I am building a new UDS

cmwr · Feb 11, 2014

I have been beating myself up internally for days about what kind of drum to use. I finally decided I am just gonna make another one out of a standard drum and be done with all the mental state I am in...:icon_smile_tongue:

I found a source of a bunch of drums that are rust free and clean as can be for $5 a drum!! But the lids have already been removed professionally by some sort of industrial drum opener and are gone. Will the lid from my open drum "franken" UDS fit these or is a closed drum and an open drum different sizes? I prefer a flat lid but don't know what to do for a lid.

Few other questions.

1: for dual racks, how do you guys remove the bottom rack without interference with the top rack supporting bolts?

2: This UDS is gonna have a heat diffuser. Is it better to support the heat diffuser a few inches above the basket with supports or can you just lay the diffuser right on top of your charcoal basket?

3: Does a diffuser need to be thin gauge steel with holes all over it (cookie sheet) or would it be better to use thicker steel like an old disc blade with no holes in it? (wouldn't the thicker steel absorb the heat and radiate it upwards?)

4: Where are you all getting those BBQ thermometers that are permanently mounted in the sides of your drums (The analog style with the different colors and the big dial)? I wanna go with a style like that that I don't have to remove and bring in everytime I am done like my current digital one that just hangs in the side of the drum.

5: last question...Where is everyone finding all the cool high temp paint in all these cool colors? All I can find around here is flat black BBQ paint.

N8man · Feb 11, 2014

answers in red...

cmwr said:
I have been beating myself up internally for days about what kind of drum to use. I finally decided I am just gonna make another one out of a standard drum and be done with all the mental state I am in...:icon_smile_tongue:

I found a source of a bunch of drums that are rust free and clean as can be for $5 a drum!! But the lids have already been removed professionally by some sort of industrial drum opener and are gone. Will the lid from my open drum "franken" UDS fit these or is a closed drum and an open drum different sizes? I prefer a flat lid but don't know what to do for a lid.

I think they are different in diameter.....

Few other questions.

1: for dual racks, how do you guys remove the bottom rack without interference with the top rack supporting bolts?

I used threaded rod to make legs for the racks, so that the racks are stack-able...

2: This UDS is gonna have a heat diffuser. Is it better to support the heat diffuser a few inches above the basket with supports or can you just lay the diffuser right on top of your charcoal basket?

the few times I used a diffuser I had it suspended a few inches above,,

3: Does a diffuser need to be thin gauge steel with holes all over it (cookie sheet) or would it be better to use thicker steel like an old disc blade with no holes in it? (wouldn't the thicker steel absorb the heat and radiate it upwards?)

I used an old disc blade, be aware that your fuel use will increase

4: Where are you all getting those BBQ thermometers that are permanently mounted in the sides of your drums (The analog style with the different colors and the big dial)? I wanna go with a style like that that I don't have to remove and bring in everytime I am done like my current digital one that just hangs in the side of the drum.

I bought mine from fellow brethren Spicewine....

5: last question...Where is everyone finding all the cool high temp paint in all these cool colors? All I can find around here is flat black BBQ paint.

can't help you there, mine's flat black...

Fwismoker · Feb 11, 2014

cmwr said:
I have been beating myself up internally for days about what kind of drum to use. I finally decided I am just gonna make another one out of a standard drum and be done with all the mental state I am in...:icon_smile_tongue:

I found a source of a bunch of drums that are rust free and clean as can be for $5 a drum!! But the lids have already been removed professionally by some sort of industrial drum opener and are gone. Will the lid from my open drum "franken" UDS fit these or is a closed drum and an open drum different sizes? I prefer a flat lid but don't know what to do for a lid.

Few other questions.

1: for dual racks, how do you guys remove the bottom rack without interference with the top rack supporting bolts?

2: This UDS is gonna have a heat diffuser. Is it better to support the heat diffuser a few inches above the basket with supports or can you just lay the diffuser right on top of your charcoal basket?

3: Does a diffuser need to be thin gauge steel with holes all over it (cookie sheet) or would it be better to use thicker steel like an old disc blade with no holes in it? (wouldn't the thicker steel absorb the heat and radiate it upwards?)

4: Where are you all getting those BBQ thermometers that are permanently mounted in the sides of your drums (The analog style with the different colors and the big dial)? I wanna go with a style like that that I don't have to remove and bring in everytime I am done like my current digital one that just hangs in the side of the drum.

5: last question...Where is everyone finding all the cool high temp paint in all these cool colors? All I can find around here is flat black BBQ paint.

1) I rarely use a second level but when i do i don't pull the grate I just pull the food.

