Weber bottom for UDS lid.

coachmccoy543 · 10-02-2013, 03:11 PM

How's it going this fine fall day?

I am building another uds (6 to date) and I am using a bottom of a Weber for my lid. It is the kind with the long exhaust holes and 3 fins inside. Sorry no pic to show. There is quite a bit of slop in the assembly and I am wanting to mod it so it will be good and tight when closed off (no pun intended :)). Has anyone done any good mods to this or have any advice about any?

This version has a nut (approx 3/4 and about 1"long) that the fins slide over with an over sized washer on the bottom. It gets fed up thru the grill where another fender like washer sits on top of the grill surface. Finally it has just a rod slid inside and a thumb screw on top and the only tension is the diameter of the fender washer on top.

Thanks for any help! Much appreciated!

peeps · 10-02-2013, 03:13 PM

Good luck. With my OTG, I can cruise along at 275F most the day with the bottom vent completely shut so it seem like getting it to seal up will be a challenge.

coachmccoy543 · 10-02-2013, 03:16 PM

Really just wanting it to be tight when done smoking to save fuel consumption.

peeps · 10-02-2013, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coachmccoy543

Really just wanting it to be tight when done smoking to save fuel consumption.

And that's what I mean...it leaks plenty when closed. Can you just tape some foil strips over top of them when you are done?

Short of having a fabricator make something, formed to fit the holes, I have no elegant suggestions.

aawa · 10-02-2013, 03:30 PM

Use flexible magnets over the rectangular holes on the weber base to seal them. YOu can reuse them after each cook.

peeps · 10-02-2013, 03:36 PM

Would the residual heat in the basket make the dome too hot for them to be effective? I bought some super strong Neodymium magnets to use to cover intake holes on my mini WSM and 30 minutes into the heat, they became permanently unusable as the heat reduced their strength. Granted the heat load in my case was probably a fair bit higher than dome temps on a UDS due to the proximity to the heat source...

I know people use them for UDS air intake control, but dome temps will be a fair bit higher than intake pipe temps on a UDS, no?

pitbossJB · 10-02-2013, 03:44 PM

Si, I have the same problem with my UDS. I also used the bottom of a Weber and it works great till you go to shut it down. I am working on a solution, but so far I haven't figured it out. I'll post something as soon as I do.

fingerlickin' · 10-02-2013, 04:54 PM

N8man has a USD lid made from a kettle bottom.

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=130795

peeps · 10-02-2013, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fingerlickin'

N8man has a USD lid made from a kettle bottom.

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=130795

Not a one touch bottom, though...

Igotgas · 10-02-2013, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fingerlickin'

N8man has a USD lid made from a kettle bottom.

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=130795

Martyleach has one made from a Weber Kettle bottom, let me see if I can find the thread.

Here it is

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=104474

promad · 10-02-2013, 06:12 PM

I got a bottom that looks kinda rough that has the 3 round vents like the one on the lid that i'm think about using for a top , anybody used one of these ?

peeps · 10-02-2013, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Igotgas

Martyleach has one made from a Weber Kettle bottom, let me see if I can find the thread.

Here it is

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=104474

That doesn't look to be a one-touch bottom either like the OP is looking for help with...

mikemci · 10-02-2013, 10:56 PM

I have been using flexible strip magnets on the 8 holes I drilled in the flat lid that came with the drum without any problems. Your exhaust will be further from the heat source than mine is.

ebijack · 10-03-2013, 04:19 AM

I'd remove the Y controller vent/ash remover and block the bolt hole. Then I would make slider vents out of cheap aluminum flashing. Easy to bend, will form to the curve of the bottom/top quite easily. Similar the lower vents on the eggs/primo's etc. I would probably block 1/2 of each slot completely with the flashing as you should need that much opening and make each one large enough you can pop rivet them on. Then make your slider so it will easily slide to what ever opening you want and still slide to be closed. The flashing can take heat as I have cooked many times over 700 deg with out a problem. Beside if any were to fail the $7 I spent on the smallest roll I still have enough to make a lot more and I already made some for friends. Here is a couple examples on uses.

bvbull200 · 10-03-2013, 10:38 AM

This was a lid, not a bottom, but I cut out the vent holes to make one large one. Then I put in a piece of ducting, JB welded it in to seal it off, and made my own damper out of a thin piece of sheet metal, a 90* tab, and a couple nuts/bolts.

