Corrugated Aluminum Awning Ideas/Photos Needed

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javahog2002

is one Smokin' Farker
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I am planning to build a freestanding awning up against my house to cover the pits and provide some storage shelves.

Details:

  • Sloped Corrugated Roof (reusing scraps in picture)
  • 4ft X 12 ft roof (approx)
  • 2X4 Frame - Pine
  • 4X4 legs - Pressure treated
  • All lumber stained
  • Cover two pits
  • Shelves in middle for charcoal, WSM Mini, ...
  • Wired for lights above each pit and outlets
All suggestions, ideas and photos of your bbq area are welcomed.





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I am looking now for some of that corrugated tin roofing (old barn roofing), but I want to mount it along my wooden fence with my neighbor so I dont burn down the fence incase something gets out of hand....I dont want the new shiney stuff, but old discolored, rusted in spots kind, to make it rustic...then mount old farm and ranch items onto it...
 
I don't know if you can seal it to the wall so I think it best to make it free standing and then set it against the wall.
 
TulareJohn said:
I am looking now for some of that corrugated tin roofing (old barn roofing), but I want to mount it along my wooden fence with my neighbor so I dont burn down the fence incase something gets out of hand....I dont want the new shiney stuff, but old discolored, rusted in spots kind, to make it rustic...then mount old farm and ranch items onto it...
Click to expand...


I got my old scraps from a friend. He remodeled the exterior of his hanger at our local airport.
 
I'm looking to do the same thing in the spring at the back of my new garage, a bit larger though at 8' deep. Yours will be done long before mine even gets started, as I'm at least 4 months from construction, so no real help for you. There is corrugated flashing out there to use at the brick wall to keep any water from getting underneath and I think yours looks to be a pretty simple build.

Here is a process for taking some new, shiny panels and making them look more rustic/rusty.

http://voices.yahoo.com/how-rust-corrugated-tin-roof-panel-11433802.html

Will be giving this a try for the wall behind the cooker.
 
I have been thinking of building something similar for my grills.
There is a thread with several pages of designs and builds.
You are only limited by your budget.
A simple design would be 3 4 by 4 centered posts,6'OC, with 3@4' "T" top and 6@ 3' "Y" kickers.
I would slope about 2/12, drain to the back. You could use 3@12' 2 by 4 for per lings.

You don't need shelves. Just pick yourself up an old gasser.
Hope this helps,
jon
 
This is the "before" pic of what I'm using now for a shelter, unfortunately I don't have any recent pics of what it looks like now. Basically, I took the longer front legs that are shown in the pic, moved them to the back and all the way to the outside, and got 2 longer 4x4's and put them towards the front, all the way to the outside as well, and added a couple of the angle braces for stability. I'd say the overall dimensions of the roof is probably 6' wide, and 5' deep, and with the new configuration, the upper most part of the roof is probably at 7'.
 

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I'd just attach it to the brick wall below the gutter line. You shouldn't have any issues with leaking due to the overhang and gutter above. With that said 4' is really shallow and if you don't put a gutter on the new roof the splash from the runoff is going to wet most of your area. I'd go 8' out and get enough depth to fit the pits plus a lawnchair and a cooler out of the elements. :grin:

cookshed.jpg
 
HankB said:
I don't know if you can seal it to the wall so I think it best to make it free standing and then set it against the wall.
Click to expand...

In my case that I have planned, it will be "nailed" to the existing wooden fence, on my side, to make a decorative display and heat shield...
 
No way I'd send water back towards the house UNLESS you could mount a gutter against the brick and tie into the existing downspout.

I drew this...

-4' x 12' with 4x4 posts based on the existing 4' tin you have.
-24"x60" 1/2" plywood storage with a fold down door for the Weber to rest on.
-not to scale but close :biggrin1:

COOKSHACK-1.jpg
 
jonboy said:
I have been thinking of building something similar for my grills.
There is a thread with several pages of designs and builds.
You are only limited by your budget.
A simple design would be 3 4 by 4 centered posts,6'OC, with 3@4' "T" top and 6@ 3' "Y" kickers.
I would slope about 2/12, drain to the back. You could use 3@12' 2 by 4 for per lings.

You don't need shelves. Just pick yourself up an old gasser.
Hope this helps,
jon
Click to expand...

Thanks.

Explain the following:

3@4' "T" top

6@ 3' "Y" kickers.

per lings


Thanks.
 
javahog2002 said:
Thanks.

Explain the following:

3@4' "T" top

6@ 3' "Y" kickers.

per lings


Thanks.
Click to expand...

I think he's saying put a 4x4 in the ground, put a 2x10 (or whatever) on top to make a "T", and then add angled supports from the 2x10 back down to the post (a "Y"). I'm guessing per lings is perlins, which would run the opposite direction of your "T's" and support the metal roof.

I would also NOT slope the roof towards the house. That's asking for foundation issues.
 
[quoteI would also NOT slope the roof towards the house][/quote]

I agree. I read too fast and missed the part about building against the house and picked up second post on building by fence.:oops::oops:

I probably should edit for snow loads also. I'm guessing you have more snow than we get in KY.

Sorry for confusion,
jon
 
I started out with that idea in mind last year. It grew and grew. Finally I built a 18' X 18' cover over part of my patio. I can smoke under it, and keep my smokers and firewood dry too. Even got a picnic table under it.

If there's anything better than having dry wood, it's being able to smoke when you want to, not when the weather lets you.
 
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