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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, equipment and outdoor cookin' . ** Other cooking techniques are welcomed for when your cookin' in the kitchen. Post your hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures, but stay on topic and watch for that hijacking.


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Old 08-15-2012, 09:20 AM   #9841
CervezayBBQ
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Join Date: 08-03-12
Location: Indianapolis In
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I'm new here and I just thought to post some questions. Found a drum for free but with 2 different obstacles. 1. It is a closed head drum and 2. Had either hydraulic oil or Glycol. I'm thinking not to use it for smoking just because all the work to burn and clean all the nasty stuff. I live in Indy and haven't found a place to buy a good food grade drum.

Other issue is that I can't burn anything right now because of the drought, the city is dry and they will fine me.

Does anybody here knows where to get food grade drums in Indy. Unlined and food grade ideally. Thanks
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Old 08-15-2012, 09:37 AM   #9842
DJnKY
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Join Date: 06-12-12
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Food grade drums all have liners, to the best of my knowledge. Just saw "trash Barrels" for $13 in a Rural King ad. Haven't laid eyes on the drum, but might be worth looking there. One in Martinsville and one near Columbus. Let us know what ya find. Good luck.
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Old 08-15-2012, 11:12 AM   #9843
fastfleetline
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Join Date: 07-07-12
Location: Fresno, Ca
Default got my barrels

i just got 2 closed top drums from a feed store near my home...no liner.......now the fun can start.....i remember reading about a process of removing the tops a closed drum with a grinder and cutting through 2 or 3 of the metal layers....but i can find the youtube clip..can anyone help....thanks Joe
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Old 08-15-2012, 11:58 AM   #9844
willbird
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastfleetline View Post
i just got 2 closed top drums from a feed store near my home...no liner.......now the fun can start.....i remember reading about a process of removing the tops a closed drum with a grinder and cutting through 2 or 3 of the metal layers....but i can find the youtube clip..can anyone help....thanks Joe
Honestly many folks me included cut the very top bead off to make some kind of lid fit. If you can figure out if you have to cut that top bead off anyway, why not just slice it off now ? I cut mine off by setting the 4.5" makita on top of a bench level on the "blade gaurd" then moving the drum around the cutting blade, some lay it on the concrete floor to do the same job.

If you look at a soda can you will see I think the same construction as a drum head, now take that can out and run the top rim on your bench grinder, and you can pop the top right out, probably would work on a drum too if you still want the "ring" in place. My flat lid came from another drum and was too big of a dia to fit inside the "ring".

Bill
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Old 08-15-2012, 12:07 PM   #9845
W00dButcher
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Join Date: 05-17-12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastfleetline View Post
i just got 2 closed top drums from a feed store near my home...no liner.......now the fun can start.....i remember reading about a process of removing the tops a closed drum with a grinder and cutting through 2 or 3 of the metal layers....but i can find the youtube clip..can anyone help....thanks Joe
The closed top drums are really three pieces all fit together. If you can picture it, a machine crimps and rolls the edges of (the rim) of the barrel and the lid to make a "permenant" seal. If you grind away the top edge you will cut through the lid part and release it from the barrel. Before you start cutting be sure of the fit of your lid. If you are using a sealed drum I would assume you will top it off with a kettle lid, right? Dad always said "you can't cut more onto it".
There is something to make note of that is simple but still needs to be considered. Make sure you are fully aware of what was inside that barrel and if it is flamable. Even one that has been emptied and washed out has risk of an explosion. Some have been seriously injured and even died from overlooking this. Mine had thinner in it, was "empty" of fluid but full of fumes. I filled it to overflowing with water and used a sawsall to cut off the top. I got wet but didn't blow up.
If you get a drum with the liner in it just take it to a small body shop. They will sand blast the whole thing and then all you have to do is put it together. Burning out one of these drums is pretty labor intensive. Just decide how much your time is worth.
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Old 08-15-2012, 12:15 PM   #9846
CervezayBBQ
Got rid of the matchlight.
 
