Custom BBQ Rig question

Rightstuff · 12-10-2009, 11:21 AM

I'm having a 36' gooseneck toy hauler built with a 8.5x10 back porch. I will complete the interior myself. The builders are installing ceiling, walls, insulation, flooring, electrical and A/C. I want to run the plumbing, co-axe, wiring, electrical before they install floors and walls. The only problem is that I'm not very familiar with how RV/Camper plumbing wiring needs to be ran. Are there any books (Chilton) etc, or other sources to get schematics/blueprints......or help from a Brother thats traveled this road before.

Thanks!!!!

getyourrubonbbq · 12-10-2009, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rightstuff

I'm having a 36' gooseneck toy hauler built with a 8.5x10 back porch. I will complete the interior myself. The builders are installing ceiling, walls, insulation, flooring, electrical and A/C. I want to run the plumbing, co-axe, wiring, electrical before they install floors and walls. The only problem is that I'm not very familiar with how RV/Camper plumbing wiring needs to be ran. Are there any books (Chilton) etc, or other sources to get schematics/blueprints......or help from a Brother thats traveled this road before.

Thanks!!!!

Wouldn't be easier to let the manufacturer do it and then it's covered under a warranty? My experience is that this trailer will be on a production line and unless you know someone really well they won't slow that line down to let an individual come in and do their own work. Insurance regs. won't allow it either.

Captain Caveman · 12-10-2009, 12:50 PM

Sounds like an awesome trailer. I would love to have something like that, but a little shorter. I built our trailer, and did the wiring myself. I had the plumming done. We used PEX tube for all of the water lines, because it isn't supposed to break if it freezes. We used a 120V 4 gallon hot water heater (from Home Depot). For pressure, we used a 12V (adapted to 120V) RV sur-flow water pump.

Rightstuff · 12-10-2009, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by getyourrubonbbq

Wouldn't be easier to let the manufacturer do it and then it's covered under a warranty? My experience is that this trailer will be on a production line and unless you know someone really well they won't slow that line down to let an individual come in and do their own work. Insurance regs. won't allow it either.

Its a car hauler and the builders are not familiar with outfitting them like an RV. The cost is $11,000 for the rig and I will install a kitchen in the remainder of the trailer. Its not being used as a camper/RV, only a BBQ competition rig. I also want to install a toilet/shower and will put sleeping quarters in the "loft" area. I'm trying to keep overall costs to a minimum so I don't have to finance anything.

Rightstuff · 12-10-2009, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain Caveman

Sounds like an awesome trailer. I would love to have something like that, but a little shorter. I built our trailer, and did the wiring myself. I had the plumming done. We used PEX tube for all of the water lines, because it isn't supposed to break if it freezes. We used a 120V 4 gallon hot water heater (from Home Depot). For pressure, we used a 12V (adapted to 120V) RV sur-flow water pump.

Thanks! I've been on Ebay looking at pumps, fresh water tanks, grey/black water tanks etc. I think I can complete everything myself its just going to take some research and picking some people's brain cells (hahaha). Most of my friends have already killed too many brain cells to help thats why I decided to ask the Brethren LOL.

Captain Caveman · 12-10-2009, 02:12 PM

I forgot to add that we have a 16 gal fresh water tank, and a 50 gal gray water tank. This is for dishes, and handwashing only. We don't have a bathroom. For us, this is enough water for most competition weekends. The Royal is a different story.

If I had it to do over again I would use a propane water heater, because power at some competitions is a pain in the arse.

Rightstuff · 12-10-2009, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain Caveman

I forgot to add that we have a 16 gal fresh water tank, and a 50 gal gray water tank. This is for dishes, and handwashing only. We don't have a bathroom. For us, this is enough water for most competition weekends. The Royal is a different story.

If I had it to do over again I would use a propane water heater, because power at some competitions is a pain in the arse.

Yeah last weekend we did our last competition of the year and I spoke with a guy with a 44ft rig. He said the same thing about not enough power at comps. I'm going with 48 gal fresh water tank; and 38 gal each grey/black water tanks.

Bones · 12-10-2009, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rightstuff

Yeah last weekend we did our last competition of the year and I spoke with a guy with a 44ft rig. He said the same thing about not enough power at comps. I'm going with 48 gal fresh water tank; and 38 gal each grey/black water tanks.

I am no expert but your gray water tank needs to be larger than your fresh water tank or you will over flow.

Gowan · 12-10-2009, 02:51 PM

Whatever you do, be sure to use flexible PEX tubing for your supply lines. We bought a trailer that the previous owner had plumbed himself using rigid PVC pipe. After two seasons of developing leaks at every single comp, I finally got fed up and ripped it all out and replaced it with PEX. Only had one leak since then and that was a simple loose fitting.

Keep in mind that unlike in a house, everything you put in a trailer is going to flex and move when you go down the road. If you don't provide for this, you WILL have leaks.

Ford · 12-10-2009, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rightstuff

Yeah last weekend we did our last competition of the year and I spoke with a guy with a 44ft rig. He said the same thing about not enough power at comps. I'm going with 48 gal fresh water tank; and 38 gal each grey/black water tanks.

If you ever plan on vending you need a bigger grey. Probalby 60 with 48 fresh. I'm looking at 60 with 50 fresh but not having any black.

