Someone asked about the way I made the cut-off kettle bottom fit into my drum so that it would be removable. I left 2" below the rim.

The original post of the drum is back at #5041

I used a 1/2" round Rutland stove gasket at the top with a 1/4" x3/4" Rutland gasket right under it. The point is to keep the rim high enough to get the Performer Lid to not touch the barrel itself so you get a good seal.

My one concern is that water might get into the drum in a rain.

Gasket.jpg
 
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Seems like to much cutting of the drum for me. I have limited tools and resources where i am currently living and i have no idea where to get a door like that guy. It just seems like to much work for something that really does not do that much more especially when i want to keep the cost down.

I used an abrasive blade in a skill saw to cut the 2" x 4 " hole. Very easy to do. The large opening gives easy access to clean out ashes and to tap the bottom of the ash grate as an added bonus.

The stainless draft door, which has a spark screen, only cost $36 from my local BGE Dealer.
 
Seems like to much cutting of the drum for me. I have limited tools and resources where i am currently living and i have no idea where to get a door like that guy. It just seems like to much work for something that really does not do that much more especially when i want to keep the cost down.
Wow!Maybe you could have your agent review this and get back to you.
 
Seems like to much cutting of the drum for me. I have limited tools and resources where i am currently living and i have no idea where to get a door like that guy. It just seems like to much work for something that really does not do that much more especially when i want to keep the cost down.


You don't have to cut a rectangle shaped hole. You can drill a few large round holes and install the door over them to get the same result.

holes.jpg
 
Look at what I finally got!

uds-drum.jpg


It's new with only a rust inhibitor inside.

Can this thing be turned into a smoker? Anyone got any tips? :biggrin::wink:
 
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Harbor Freight Tools

Hi,
I'm new here, but I noticed that [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Harbor Freight Tools had [/FONT][FONT=arial, sans-serif][/FONT][FONT=arial, sans-serif]
[/FONT][FONT=arial,helvetica]Knockout Punch Kit[/FONT] [FONT=arial,helvetica]15.99 and [/FONT][FONT=arial,helvetica]3 Piece Titanium Nitride Coated High Speed Steel Step Drill [/FONT][FONT=arial,helvetica]9.99
on sale.
[/FONT]
 
Hi,
I'm new here, but I noticed that [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Harbor Freight Tools had [/FONT][FONT=arial, sans-serif][/FONT][FONT=arial,helvetica]Knockout Punch Kit[/FONT] [FONT=arial,helvetica]15.99 and [/FONT][FONT=arial,helvetica]3 Piece Titanium Nitride Coated High Speed Steel Step Drill [/FONT][FONT=arial,helvetica]9.99
on sale.
[/FONT]

Look back a few pages and you will see a dialog between myself and a couple of other forum members about the harbor Freight knockout punches. The steel step drill should be good to go.
 
Look back a few pages and you will see a dialog between myself and a couple of other forum members about the harbor Freight knockout punches. The steel step drill should be good to go.
Like I said, I'm new-at page 242.
So far, both tools have been talked about, I saw that both were on sale.
That said, you are entitled to your opinion, everyone is. Over the years, I've heard some hilarious ones(SMILE)
 
OK, I'm gonna look thru this thread more thoroughly but in the mean time does anyone have any advice for finding a drum around town besides Craigslist? Like a business or any other kinds of places that typically have leftover drums that would be usuable, or maybe a place online? I dont need it be free or even that dirt cheap but less than $100 shipped at the very least otherwise it starts to defeat the purpose cost wise. I found this but it's over $150 w/shipping. Any advice?

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/m...el/drums-pails/55-gallon-steel-drum-open-head
 
OK, I'm gonna look thru this thread more thoroughly but in the mean time does anyone have any advice for finding a drum around town besides Craigslist? Like a business or any other kinds of places that typically have leftover drums that would be usuable, or maybe a place online? I dont need it be free or even that dirt cheap but less than $100 shipped at the very least otherwise it starts to defeat the purpose cost wise. I found this but it's over $150 w/shipping. Any advice?

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/m...el/drums-pails/55-gallon-steel-drum-open-head

I got a new unlined one from bestcontainers.com. Shipping was about $37.00 and the total was right at $100.00. By the time I add in gas to pick up a used one and sandblasting to clean off the liner from a used drum, it was a good deal for me. You can also look on eBay. There are some used ones going for around $50.00 shipped.
 
OK, I'm gonna look thru this thread more thoroughly but in the mean time does anyone have any advice for finding a drum around town besides Craigslist? Like a business or any other kinds of places that typically have leftover drums that would be usuable, or maybe a place online? I dont need it be free or even that dirt cheap but less than $100 shipped at the very least otherwise it starts to defeat the purpose cost wise. I found this but it's over $150 w/shipping. Any advice?

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/m...el/drums-pails/55-gallon-steel-drum-open-head
Bakery, they use food grade mineral oil (Unlined drum also). Thats what I used. I've read on here that machine shops use a mineral oil also.
 
Liner????

First post. First UDS. Got a drum that had mineral oil in it. Cut the top out and I can't tell for sure if it has a liner or not. It's not red, tan or orange. Its metal gray. I can clearly see the dark area where it was welded at the seam. I wouldn't think you could see the weld if it had a liner. I don't think it does but I'm not positive.

