Clueless newbie questions, OK Joe Highlander mod questions

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HDCTX

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I've never cooked a decent brisket in my life, and the only smoker I ever owned was a tiny electric Brinkman more than forty years ago.
I just joined this forum yesterday, so be kind. LOL
I purchased a new Highland, bought a few mod parts, and want to assemble and season it my the end of the weekend, and I have a few questions.
1. I bought some nomex gasket tape and some high temp sealant.
The fire box on this thing is in two parts, and bolts to the cook chamber. The videos I've seen say to use the tape around the door openings, and use the sealant on all the through bolts and between the fire box and the cook chamber. The sealant is only rated for 650, and the nomex for 1,000. Would it be better to use the nomex tape to close the gap between the fire box and cooking chamber, or will I create more problems from metal deflection around the tape?
I got toggle clamps for the cook chamber. Some recommend placing them near the bottom of the door, and some suggest the middle. Anyone have a reason for a preference?
I also ordered stainless nuts and bolts for the firebox, mainly because I hear it will wear out much sooner than the cook chamber, and I want to make replacement easier.
I also ordered a baffle plate, smoke stack extension (to the grate), and a charcoal basket from Island Outdoor. If you have any tips on installing those parts I'm all ears.
I look forward to any and all feedback.
 
All I did on my OK Joe was used high temp silicone in between the fire box and cook chamber. I didnt put any on the bolts or bolt holes. I also put the silicone around the stack when I slid it into the cook chamber. I did use the high temp tape around the fire box and cook chamber. I never did install latches because after the high temp tape it sealed it up nice. For seasoning I just sprayed pam inside every where fire box included. Let it run about 5-6 hours and your ready to cook.
 
An OJ Highland was my first stick burner, and after driving myself crazy thinking that I had to have the darned thing airtight, I joined this forum and discovered otherwise. I also ordered the fire basket, but if you plan to burn sticks (which you should), then it really isn't necessary. I used the high temp silicone around the firebox and it held up well. My problem was the gasket around the doors and firebox, it would almost always peel away after a couple of cooks. I did rig a diffuser of sorts, I just bought several of the flavorizer type bars used over gas burners and placed them along the cook chamber under the cook grates and they worked well.
 
Thanks. I saw in one of the videos on the Highland a guy says he thinks the adhesive separates because the paint peels, not the adhesive. He suggested using a wire when to remove the paint where you want the tape to stick.
On the wood, are sticks readily available in the short lengths I need, or do I have to cut my own down with a chop saw?
Thanks for the tips.
 
I thought I needed to stop leaks because they interfere with the suction of the smoke going up the flue pulling air into the firebox, but most if the comments I see are people worried about heat loss. Which is it?
 
I have a very similar smoker:
https://imgur.com/dDgKKAM

I did pretty much what everyone else mentioned, high temp sealant between firebox and smoke chamber and chimney, gasket around smoke chamber and firebox lids, charcoal box, and a tel-true temp gauge at both ends of the smoke chamber. I also added a diffuser with tuning plates.

The firebox gasket (rope like stuff) pulled off after a few cooks, and really wasn't needed IMO. I had some of those clamps to keep the lid pressed firmly closed, but with the gasket there was no smoke loss so I did not install them. As far as the diffuser and tuning plates, I never used my smoker without them so I have no idea if they are work the price or not. I will say that I get pretty close temps when using brick/lump charcoal on both ends of the smoke chamber. When cooking with wood, there is usually a 50-100* temp difference on both ends.
 
I have a OK Joe Highland as well. I did not install any gaskets, or silicone of any sort. I added a baffle and tuning plates, thanks to some help from robert-r.

I have only burned small splits in mine, so far, and what DECENT BBQ states, is my experience as well. I run it with the fire box door wide open and the smoke stack wide open. It takes a lot of attention, but produces some awesome Q.

I found a place that sells 1/2 length splits that fit the fire box nicely. I sometimes split them down, even smaller, to fine tune the temp. It's not too difficult to maintain acceptable smoking temps with this cooker, just need to be paying attention and not stray too far from to cooker, for too long.
 
ok, so I am new and wanted to test out the posting of pics, I hope i'm not doing something wrong,

cmmdvxdEe3UyWHXAA
 
JasonS said:
I have a OK Joe Highland as well. I did not install any gaskets, or silicone of any sort. I added a baffle and tuning plates, thanks to some help from robert-r.

