Ugly Drum Smoker - Page 161

tweek · 02-11-2009, 09:26 PM

"CLEAN 55 GALLON DRUMS WITH LOCKING TOPS. THEY HAD CARAMEL IN A BAG INSIDE OF THE DRUMS SO THEY SMELL GOOD."

I found this ad selling 55 gallon drums. what is the red stuff inside, is that paint? I figure this will fit the bill nicely but just wanted to get a second opinion before spending the time to drive out to this place. The drums are a good deal at 10 bucks, so if anyone is looking for a drum near milwaukee or the fox valley shoot me a PM and I can forward the contact info (or post it here if that is not against the rules).

What exactly is the locking mechanism? (if there is a standard type) will that help or hurt the project.

I have been reading this thread for a month now and getting ready to build my first smoker!

Weiser · 02-11-2009, 09:35 PM

That red crap is the dreaded liner that you have read about.
You have to get rid of that.
Drill the lower holes, fill it with wood and light.
Stand back and admire your fire building skills, while drinking a beer.

It may take several burns and as many beers.

Weiser

MS BBQ · 02-11-2009, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norcoredneck

Why burn? Does it have a liner?

Unfortunately, there was a liner in it.

Threw a tub full of pine cones, pine needles, wood, a match in the drum and grabbed a Tecate....what a site it was.

The wife came out and wondered what the h*** was going on....she thought I'd gone mad by smelling up the neighborhood. She'll get over it.. :)

MS BBQ · 02-11-2009, 10:02 PM

Question about the vent holes in the bottom....

Is there any advantage to using threaded nipples with a cap instead of the conduit plugs like you see on the BDS? or is it just preference?

Also, is there much advantage to putting a ball valve on or just leaving the holes open.

Weiser · 02-11-2009, 10:18 PM

I have learned everything that I know from reading the UDS Bible three times and paying attention.

I like the control that the ball valve offers. Combined with two 3/4" nipples and caps, gives you complete control.
There are several guys here that use magnets over the vents and several others that use the BDS system.
I can't comment on those, only on what I know to work. I'm certain that they all will work!

Weiser

Quote:

Originally Posted by MS BBQ

Question about the vent holes in the bottom....

Is there any advantage to using threaded nipples with a cap instead of the conduit plugs like you see on the BDS? or is it just preference?

Also, is there much advantage to putting a ball valve on or just leaving the holes open.

Dr_KY · 02-12-2009, 02:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MS BBQ

Question about the vent holes in the bottom....

Is there any advantage to using threaded nipples with a cap instead of the conduit plugs like you see on the BDS? or is it just preference?

Also, is there much advantage to putting a ball valve on or just leaving the holes open.

You must have a way of controlling the air flow on one of the intakes be it a magnet, ball valve or flap.

The ball valve is easiest to control- but cost more and sticks out.
The magnet is cheaper - They need to be strong.
Flaps-cheap but need to be made.

As for the threaded nipples it's all up to you, they can be welded in if you fancy it.

I cook with one 3/4 hole open..
to seal it I just stuff with tin foil.

And adjust with the ball valve..

h20loo · 02-12-2009, 05:20 AM

I've tried them all and they all can work. My flavour of the day is just an old speaker magnet over the hole. Actually this has become my favorite mostly because it is free and I have them around the garage.

jcinadr · 02-12-2009, 11:11 AM

I noticed once upon a time pipe bushing were recommended, but I think the idea was ultimately dropped for some reason.

I am curious about the reason as I was planning on using the bushing threaded from the inside (so that the flange would be the inside "nut"), and the 3/4 valve would thread on from the outside.

N8man · 02-12-2009, 11:28 AM

Anything little more than Flush with the inside Diameter of the Drum makes After Cooking cleanup Difficult.

Weiser · 02-12-2009, 11:31 AM

When I built mine I used the 1" nipples without nuts inside.
The threads are nice and tight with a 7/8" hole.
I'm happy with the way it worked out.