David
 
First post. First UDS. Got a drum that had mineral oil in it. Cut the top out and I can't tell for sure if it has a liner or not. It's not red, tan or orange. Its metal gray. I can clearly see the dark area where it was welded at the seam. I wouldn't think you could see the weld if it had a liner. I don't think it does but I'm not positive.

David
It prob does not have one. If you want to be sure dump any remaining oil in a container with rags to soak the oil up. Then wash it out good with tide and hot water mixture. Then if you spray a little water on the inside in one spot it will start to rust in a day or two, no liner. Then just do the seasoning burn or if you feel better do a burn with three pallets then do your seasoning burn. Mineral oil has a flash point of 375* Don't forget to drill your intake holes before you do your burn.
 
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My Almost Finished UDS and one for a Friend

Started out with (2) food grade drums that I bought from Porcinepirate..Kind of a funny story. I had been looking on CL for a doner Weber Kettle to build a UDS, and he had a "wanted ad" up for a Weber Kettle. I had shot him an e-mail asking if by chance, he was building a UDS. He replied back with YES, and after a few e-mails he invited me over to look at his newly finished UDS. So My self and my daughter shot over there to look at his UDS and the PRON was in the air with some fresh pulled pork.:shock: The rest is as follows.
UDS_001.jpg

UDS_002.jpg

Drilled holes for the pipe nipples
UDS_004.jpg

Welded the nipples :eek:
UDS_005.jpg

UDS_010.jpg

Put some feet on there. Thanks Frank!!
UDS_011.jpg

Ready to burn!:grin:
UDS_015.jpg

PIC_0228.jpg

0202001701.jpg

Couldnt wait any longer after the burning, grinding, sanding, sandblasting etc!!:shock:
UDS_043.jpg

The fire box out of my almost (Brand new) retired off-set (just don't tell the WIFE)! :icon_shy
UDS_034.jpg

My cheapo T-stat... Which worked great until our new Tel-Tru's :lol: Get here!
UDS_047.jpg

Ok, Finished buisness during the seasoning was AWESOM!
UDS_049.jpg

OK... Back to my shop for the charcoal baskets
UDS_052.jpg

UDS_054.jpg

UDS_056.jpg

UDS_061.jpg

UDS_062.jpg

UDS_065.jpg

UDS_067.jpg

Ok...For the ball valve extension. Went to a local scap yard and bought a piece of 5/16" rod, cut it down and ran a die on there to match the same threads as the valve. Ran a drill thru it and the coupling nut and threw a couple of cotter pins thru it to keep them tight.
UDS_078.jpg

UDS_080.jpg

Flattened out the rod with a disc grinder to accept the handle.
UDS_081.jpg

UDS_082.jpg

Almost there!
UDS_086.jpg

Sanded the outside and then rubbed them down good with steel wool. Wiped them down with Acetone and used this paint. Took about a pint to give both of the drums 2 coats of paint.
UDS_087.jpg

UDS_089.jpg

Almost finished Products... Still need an exhaust.
UDS_099.jpg

UDS_102.jpg

UDS_103.jpg

UDS_104.jpg

The entire UDS cost as follows... $30 for one food grade drum, $12 for a doner Weber kettle (to use the charcoal grate and the grill) $4.50 for the expanded metal, the tube (feet) , 5/16" rod (for the T-handles, handle extension, and the charcoal basket handle), quart of high temp satin black 15.00/2 = $7.50 and a cheapo T-stat because I couldnt wait to fire it up :rolleyes:. And the new T-stat should be here soon for less than $20.00 off of Ebay. Grand total of less than $75.00:shock: But if you count all of the beers, electricity, tools, etc... it was just a tad more. :grin: The feet were made out of a piece of pipe given to me from Frank AKA :porcinepirate as well as the purchase of the barrels. I had salvaged all of the stainless machine bolts, nuts, washers, wood for the handles,nipples,caps,and my ball valve from the guys at work ,my dad, and the dumpster as well. Thanks BBQ Brethren for all of your in put on the build. Thanks for looking!:wink:
 
GREAT WORK Pit Boss Honeycutt, I really like the finish and craftsmanship and attention to detail you put into your UDS. I can't wait to see what you do for the smoke stack (chrome? to go along with the black finish).

As I told you before I want to redo my coal basket to incorporate the great Ideas you used on yours.

Porcine Pirate

" Pigs are our Tasty Friends "
 
I will be building me a drum Smoker This Summer...I like what I am hearing and seeing from Bigmista
 
nice drums! give 'em a few smokes to "get to know 'em", but you should be good. let us know if you have any questions.
 
Dang Pit Boss thats a nice paint job on those. What did you do to get that on there?

I used a high temp Rust-Oleum satin black BBQ paint from HD. The barrels were in pretty darn good shape prior to the burn, so after the burn I sanded down all of the loose paint and such, hit them with steel wool, and then wiped them down with acetone prior to paint. I had never heard of thinning paint down with acetone, but on the can it said to use acetone or mineral spirits. I opted to go with acetone to hopefully reduce drying time. Thinned the paint a tad with acetone, and shot them with a quart automotive spray gun.
 
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