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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, equipment and outdoor cookin' . ** Other cooking techniques are welcomed for when your cookin' in the kitchen. Post your hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures, but stay on topic and watch for that hijacking.


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Old 08-02-2011, 12:44 PM   #8371
Carbon
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Join Date: 08-24-08
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soapy_junk View Post
that is the orig / ideal plan.. but what size hole is ideal for threading in the nipple?
I don't think it's important for the nipple to be able to 'thread' itself into the drum. With the larger diameter pipes you're working with I don't think you'll be able to properly thread the nipple because the drum is curved and more pronounced the larger you go.
If you're using a locknut it doesn't matter. The hole should be just large enough for the nipple to slip through. Just make sure to use an elbow that's threaded on the inside on both ends.
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Old 08-02-2011, 12:47 PM   #8372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbon View Post
I don't think it's important for the nipple to be able to 'thread' itself into the drum. With the larger diameter pipes you're working with I don't think you'll be able to properly thread the nipple because the drum is curved and more pronounced the larger you go.
If you're using a locknut it doesn't matter. The hole should be just large enough for the nipple to slip through. Just make sure to use an elbow that's threaded on the inside on both ends.
that makes sense.. i didn't think of it that way.. if they say the OD is 1.9.. im guessing a 2" hole saw?... and i planned on having a support on the virticle pipe exension so that should help too..

also.. are people using the 'close' nipple where it is really short and fully threded.. or are like a 3" nipple where the middle has no thread

thanks
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Old 08-02-2011, 12:49 PM   #8373
chico4missions
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Join Date: 02-07-11
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Default Vikings UDS

Again, another build for a coworker (I'm not a Vikings fan) ... I also did the Raiders one a while back. Used Engine Enamel (500 degrees)





Needless to say I'm happy the LOCKOUT is over!!!
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Old 08-02-2011, 12:57 PM   #8374
Carbon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soapy_junk View Post
that makes sense.. i didn't think of it that way.. if they say the OD is 1.9.. im guessing a 2" hole saw?... and i planned on having a support on the virticle pipe exension so that should help too..

also.. are people using the 'close' nipple where it is really short and fully threded.. or are like a 3" nipple where the middle has no thread

thanks
Use the shortest nipple you can find. You may have to use a spacer of some kind to take up some slack if unable to tighten the nut all the way in.

A 2" hole should work but I'm not so sure about drilling a hole that large through a thin curved surface. The bit may start wandering and you may end up with a not so clean, bigger hole which you don't want.
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Old 08-02-2011, 01:00 PM   #8375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbon View Post
A 2" hole should work but I'm not so sure about drilling a hole that large through a thin curved surface. The bit may start wandering and you may end up with a not so clean, bigger hole which you don't want.
any ideas then?
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Old 08-02-2011, 01:36 PM   #8376
Carbon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soapy_junk View Post
any ideas then?
If I were doing this to my drum I'd use what I already have on hand, tool wise, and probably do this:

I would first trace an outline on the drum around the 1.5" nipple. Then I would drill a 3/4" hole in the middle. Then I would make multiple straight cuts with a zigsaw from the hole up to the outline like slicing a pie. I would then completely bend each tab back into the drum to form a round hole. The more slices you make and bend back the cleaner the hole will look.
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Old 08-02-2011, 01:48 PM   #8377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbon View Post
If I were doing this to my drum I'd use what I already have on hand, tool wise, and probably do this:

I would first trace an outline on the drum around the 1.5" nipple. Then I would drill a 3/4" hole in the middle. Then I would make multiple straight cuts with a zigsaw from the hole up to the outline like slicing a pie. I would then completely bend each tab back into the drum to form a round hole. The more slices you make and bend back the cleaner the hole will look.
i like that.. just have to make sure the nipple is long enought to have thread outside for the elbow and inside for a locknut
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Old 08-02-2011, 01:52 PM   #8378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soapy_junk View Post
i like that.. just have to make sure the nipple is long enought to have thread outside for the elbow and inside for a locknut
Chances are, the nipple will still be too long even with the shortest one you can find.
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Old 08-02-2011, 06:21 PM   #8379
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Quote:
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I really would not worry about the material on your grate bolts. You would be cremating your meat before they got hot enough to cause any problems. They will get coated in creosote anyway. You will never see them again if you put acorn nuts on them.