2) Put the duffuser maybe 5-10" above the basket so you have the ability to over stack your basket when you need to for long cooks. Also it's nice having it above your basket if you need to put a drip pan on it for au jus...it's good to have some distance between the basket and pan so liquids don't fry quickly.

3) I like a simple pizza pan with some good holes drilled into it... maybe 1/2 to 3/4 just so it diffuses some direct heat (blended heat) but still let all the drippings go down to the coals.

4) Can't go wrong with River Country, they are accurate, fairly inexpensive and can easily calibrate them.

5) Auto parts stores...high heat engine paints

Monty1204 · Feb 11, 2014

Hey,
Not really sure about the lid
1.as for pulling the second rack I just tilt it a bit so that it clears the bolts but not enough so that my meet falls off :icon_blush:
2.-3. diffuser sets on my charcoal basket. I use a pizza pan with holes in it, not sure if the thickness of the metal used will make a difference.
4.I got my therm from Amazon but you can find good deals everywhere online
5. Paint I got from my auto parts store is called engine enamel. I figured if it was good enough for an engine its good enough for my drum.
Hope that helps bud
Good luck and have fun building that UDS

cmwr · Feb 11, 2014

N8man said:
answers in red...

Does the fuel increase with a thicker diffuser or ANY diffuser and why?

I like that rack setup although I got to admit it looks like it may be kinda awkward removing big chunks of meat from the lower racks as you have to slide it out instead of lift it straight up. So I take it you have one set of bolts down lower that holds the entire stack? Is it solid or kinda wobbly?

cmwr · Feb 11, 2014

Fwismoker said:
1) I rarely use a second level but when i do i don't pull the grate I just pull the food.

2) Put the duffuser maybe 5-10" above the basket so you have the ability to over stack your basket when you need to for long cooks. Also it's nice having it above your basket if you need to put a drip pan on it for au jus...it's good to have some distance between the basket and pan so liquids don't fry quickly.

3) I like a simple pizza pan with some good holes drilled into it... maybe 1/2 to 3/4 just so it diffuses some direct heat (blended heat) but still let all the drippings go down to the coals.

4) Can't go wrong with River Country, they are accurate, fairly inexpensive and can easily calibrate them.

5) Auto parts stores...high heat engine paints

I agree with you on not removing the entire grate. I was wondering on extended smokes and adding fresh meat often and having to add more wood chunks. But I suppose even doing that a diffuser would be in the way as well.

Fwismoker · Feb 11, 2014

Don't worry with adding smoking wood on long smokes. If you know you're gonna have a long smoke then just overload the basket with charcoal and smoking chunks. The times you don't see TBS are the times you have the best smoke.

bbqgeekess · Feb 11, 2014

I'd keep the UDS black.. stuff runs down the sides and will show up more on other colors I presume.

bbqgeekess · Feb 11, 2014

Fwismoker said:
The times you don't see TBS are the times you have the best smoke.

Can you explain this, I always thought I wanted thin blue smoke.

N8man · Feb 11, 2014

I've only used the plow blade a few times, no point of reference regarding
thinner metal....I soon discarded the diffuser altogether....saw no need for it...

each rack is separate and stands upon the one below...pull one rack up and off to access the lower, etc....

for the very bottom rack there are three horizontal eye bolts
to sit upon attached to the side of the drum, and yes the entire rack system is very sturdy, I've had eighty pounds total of shoulders cooking, forty pounds per, on the two upper racks...

click these for further info....

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=109339

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=167299

cmwr said:
Does the fuel increase with a thicker diffuser or ANY diffuser and why?

I like that rack setup although I got to admit it looks like it may be kinda awkward removing big chunks of meat from the lower racks as you have to slide it out instead of lift it straight up. So I take it you have one set of bolts down lower that holds the entire stack? Is it solid or kinda wobbly?

bbqgeekess · Feb 11, 2014

cmwr said:
1: for dual racks, how do you guys remove the bottom rack without interference with the top rack supporting bolts?

2: This UDS is gonna have a heat diffuser. Is it better to support the heat diffuser a few inches above the basket with supports or can you just lay the diffuser right on top of your charcoal basket?

When I made my UDS, I put the lower cooking grate low enough for the fire basket to sit on it, so I could also use my UDS as a grill. However the fire basket I made is only 6 inches tall. I also use this lower cooking grate to sit the diffuser on when smoking stuff on the upper grate.

Fwismoker · Feb 11, 2014

bbqgeekess said:
Can you explain this, I always thought I wanted thin blue smoke.

Yep sure can.