Rather than try to make the existing vent work, you could go that route.

10-02-2013, 03:11 PM	#1
coachmccoy543 Knows what a fatty is. Join Date: 06-06-12 Location: Mt. Sterling KY	Weber bottom for UDS lid. How's it going this fine fall day? I am building another uds (6 to date) and I am using a bottom of a Weber for my lid. It is the kind with the long exhaust holes and 3 fins inside. Sorry no pic to show. There is quite a bit of slop in the assembly and I am wanting to mod it so it will be good and tight when closed off (no pun intended :)). Has anyone done any good mods to this or have any advice about any? This version has a nut (approx 3/4 and about 1"long) that the fins slide over with an over sized washer on the bottom. It gets fed up thru the grill where another fender like washer sits on top of the grill surface. Finally it has just a rod slid inside and a thumb screw on top and the only tension is the diameter of the fender washer on top. Thanks for any help! Much appreciated!

10-02-2013, 03:13 PM	#2
peeps somebody shut me the fark up. Join Date: 08-09-13 Location: Round Rock, TX	Good luck. With my OTG, I can cruise along at 275F most the day with the bottom vent completely shut so it seem like getting it to seal up will be a challenge. __________________ - [B][COLOR="darkorange"]Earl [/COLOR][/B]- My Custom Vertical Offset Smoker by AJ's Custom Cookers ([URL="http://bit.ly/1gelc9M"]build link[/URL]) - [B][COLOR="darkorange"]Colt[/COLOR][/B] - Superior SS-2 w/ DigiQ DXII- Courtesy of Gainesville Jaycees and Superior Smokers - [B]Weber Kettle 22.5 OTG[/B] w/ Craycort Cast Iron Grates - [B][COLOR="darkorange"]Major[/COLOR][/B] - Mini WSM (from SJS) [B][COLOR="Blue"]Certified IMBAS MOINK Baller![/COLOR][/B] ([URL="http://bit.ly/1lr5cKx"]Certificate of Authenticity[/URL]) / [B][COLOR="Blue"]Join the fun in the [URL="http://bit.ly/1ew3H57"]Throwdowns[/URL]![/COLOR][/B]

10-02-2013, 03:30 PM	#5
aawa Babbling Farker Join Date: 07-03-12 Location: Virginia Beach, VA	Use flexible magnets over the rectangular holes on the weber base to seal them. YOu can reuse them after each cook. __________________ ~Ren~ Fat Kids Club Founding Member

10-02-2013, 03:36 PM	#6
peeps somebody shut me the fark up. Join Date: 08-09-13 Location: Round Rock, TX	Would the residual heat in the basket make the dome too hot for them to be effective? I bought some super strong Neodymium magnets to use to cover intake holes on my mini WSM and 30 minutes into the heat, they became permanently unusable as the heat reduced their strength. Granted the heat load in my case was probably a fair bit higher than dome temps on a UDS due to the proximity to the heat source... I know people use them for UDS air intake control, but dome temps will be a fair bit higher than intake pipe temps on a UDS, no? __________________ - [B][COLOR="darkorange"]Earl [/COLOR][/B]- My Custom Vertical Offset Smoker by AJ's Custom Cookers ([URL="http://bit.ly/1gelc9M"]build link[/URL]) - [B][COLOR="darkorange"]Colt[/COLOR][/B] - Superior SS-2 w/ DigiQ DXII- Courtesy of Gainesville Jaycees and Superior Smokers - [B]Weber Kettle 22.5 OTG[/B] w/ Craycort Cast Iron Grates - [B][COLOR="darkorange"]Major[/COLOR][/B] - Mini WSM (from SJS) [B][COLOR="Blue"]Certified IMBAS MOINK Baller![/COLOR][/B] ([URL="http://bit.ly/1lr5cKx"]Certificate of Authenticity[/URL]) / [B][COLOR="Blue"]Join the fun in the [URL="http://bit.ly/1ew3H57"]Throwdowns[/URL]![/COLOR][/B]