You won't have enough power at most comps to run the AC. You need good 30 amp to run it and the trailer. Plan on having a generator. I'd get a generator bay built in and go from there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rightstuff

Its a car hauler and the builders are not familiar with outfitting them like an RV. Have you talked to James at http://www.extremebbqtrailers.com/bbqcomptrailers.html. In the long run it may be cheaper. You'll also see his ad on the Memebr sales. The cost is $11,000 for the rig and I will install a kitchen in the remainder of the trailer. Its not being used as a camper/RV, only a BBQ competition rig. I also want to install a toilet/shower and will put sleeping quarters in the "loft" area. I'm trying to keep overall costs to a minimum so I don't have to finance anything.

Excellent price for a 36' gooseneck if it inlcudes wiring, interior insulated walls and AC. What will the walls be - washable is a good idea. Same for ceiling and what about lights? Using NSF approved now will make it a lot more valuable either for vending or resale. Are you going with 50 amp? If you're adding fridge and microwave and coffee maker you might want it. I suggest a DC water pump and an LP water heater - that needs a custom built vented compartment or you could burn the trailer down. Also may want them to run gas lines. Best suggestion is to have them run the plumbing and install the tanks. They can cap the lines thru the floor and you can install everything after that. If you build the toilet remeber the plumbing needs to be vented and if you don't know how to do it get a professional to do it.

getyourrubonbbq · 12-10-2009, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rightstuff

Yeah last weekend we did our last competition of the year and I spoke with a guy with a 44ft rig. He said the same thing about not enough power at comps. I'm going with 48 gal fresh water tank; and 38 gal each grey/black water tanks.

I would increase the size of your grey tank. Normally we install 40 fresh and 50 grey in our trailers.

WineMaster · 12-10-2009, 03:39 PM

I would have James take over the project. His rigs look killer!!

Dan

getyourrubonbbq · 12-10-2009, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WineMaster

I would have James take over the project. His rigs look killer!!

Dan

Thanks Dan!!! I appreciate that. I'd be glad to help anyone with questions. It's a whole lot easier to install it ahead of time than try to retro fit something that's already complete. Especially if you're trying to conceal cable, pipes, tanks etc. Not to mention extra bracing and wiring for future roof AC. I also realize we all have budgets we are trying to stay in, but really in the long run by the time you buy everything seperately, the time/labor to install it all, have you really saved that much?

Rightstuff · 12-10-2009, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by getyourrubonbbq

I would increase the size of your grey tank. Normally we install 40 fresh and 50 grey in our trailers.

WOW your trailers are awesome!! It looks like you do incredible work.

Rightstuff · 12-10-2009, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bones

I am no expert but your gray water tank needs to be larger than your fresh water tank or you will over flow.

My plan was to install 2 tanks at 38 gallons each (76 total).

12-10-2009, 11:21 AM	#1
Rightstuff is one Smokin' Farker Join Date: 07-20-08 Location: Griffin, GA	Custom BBQ Rig question I'm having a 36' gooseneck toy hauler built with a 8.5x10 back porch. I will complete the interior myself. The builders are installing ceiling, walls, insulation, flooring, electrical and A/C. I want to run the plumbing, co-axe, wiring, electrical before they install floors and walls. The only problem is that I'm not very familiar with how RV/Camper plumbing wiring needs to be ran. Are there any books (Chilton) etc, or other sources to get schematics/blueprints......or help from a Brother thats traveled this road before. Thanks!!!!

12-10-2009, 12:50 PM	#3
Captain Caveman is one Smokin' Farker Join Date: 05-04-07 Location: Carthage, Mo.	Sounds like an awesome trailer. I would love to have something like that, but a little shorter. I built our trailer, and did the wiring myself. I had the plumming done. We used PEX tube for all of the water lines, because it isn't supposed to break if it freezes. We used a 120V 4 gallon hot water heater (from Home Depot). For pressure, we used a 12V (adapted to 120V) RV sur-flow water pump. __________________ -Chad Caveman Cuisine BBQ Team HEMI orange "Gravity Feed" Clone 2 Hotrod Black "Gravity Feed" clones Mobile Kitchen Towable offset CBJ #24304 KCBS member #24304

12-10-2009, 02:12 PM	#6
Captain Caveman is one Smokin' Farker Join Date: 05-04-07 Location: Carthage, Mo.	I forgot to add that we have a 16 gal fresh water tank, and a 50 gal gray water tank. This is for dishes, and handwashing only. We don't have a bathroom. For us, this is enough water for most competition weekends. The Royal is a different story. If I had it to do over again I would use a propane water heater, because power at some competitions is a pain in the arse. __________________ -Chad Caveman Cuisine BBQ Team HEMI orange "Gravity Feed" Clone 2 Hotrod Black "Gravity Feed" clones Mobile Kitchen Towable offset CBJ #24304 KCBS member #24304

12-10-2009, 03:39 PM	#12
WineMaster Babbling Farker Join Date: 01-16-07 Location: Southern MN	I would have James take over the project. His rigs look killer!! Dan __________________ Dan MJH From Backyard Bomber BBQ -- Junior YS 640 Comp 22.5 Weber Kettle Blue Thermopen Comp Team Wine & Swine

12-10-2009, 02:51 PM	#9
Gowan is Blowin Smoke! Join Date: 08-08-07 Location: Cartersville, GA	Whatever you do, be sure to use flexible PEX tubing for your supply lines. We bought a trailer that the previous owner had plumbed himself using rigid PVC pipe. After two seasons of developing leaks at every single comp, I finally got fed up and ripped it all out and replaced it with PEX. Only had one leak since then and that was a simple loose fitting. Keep in mind that unlike in a house, everything you put in a trailer is going to flex and move when you go down the road. If you don't provide for this, you WILL have leaks.