Basically TBS are small smoke particles and the times you barely see anything doesn't mean you're not smoking it just means you have a great clean fire going.

People that smoke with offsets will tell you that smoke that's barely visible is the best and tastiest smoke.

TBS is all good but the thinner the better and the real thin stuff you can barely see.

cmwr · Feb 11, 2014

Fwismoker said:
Yep sure can.

Basically TBS are small smoke particles and the times you barely see anything doesn't mean you're not smoking it just means you have a great clean fire going.

People that smoke with offsets will tell you that smoke that's barely visible is the best and tastiest smoke.

TBS is all good but the thinner the better and the real thin stuff you can barely see.

interesting I always thought when the smoke wasn't rolling out very much anymore that meant you about used up your wood chunks although there's always a piece of wood charcoal left in the basket it seems. And as far as my fire basket goes I have one built a little different than what most of you all have. Mine is made out of old hog panels floor grading and it's folded into a square box that's over 12 inches high on the sides. I can get 1 1/2 big bags of kingsford in it without it overflowing.

Shagdog · Feb 11, 2014

Looks like most of your questions have been answered... Here's a couple new answers -

I did 3 racks. The bottom one is held in by 3 2" SS bolts with lock washers.

For the upper 2, I used 2 - 2" bolts, and 1 1" bolt with a wing nut. With the smaller bolts, you can carefully remove each of the top racks without taking off any bolts. Just be aware of where you put your thermometer, it may hamper grate removal.

I made a low diffuser that is attached to the FB, so I could use all 3 grates when warm smoking bacon and sausage. It works very well and stabilizes temp excellently. I added a few 3/4 holes, and it seems to hold steady temps throughout. I only use the diffuser when the drum is really loaded though. If I'm just doing a but or brisket I take it out.

N8man · Feb 11, 2014

pic with the two loaded racks....

ebijack · Feb 11, 2014

N8man knows his sniht! I went from bolts thru the sides to carriage bolt legs and I would NOT go back. I have 3 bolts thru the drum at 18 inches up from the bottom for the bottom rack (deflector when required) and 2 grates above that. Easy to lift straight out, no tilting! ( that can be really bad after the chief is really marinated trying to tilt a lot of weight and not drop or roll off the grate. besides the legs let you stand the grate on something while you swap levels.)

cmwr · Feb 11, 2014

Can someone tell me if a closed head steel drum is lighter gauge material than an open head? These barrels I looked at today seemed pretty light when I picked one up. Maybe I am imagining things.

martyleach · Feb 11, 2014

There are so many different manufacturers of drums.... no set answer on the gauge or exact diameter or lid sizes. Gotta check them out individually. I have made 6+ UDS and all the drums have been different.

The point of the diffuser is to:
1. Make sure the heat getting to you Q is all pretty much the same temp, i.e. get rid of the hot spots.
2. Make the heat indirect.
3. Depending on the thickness of your diffuser, it can also keep your temperature stable. Thicker equals more stability but takes just a little longer to heat up. Really doesn't impact fuel usage despite above posts indicating so. Maybe a 3-5 minute longer time to heat up.
I found the diffuser to help out quite a bit in keeping my meat from drying out on the bottom side.

cmwr · Feb 11, 2014

martyleach said:
There are so many different manufacturers of drums.... no set answer on the gauge or exact diameter or lid sizes. Gotta check them out individually. I have made 6+ UDS and all the drums have been different.

The point of the diffuser is to:
1. Make sure the heat getting to you Q is all pretty much the same temp, i.e. get rid of the hot spots.
2. Make the heat indirect.
3. Depending on the thickness of your diffuser, it can also keep your temperature stable. Thicker equals more stability but takes just a little longer to heat up. Really doesn't impact fuel usage despite above posts indicating so. Maybe a 3-5 minute longer time to heat up.
I found the diffuser to help out quite a bit in keeping my meat from drying out on the bottom side.

I would like to use an old disc blade for a diffuser just cause I feel it would really hold heat compared to a sheetmetal one but I tried in the past to drill one and had no luck steel tempered too hard. Can a solid diffuser do the job or do you really need it to be swiss cheesed?

Fwismoker · Feb 11, 2014

cmwr said:
I would like to use an old disc blade for a diffuser just cause I feel it would really hold heat compared to a sheetmetal one but I tried in the past to drill one and had no luck steel tempered too hard. Can a solid diffuser do the job or do you really need it to be swiss cheesed?

UDS's are so air tight there is no need to have a thermal mass to hold heat....also will probably hurt your fuel efficiency. UDS hold heat like a rock. IMO using something to block all the drippings you might as well a WSM.

I am building a new UDS

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