10-02-2013, 03:44 PM	#7
pitbossJB is One Chatty Farker Join Date: 12-05-09 Location: Sandia Park,N.M. (land of entrapment) Name/Nickname : el jefe	Si, I have the same problem with my UDS. I also used the bottom of a Weber and it works great till you go to shut it down. I am working on a solution, but so far I haven't figured it out. I'll post something as soon as I do. __________________ "It's all done with smoke and mirrors..............I think I like smoke the best" UDS with 007 mods and pizza top Highly modified Bandera w/ griddle on firebox Mini SJ/UDS micro mini UDS Smokey Joe's 1983 22.5" Weber kettle

10-02-2013, 03:16 PM	#3
coachmccoy543 Knows what a fatty is. Join Date: 06-06-12 Location: Mt. Sterling KY	Really just wanting it to be tight when done smoking to save fuel consumption.

10-02-2013, 04:54 PM	#8
fingerlickin' Quintessential Chatty Farker Join Date: 07-08-10 Location: Boyertown, PA	N8man has a USD lid made from a kettle bottom. http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=130795 __________________ [COLOR=Navy][COLOR=Black][I] Jason [/I] "I can get a good look at a T-bone by sticking my head up a bull's a$$, but I'd rather take a butcher's word for it". - [I]Tommy Callahan III[/I][/COLOR][/COLOR] [B][SIZE=2][COLOR=DarkGreen][SIZE=3][SIZE=2][COLOR=Black] [/COLOR][/SIZE] [SIZE=2][COLOR=Black]Backwoods Ext. Party,[/COLOR][/SIZE][/SIZE][/COLOR][/SIZE][COLOR=DarkGreen] [COLOR=Black]Vision Kamado,[/COLOR][/COLOR][/B][B][COLOR=DarkGreen][COLOR=DarkGreen][B][COLOR=Black] 22" WSM[/COLOR][/B],[/COLOR] 22.5 Weber OTS, [/COLOR][/B][COLOR=DarkGreen][B]Mini WSM, [/B][COLOR=Red][B] UDS "No.8"[/B][/COLOR][/COLOR] [COLOR=Teal] [COLOR=Black][B][COLOR=DarkSlateGray]Napkin Killers BBQ[/COLOR] [/B][/COLOR][/COLOR]

10-02-2013, 06:12 PM	#11
promad On the road to being a farker Join Date: 08-17-13 Location: dallas , georgia	I got a bottom that looks kinda rough that has the 3 round vents like the one on the lid that i'm think about using for a top , anybody used one of these ?

10-02-2013, 10:56 PM	#13
mikemci Babbling Farker Join Date: 04-19-13 Location: Live Oak, Texas	I have been using flexible strip magnets on the 8 holes I drilled in the flat lid that came with the drum without any problems. Your exhaust will be further from the heat source than mine is.

10-03-2013, 04:19 AM	#14
ebijack Babbling Farker Join Date: 08-23-13 Location: Detroit Mi Name/Nickname : tom	I'd remove the Y controller vent/ash remover and block the bolt hole. Then I would make slider vents out of cheap aluminum flashing. Easy to bend, will form to the curve of the bottom/top quite easily. Similar the lower vents on the eggs/primo's etc. I would probably block 1/2 of each slot completely with the flashing as you should need that much opening and make each one large enough you can pop rivet them on. Then make your slider so it will easily slide to what ever opening you want and still slide to be closed. The flashing can take heat as I have cooked many times over 700 deg with out a problem. Beside if any were to fail the $7 I spent on the smallest roll I still have enough to make a lot more and I already made some for friends. Here is a couple examples on uses.

10-03-2013, 10:38 AM	#15
bvbull200 Take a breath! Join Date: 08-07-13 Location: Hurst	This was a lid, not a bottom, but I cut out the vent holes to make one large one. Then I put in a piece of ducting, JB welded it in to seal it off, and made my own damper out of a thin piece of sheet metal, a 90* tab, and a couple nuts/bolts. Rather than try to make the existing vent work, you could go that route. __________________ Pitfaced BBQ Drum (2) / Pitfaced BBQ Keg / 22.5" OTG / pitfacedbbq.com / fb.com/pitfaced