3.50 - 3/4" brass hose to pipe adapter
$ 2.88 ....$1.38 - 3/4" copper street elbow
$ 1.85 ....$3.18 - 3/4" brass hose cap
$ 0.28 ....$0.07 - steel lock nut

As you can see, the prices at the plumbing supply store are mostly much cheaper than the big box stores. Lowes prices are mostly the same as Home depot. I have been going to this plumbing store since I was a kid when I went with my dad 40+ years ago. It's a family business, so I try to go there any time I can, even though it is at the other end of town.

So, until next time, Q on.

[mikemci]

Take the lid with you when you go barrel shopping. You can always mod. it to work, but easier if it fits without any extra work.

[DaytonaBBQ]

That's my plan. Now that I have a donor grill, I may use the open top and locking ring on the bottom if the Weber lid fits on the closed end. If it doesn't fit either end, I will mod the lid to fit. I found a place in Orlando, www.orlandodrum.com, that makes and reconditions food grade drum. I am hoping that I can either get a new drum just before it goes to paint, or a recondition drum just after it gets burned and media blasted. This would save me from trying to find somewhere to do the burnout myself.