I have only burned small splits in mine, so far, and what DECENT BBQ states, is my experience as well. I run it with the fire box door wide open and the smoke stack wide open. It takes a lot of attention, but produces some awesome Q.

I found a place that sells 1/2 length splits that fit the fire box nicely. I sometimes split them down, even smaller, to fine tune the temp. It's not too difficult to maintain acceptable smoking temps with this cooker, just need to be paying attention and not stray too far from to cooker, for too long.
Click to expand...

This. I buy Hickory wood from Home Depot and split it even smaller with a splitting maul hatchet. Firebox door wide open, exhaust wide open. It takes some practice, but after a while you can gauge how much wood to put on to keep your temps consistent ;)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kingsford-1-cu-ft-BBQ-Hickory-Wood-Logs-100524120/206442494

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HAEI1A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
What kind of temps are you running with the doors wide open?
Is it a temp issue, i.e., you can't hit your smoking temp without doing those things?
Thanx
 
Fire box door open, or closed, doesn't seem do dictate the pit temp. It's the size of the fire you burn more than anything. 275* +/- seems to be the sweet spot for my Highland. I don't live in a cold climate, so that could influence things a bit. I have burned oak and apple, so far, and the oak burns more hot.

These are smallish red oak splits.

27912244678_6bae928c82_c.jpg
 
To be clear, I never even thought about using charcoal. Do you guys turn the rack.in the firebox to raise it and improve airflow? Do.any of you use a fan to feed fresh air to.the firebox? I expected to.put wood in the basket to better control the fire. I was under the impression this unit was pretty good about maintaining temps w/o running with the doors open. I'm sure I will.learn a lot once I fire it up.
 
I don't have a Highland but I like expanded metal grates or expanded metal over the reg grate to Hold small coals better but let Ash fall. I like 3-4" under the grate. if adding expanded to reg grate bolt it on or weld it so doesn't warp as bad or a angle iron framed expanded metal grate. in my experience gasket and lid clamps aren't needed on an offset burning wood. I do start with a chimney of burning charcoal and 1-2 splits.
I don't like exhaust extensions added on as they can hinder airflow- i do like grate level exhaust if made that way - chimney off end of the cook chamber instead of on top - esp with a collector box........
I do like convection plates or tuning plates to even temps out side to side but I have got an Ok Joe Longhorn within 15* end to end with 2 cookie sheets and a water pan under the cooking grate butted up to the firebox.......

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gO1OvHjCiVM
.
.
 
I have a Highland, and I did some of the standard mods to it. It works fine but is very fussy and requires quite a bit of attention.

I made a diffuser out of some scrap 3/8" in the same style as the ones you can order online with a variety of holes gradually larger the further away from the firebox you get.

I also welded the firebox halves together and welded the firebox to the main chamber, silcone will easily achieve the same effect.

I did the grate level smokestack extension mod and took it off after a few cooks (don't bother with this one IMHO)

If I had the chance to get a larger offset with better draw, I'd probably do it, but for now this one does the trick.

Cheers, and happy BBQing!
 
Nice axe, thanks. I need to ask.my lawn guy for a decent size stump to chop on.
 
HDCTX said:
Thanks. I meant the grill level extension, not the stack, sorry.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't bother with this one, it only seemed to negatively impact the draw. If you already have it give it a try and see what you think...
 
Swede said:
I wouldn't bother with this one, it only seemed to negatively impact the draw. If you already have it give it a try and see what you think...
Click to expand...



Could you elaborate on what exactly you found with this that made you remove it? Was the smoke wanting to just exit more from the open firebox door than move through the cooking chamber or wasn't there enough of a draw to keep the fire burning hot?
 
noobieQ said:
Could you elaborate on what exactly you found with this that made you remove it? Was the smoke wanting to just exit more from the open firebox door than move through the cooking chamber or wasn't there enough of a draw to keep the fire burning hot?
Click to expand...

Pointing straight down at the grate can sometimes hurt airflow and cause hotspots, sometimes increasing the end to end temp difference. Some guys have said it caused harsh smoke taste so I would think it decreased airflow where fire smoldered. Some guys say it helps.
I would not use one but if I did I would cut opening diagonally so hole is on side of extension vs straight down.
 
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