Weiser

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcinadr

I noticed once upon a time pipe bushing were recommended, but I think the idea was ultimately dropped for some reason.

I am curious about the reason as I was planning on using the bushing threaded from the inside (so that the flange would be the inside "nut"), and the 3/4 valve would thread on from the outside.

Smokin Turkey · 02-12-2009, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weiser

When I built mine I used the 1" nipples without nuts inside.
The threads are nice and tight with a 7/8" hole.
I'm happy with the way it worked out.

Weiser

My keg prototype used a bushing. The reason I moved from it is now i can weld a pretty bead and the bushings are nearly impossible for me to find.

Norcoredneck · 02-12-2009, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weiser

When I built mine I used the 1" nipples without nuts inside.
The threads are nice and tight with a 7/8" hole.
I'm happy with the way it worked out.

Weiser

Are you talking length or diameter? A 3/4" dia. pipe nipple threads into a 1" hole but not a 7/8" hole without filing.

Norcoredneck · 02-12-2009, 12:45 PM

Dr_KY · 02-12-2009, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norcoredneck

Are you talking length or diameter? A 3/4" dia. pipe nipple threads into a 1" hole but not a 7/8" hole without filing.

Agreed.

Weiser · 02-12-2009, 01:16 PM

You are correct Norco.
What the hell was I thinkin'?

Thanks for the correction.

Weiser

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norcoredneck

Are you talking length or diameter? A 3/4" dia. pipe nipple threads into a 1" hole but not a 7/8" hole without filing.

02-11-2009, 09:35 PM	#2402
Weiser is one Smokin' Farker Join Date: 10-25-08 Location: Drippin' Springs, TX	That red crap is the dreaded liner that you have read about. You have to get rid of that. Drill the lower holes, fill it with wood and light. Stand back and admire your fire building skills, while drinking a beer. It may take several burns and as many beers. Weiser __________________ [COLOR=Red][I]"There is a Fine Line between a Hobby and a Mental Disorder." [/I][SIZE=1][COLOR=Black] [/COLOR][/SIZE][/COLOR][COLOR=Red][SIZE=1][COLOR=Black] [/COLOR][/SIZE][/COLOR]

02-12-2009, 11:28 AM	#2409
N8man Babbling Farker Join Date: 05-09-07 Location: God's Country Ossipee-Osceola NC	Anything little more than Flush with the inside Diameter of the Drum makes After Cooking cleanup Difficult. __________________ N8man Average Joe Backyard Enthusiast How I Fire Up That Ugly DrumPit Smoker!!!!

02-12-2009, 12:45 PM	#2413
Norcoredneck somebody shut me the fark up. Join Date: 07-11-06 Location: Norco, Ca.	__________________ *Low and Slow.....* *The Prontologist is in...* *Ok let's see your Butt!*

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02-11-2009, 10:02 PM	#2404
MS BBQ Got Wood. Join Date: 02-08-09 Location: Crestview, FL - Hurlburt Field	Question about the vent holes in the bottom.... Is there any advantage to using threaded nipples with a cap instead of the conduit plugs like you see on the BDS? or is it just preference? Also, is there much advantage to putting a ball valve on or just leaving the holes open.

02-12-2009, 05:20 AM	#2407
h20loo is one Smokin' Farker Join Date: 01-22-08 Location: waterloo ontario	I've tried them all and they all can work. My flavour of the day is just an old speaker magnet over the hole. Actually this has become my favorite mostly because it is free and I have them around the garage.

02-12-2009, 11:11 AM	#2408
jcinadr On the road to being a farker Join Date: 01-31-09 Location: Austin, Texas	I noticed once upon a time pipe bushing were recommended, but I think the idea was ultimately dropped for some reason. I am curious about the reason as I was planning on using the bushing threaded from the inside (so that the flange would be the inside "nut"), and the 3/4 valve would thread on from the outside.