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Only time i use my ring is when i'm traveling.

If you remove the lid gasket, a locking ring doesn't help much anyhow.
 
The current drum has been slammed Norco.
I found new canola oil drums with this clamp for 30 Bucks today on CL.

Just purchased a Pooper Scooper.
Not as cool as the Thirdeye model but it does work well.
I have read the entire thread three times and never saw this style of clamp mentioned. Hence the question. :)

Weiser
 
The current drum has been slammed Norco.
I found new canola oil drums with this clamp for 30 Bucks today on CL.

Just purchased a Pooper Scooper.
Not as cool as the Thirdeye model but it does work well.
I have read the entire thread three times and never saw this style of clamp mentioned. Hence the question. :)

Weiser

Always good to bring stuff up. Wish I had such a clamp for my first one. I welded a Harbor Freight vice grip clamp to the threaded ring that came with mine (like the one Thirdeye/DR KY posted recently). Works good but clap ring would be the ticket.
 
I have 2 with that clamp on it... Im going to try the first for a bottom clean out. im giving it to someone else to see if it works!
 
Just brought my new drum home tonight...after reading thru all of this thred the past few days...I can't wait to start putting it all together....plan on the big burnout tomorrow.
 
Just brought my new drum home tonight...after reading thru all of this thred the past few days...I can't wait to start putting it all together....plan on the big burnout tomorrow.

Is it a "New" drum or refubished/recycled?
 
That style of clamp on the bottom would be a real PIA to
remove Beerwolf. You would have to turn the drum on its side, wouldn't you?
I have the clamp that takes a screw on the bottom of mine (thanks Norco)
but have only used it once. Haven't needed to since I bought the Pooper Scooper.

Weiser

I have 2 with that clamp on it... Im going to try the first for a bottom clean out. im giving it to someone else to see if it works!
 
That style of clamp on the bottom would be a real PIA to
remove Beerwolf. You would have to turn the drum on its side, wouldn't you?
I have the clamp that takes a screw on the bottom of mine (thanks Norco)
but have only used it once. Haven't needed to since I bought the Pooper Scooper.

Weiser

Well... two things come to mind... either I can make it more convenient... OR someone wont mind the minor inconvenience on a FREE UDS... OR ill tack it in place and make a third eye device
 
Has anyone tried one of these?
They lock down tight. I would think that with the addition of a knob
that it may work pretty well.


Weiser


They gave me two of those when I got my drums, I asked for the other type of locking ring, much simpler. Heres a pic.
lockingring.jpg
 
If you remove the lid gasket, a locking ring doesn't help much anyhow.


Just glue in some 5/8s fireplace gasket. Worked great one mine. Seals it perfectly.

ps: I do not use that sealing gasket on the lid, my UDS is a two piece model where the cooking chamber detaches from the firebox. Thats where the seal lives.
 
Finally back and with good news! I was able to score a drum finally and it actually ended up being 3 drums for free! So now the hardware hunt begins and I need to reread through the thread so I get it right the first time. Then I can build the other two!
So when do I get my "I read this whole damn forum" t-shirt? Just kidding! This sight is great! Thank you all again for sharing! Hopefully before the month is over I will be able to add some pron!
 
I've decided to dive into the competitive scene this year. I have not been able to decide on what type of "bigger" smoker to buy so I'm just going to create two more UDS's and see how that works.

Anyone here compete on a UDS?


Also, I have an offset stick burner and I was wondering would the basket design I used for my UDS ( via Norco's pictoral) work in the offset firebox and hold a similar steady temp?

I would like to use my offset as well, but that would require a trailer. I like the idea of tossing 3 drums in the bed of the truck and moving out.
 
Finished reading, barrels are in the back of my truck (veggie oil - no liner), a few more errands and should be able to build (and test :-D) this weekend.

Alas it took 2 weeks for me to finish the thread, and I forgot some points.

1) dolly wheels - any problems with bolting them to the barrel - or should I just wait and get a barrel dolly

2) I think I have seen expanded steel #9x3/4 used for the walls and bottom of the basket - any problems with using it as the cooking grate as well?

--
I plan on using the liberated ash tray from the wal-mart grill (I may pop some vent holes in the side of it. Will use 3 or 4 3/4" pipe nipples (or whatever the really short ones are called), with on 3/4 valve. Basket will be a roll made of a 12"x48" strip of #9x3/4 expanded mesh (should be aprox 14" in diameter), with the bottom mounted at about 3 inches. Bottom of basket and grate are yet to be determined (see above).

I have not given thought to extras such as handles, but it will have a bottle opener.
--
Oh, and Hi - great forum. I think I enjoyed reading about ABT's, Armadillo Eggs, Chicken lollipops, and boink balls almost as much as the UDS.
 
No problem using the expanded 3/4" for the grate,
I had thought about it but went with a replacement Weber instead.
It was cheaper and plated too.

If you find a deal on dollies, let us know, HF no-longer carries them.

Weiser




Finished reading, barrels are in the back of my truck (veggie oil - no liner), a few more errands and should be able to build (and test :-D) this weekend.

Alas it took 2 weeks for me to finish the thread, and I forgot some points.

1) dolly wheels - any problems with bolting them to the barrel - or should I just wait and get a barrel dolly

2) I think I have seen expanded steel #9x3/4 used for the walls and bottom of the basket - any problems with using it as the cooking grate as well?

--
I plan on using the liberated ash tray from the wal-mart grill (I may pop some vent holes in the side of it. Will use 3 or 4 3/4" pipe nipples (or whatever the really short ones are called), with on 3/4 valve. Basket will be a roll made of a 12"x48" strip of #9x3/4 expanded mesh (should be aprox 14" in diameter), with the bottom mounted at about 3 inches. Bottom of basket and grate are yet to be determined (see above).

I have not given thought to extras such as handles, but it will have a bottle opener.
--
Oh, and Hi - great forum. I think I enjoyed reading about ABT's, Armadillo Eggs, Chicken lollipops, and boink balls almost as much as the UDS.
 
1) dolly wheels - any problems with bolting them to the barrel - or should I just wait and get a barrel dolly

2) I think I have seen expanded steel #9x3/4 used for the walls and bottom of the basket - any problems with using it as the cooking grate as well?

I have not given thought to extras such as handles, but it will have a bottle opener.
--
Oh, and Hi - great forum. I think I enjoyed reading about ABT's, Armadillo Eggs, Chicken lollipops, and boink balls almost as much as the UDS.


I wouldn't bolt wheels to bottom. Eventually you will have to clean grease/sludge out and the bolts will hinder cleaning.

Handles help if moving drum and I bungee my weber lid to them for transport.

Expanded metal is good for grate but is more expensive than replacement grates. Plus I spin my grates sometimes and exp... would be more difficult.

Gotta read more, Some "Boink" with their Balls and lts make "Moink" (Moo + Oink) Balls.:biggrin:
 
Norco, were you the guy that used to spin the plates
on the Ed Sullivan Show?:mrgreen:

Weiser
 
Don't ever want to be thought of as a know it all, just try to share my trials/tribulations. Always a 100 ways to do the same thing. Came here not knowing much about cooking absorbed some knowledge, offer up what I can.
 
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