I prefer a smoke stack to prevent water from running into the it during a rain. Unlike a domed Weber lid - the entire lid of a barrel is lipped to collect water. That said, the flat lid will help keep your sauce warm.

Do care about what your nipples are made of - They will rust and make it impossible to remove the caps. Unless you are religious with oiling them - just use brass.

As for cleaning - use an ash pan. It is practically eliminates cleaning the bottom of the uds.
Actually I didn't even think of keeping the sauce warm that is a great idea. I live in Atlanta so we have walk out basements so my deck is about 12' high and I put flagstone under 1/2 of that which was a flat area then put the corragated metal panels under the bottom of the deck to act as a roof so I actually keep my lawn mower and other stuff under there as its totally dry. My barrel will be stored under there and since the roof is metal could actually drag the barrel out of the rain in the event it started to rain and keep smoking under the deck. Not using the nipples, doing the ball valve with a 2' extension because of my back, using round magnets that have a hook on them for the other 2 intake holes, 1 1/8 inch round magnets from Harbor Freight so I don't have to peel the flat ones off just need gloves to pull them off grabbing the hook, they were like 2.50 for 4.

Mike had replied buy a 2" hole saw but I have a step bit set so can easily do the other 5 holes with what I have.

Thanks to you and Mike for your suggestions, probably will go the weber route down the road but gonna start with the original design and make that decision later after I get some experience cooking.
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Old 08-02-2011, 06:59 PM   #8380
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After reading so many good things about the UDS, I decided to go ahead and build one. I guess one concern that I have is most of the food I am seeing produced by the UDS looks very dry. I also wonder how smokey the flavor is. I know it's a smoker and that's what it's supposed to do, but could some folks post more pictures of things that really cam out good. This might have already been asked, but with 500+ pages I might have missed it.

Also, can someone recomend a good but cheap thermometer?

Thanks ya'll.

Here are a couple of pics my progress....

I still need to add my basket, thermometer, and repaint it. It's been fun so far!
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Old 08-02-2011, 07:13 PM   #8381
traderbbc
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On the zinc issue and as I had stated I had to use zinc bolts for the charcoal basket due to the lousy selection from hd and will soak with vinegar and hit them with a torch. As you see one of the replies basically said you would have to disintegrate your food before its a problem. After reading this entire thread going back and forth on that issue found something interesting in my research. Decided not to go the Weber route for now, was looking at the wally world uniflame 22.5 grill for 40 bucks to use the lid and some other parts, clicked on the parts list. I could not even guess how many of these they sell but lets assume its a big number. The charcoal grate is zinc coated, not sure if its different zinc than a bolt is coated with but it says zinc coated. I assume if it was harmful some law firm would have been more than happy to sue them. Might be totally off base as I am a newbie but it is interesting food for thought. u guys and gals are great, gonna get mine done by end of weekend and get it dirty.
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:08 PM   #8382
Seachaser
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Academy Sports has 3" and 2" thermometers for $10 each. Picked up 3 today.

I have looked at a lot of commercial stuff, and a lot of it looks like plated materials in the cooking area.
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:29 PM   #8383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seachaser View Post
Academy Sports has 3" and 2" thermometers for $10 each. Picked up 3 today.

I have looked at a lot of commercial stuff, and a lot of it looks like plated materials in the cooking area.
Thanks man! I will be heading there tomorrow.
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Old 08-02-2011, 10:12 PM   #8384
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DRUMBUM:
As long as you cook the food right it will come out good, I have only done 2 cooks on my UDS and both were very good. Here are a couple of pics.

Here is my first pork butt, ran at a steady 250 deg. for 10hrs. Came out nice and moist, with good bark.


Here are some chicken thighs I did Sunday, also very moist and yummy. You can see all the smokey goodness they had.



This is a pork tender loin I did on my OTS for a comparison.


Once you get yours done and start cooking on it you will wish you had found out about them sooner. I know I did.
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:49 AM   #8385
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Oh yeah!!! That looks awesome!!! When cooking on the UDS how frequently are ya'll adding wood for smoking if any?
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