Need help with mounting a cutting board

cpw

Babbling Farker
Joined
Feb 28, 2011
Messages
3,492
Reaction score
2,203
Points
0
Location
Savannah, Georgia
So I've got my sweet new cart for my fatboy all welded up, and I'd like to somehow attach a cutting board to the top shelf

45fe4130-a1a7-cb8b.jpg


You can see the shelf in the picture, it's 18x24. I bought a 1/2" plastic board to sit on top, and what I'd like to do is have a quick/unobtrusive way to attach the board to the shelf, but still make it removable for washing, moving, etc.

Anyone have any ideas on how to do this?

Thanks!
 
Well, tis a little hind sight but I would have welded angle "upside down" so the board sad down in the shelf. Now, for a quick fix, here is what I did on my latest cart for removable boards. I used small aluminum angle and riveted it in place.

You can see the angle along the front and back to hold the boards in. For your application you could put it on all sides.

IMAG0593.jpg

IMAG0588.jpg



Edit: Or, if you want to keep the shelf as it is, you could attach some sort of brackets on the bottom of the cutting board to hold it in place.
 
Colonel00, nice setup. What product did you use for the brick veneer?
 
The original plan was to build the shelf support out of angle to hold the cutting board like colonel suggested, but decided it would make more sense to have the expanded metal on there as a permanent shelf.
 
Maybe some 1.5" long stainless steel bolts, fender washers, and nuts? One in each corner ought to do it. Sandwich the board between two fender washers, hold in place with a nut on the bottom. The bolt sticking out through the bottom nut acts as a pin to keep the board from shifting.
 
Yeah, I'm in the same school of thought as Matt. I would set it up so I could drop in 8 short stainless studs into holes that have been drilled around the perimeter of the frame. If you weld, you can make tubular receivers for the studs. The receivers would be welded to the frame.

Kinda hard to describe but I can see if clearly in my head.....
 
Yeah, I'm in the same school of thought as Matt. I would set it up so I could drop in 8 short stainless studs into holes that have been drilled around the perimeter of the frame. If you weld, you can make tubular receivers for the studs. The receivers would be welded to the frame.

Kinda hard to describe but I can see if clearly in my head.....

Yeah, Marty, I like the studs idea. It'd be easier to clean the board with removable studs. Just drill a hole in each corner of the cutting board, mount some small diameter steel sleeves (aligned with the holes in the board) to the cart. Place the board on the shelf and drop some SS bolts down through the holes. Easy peasey!
 
Not to hijack the thread, but.. I just got a Marty Leach walnut WSM handle in the mail... with The Virtual Weber Bullet and logo engraved on it. :eek:) I won it off the VWB forums!
 
How about putting rare earth magnets on the corners. That would make it easier to clean and remove.
 
Not to hijack the thread, but.. I just got a Marty Leach walnut WSM handle in the mail... with The Virtual Weber Bullet and logo engraved on it. :eek:) I won it off the VWB forums!

That is way cool! Congrats! Chris bought a handful of those from me and I wondered where they were going.
 
Yeah, the ss bolts at the corners sounds like a good idea, use wing nuts for easy removal.
 
a piece of angle welded to each side with the lip of the angle overhanging the shelf. Determine dimension of angle by width of cutting board.
then just slide board in and out from the rear.

[___________]

no muss no fuss
 
Couldn't you just get one of those anti slip pads and put the cutting board on that? That's what I use on my UDS shelves. Makes for easy sanitary clean up. Besides most of my cutting and prep work isn't done at the smoker. By the way the cart looks great.
 
The stud idea gives me an idea, but sort of in reverse. I'm thinking that I could mount the studs (which in this case will just be bolts sandwiched to the expanded metal) to the cart, and then drill receiving holes into the back side of the board, but not all the way through. Then the board will slip onto the studs, but there won't be any holes in the top of the board.

I thought about the magnet idea too, I just didn't know how well they'd hold.

Thanks for the tips!
 
The stud idea gives me an idea, but sort of in reverse. I'm thinking that I could mount the studs (which in this case will just be bolts sandwiched to the expanded metal) to the cart, and then drill receiving holes into the back side of the board, but not all the way through. Then the board will slip onto the studs, but there won't be any holes in the top of the board.

I thought about the magnet idea too, I just didn't know how well they'd hold.

Thanks for the tips!

When I worked in a deli, we had a work table that used removable boards. They used studs at the four corners of each board. The holes in the boards were elongated to make sure they lined up with the studs from different tables. I don't remember any issues with the studs coming all the way through the board, mainly due to the fact the holes were on the corners of the board and not in an area that got a lot of use.

We also had to be careful when washing the boards in the commercial dishwasher, due to the high temperature of the water. They would tend to warp just a little bit if we ran them for too long. But I doubt you would have any issue with this.
 
I second the non skid pad. I bet with all the contact points from the expanded metal, you would get a great grip. Course i am a k.i.s.s. kinda guy.

Paul
 
Back
Top