UDS mayday...HELP

Beerwolf · Oct 11, 2008

Here I sit Broken hearted......

I am in the midst of building another UDS with the remainder of my "donor pile". I have just realized that the top of my drum is 1/2 to 3/4" out of round. My first thought is to weld in the top strip (down to the grille holder) of my "donor kettle" but Im kind of contemplating

1. Should I cut out the top rim of the barrel before setting in the donor strip?

2. Should I weld it in place, its a pretty loose fit , the kettle will drop all the way to the rim

3. Should I cut the rim off and then notch the side of the barrel and weld it in place?

The UDS never ceases to amaze me... how easy it is to cook with considering how complicated I make the damned assembly.

Please someone share your experience with me.

Bevo · Oct 11, 2008

what about a rubber mallet?

Beerwolf · Oct 11, 2008

Bevo said:
what about a rubber mallet?

To straighten the Drum rim? Its pretty egged, Ive tried to pull it in with a bar clamp but its not holding. I think Im going to precisely set it on its side and sit on it next

Dr_KY · Oct 11, 2008

Wedge a bar into to that is the correct size then heat the drum or work it with a mallet?

Midnight Smoke · Oct 11, 2008

I would try some large wood clamps and slowly tighten and check with tape measure.

thirdeye · Oct 11, 2008

Any unplanned welding can really give you unexpected warp-osis if not careful. This thermal expansion is actually caused by both the welding and cooling process, so I'm wondering if you can't heat opposing areas on the rim with the weed burner to pull it back into round. If your wide spots are at 12 & 6 o'clock, try heating at 3 & 9 o'clock. Steel will typically move in the direction of heat, then return as it cools. A spray bottle of water will speed up the cooling. Just do everything evenly.

Beerwolf · Oct 11, 2008

thirdeye said:
Any unplanned welding can really give you unexpected warp-osis if not careful. This thermal expansion is actually caused by both the welding and cooling process, so I'm wondering if you can't heat opposing areas on the rim with the weed burner to pull it back into round. If your wide spots are at 12 & 6 o'clock, try heating at 3 & 9 o'clock. Steel will typically move in the direction of heat, then return as it cools. A spray bottle of water will speed up the cooling. Just do everything evenly.

Thats gives me a pretty good idea... however, I am handicapped by no weed burner, Im wondering about running some beads in the 3 and 9 oclock areas as you suggest... what woudl Macguyver do?

thirdeye · Oct 11, 2008

I suppose that would work, but a torch would sure allow you to finesse it more. It sometimes takes several "heats" to get something where you want it. Do you have any type of clamp, chain and turnbuckle set-up you could use to help restrain the roundness as it begins to come back to true?

h20loo · Oct 11, 2008

Use a clamp to draw it round. Take it a little tighter and then with a body hammer or light hammer work the barrel where you think it may be under pressure. Its amazing how a hammer helps metal with its memory. BTW- dont dent the barrel with the hammer.

Beerwolf · Oct 11, 2008

Thanks everyone. I have it in fairly CLOSE now, I am burning out as we speak. Hopefully I will be able to do the " fine tweaking" after the burning is done

thirdeye · Oct 11, 2008

Beerwolf said:
Thanks everyone. I have it in fairly CLOSE now, I am burning out as we speak. Hopefully I will be able to do the " fine tweaking" after the burning is done

That's a good idea to wait for the final adjustment just in case the burn causes it to move a hair.

Beerwolf · Oct 12, 2008

One thing I did validate this time was my idea to do my final burn AFTER I had completed Fabrication. It takes far less wood and only one burn to get rid of the paint and gook when you have the vents in place at the bottom of the barrel.

ComputerMike · Oct 12, 2008

Beerwolf said:
One thing I did validate this time was my idea to do my final burn AFTER I had completed Fabrication. It takes far less wood and only one burn to get rid of the paint and gook when you have the vents in place at the bottom of the barrel.

yeah. I drilled all the holes for intakes and grates before the burnout but I didn't install any hardware. It burned very well. Both times.

McClung · Oct 12, 2008

Bet it didn't burn as well as mine did tonight! Pulled off my ribs and for some extremely stupid reason thought that I would just leave the lid off and let the remainder of the charcoal burn off, forgot all about the coating of grease in it, oh well, needed repainting anyhow!

Beerwolf · Oct 13, 2008

McClung said:
Bet it didn't burn as well as mine did tonight! Pulled off my ribs and for some extremely stupid reason thought that I would just leave the lid off and let the remainder of the charcoal burn off, forgot all about the coating of grease in it, oh well, needed repainting anyhow!

NIIIICE.

I had the thing about half full of chord wood and then a little ( gasp) charcoal starter once it got dark and we had a hell of a fire. there is even a dark carbon spot on the bare dirt where the barrel was.

I remember my first Drum during my first cook, I could pull the lid off and have just that happen at 4 hours after I had pulled the turkey off.

UDS mayday...HELP

Beerwolf

Take a breath!

Bevo

Guest

Beerwolf

Take a breath!

Dr_KY

Quintessential Chatty Farker

Midnight Smoke

somebody shut me the fark up.

thirdeye

somebody shut me the fark up.

Beerwolf

Take a breath!

thirdeye

somebody shut me the fark up.

h20loo

is one Smokin' Farker

Beerwolf

Take a breath!

thirdeye

somebody shut me the fark up.

Beerwolf

Take a breath!

ComputerMike

Take a breath!

McClung

Guest

Beerwolf

Take a breath!

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