Join Date: 08-03-12
Location: Indianapolis In
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Well, found a new drum for about $60. I might have to go with that. I'm almost sure it has that terracotta color rust inhibitor paint in it thought.
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Old 08-15-2012, 12:19 PM   #9847
Peddler
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My Build has started ... Pics at a later date.
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Old 08-15-2012, 12:21 PM   #9848
sparky66
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Join Date: 08-07-12
Location: Oakland, CA.
Default First UDS

Hello everyone,

New to this forum and just finished making Paul's Ostrom's design for the UDS. Pretty simple but I do have a couple of questions in regard to the build. The only thing that was deviated from the plan was mine has 2" feet instead of 1" on the ash pan which puts the lip of the ash pan @ 2 1/2" above the intakes which were drilled per specs @ 2" on center. My first question is will there be sufficient air flow with the intakes below the ash pan? Even with the original design of 1" legs on ash pan the intakes are about 1" below the lip of the ash pan. Am I looking at the engineering of this wrong. It just seems that the intakes should be more at the level of the actual fire basket and not under the ash pan.

My second question relates to the first one in that because I have 2" feet it leaves only 22 1/2" between the bottom of the fire basket and the cooking surface of grill instead of the desired 24". I lost the 1/2" somewhere else within the basket. If it is a major deal, I can always cut the feet down to 1" and get 23 1/2" between surfaces.

I'm looking to do a test burn tomorrow so input is greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Sparky
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Old 08-15-2012, 12:22 PM   #9849
sparky66
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Holy moly...this thread has 657 pages. Awesome!
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Old 08-15-2012, 12:26 PM   #9850
Peddler
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I'm planning on the ash pan sitting directly on the floor of the drum, then three in legs on the coal basket...that would ( having 24" between) have the grate at 8 ins below the top rim...
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Old 08-15-2012, 01:05 PM   #9851
sfbbqguy
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Join Date: 08-18-08
Location: Corte Madera, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparky66 View Post
Hello everyone,

New to this forum and just finished making Paul's Ostrom's design for the UDS. Pretty simple but I do have a couple of questions in regard to the build. The only thing that was deviated from the plan was mine has 2" feet instead of 1" on the ash pan which puts the lip of the ash pan @ 2 1/2" above the intakes which were drilled per specs @ 2" on center. My first question is will there be sufficient air flow with the intakes below the ash pan? Even with the original design of 1" legs on ash pan the intakes are about 1" below the lip of the ash pan. Am I looking at the engineering of this wrong. It just seems that the intakes should be more at the level of the actual fire basket and not under the ash pan.

My second question relates to the first one in that because I have 2" feet it leaves only 22 1/2" between the bottom of the fire basket and the cooking surface of grill instead of the desired 24". I lost the 1/2" somewhere else within the basket. If it is a major deal, I can always cut the feet down to 1" and get 23 1/2" between surfaces.

I'm looking to do a test burn tomorrow so input is greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Sparky
Welcome Bay Area brother!

I would do a test run and see how your temps hold with current intake config. Maybe throw on a Fattie! You can always change (move holes up) if you need to. You'll just want to do it before you get the cooker too greased up from cooking on it.

On second question...I wouldn't worry too much about the grate being exactly 24" inches above basket. There will always be some variation based on how much fuel you're using anyway. I don't think mine is 24" either and it's always done just fine.
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Old 08-15-2012, 01:38 PM   #9852
sparky66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfbbqguy View Post
Welcome Bay Area brother!

I would do a test run and see how your temps hold with current intake config. Maybe throw on a Fattie!
Thanks. Yeah, I'm going to do a test run today. A Fattie?

Sparky
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Old 08-15-2012, 01:42 PM   #9853
sparky66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peddler View Post
I'm planning on the ash pan sitting directly on the floor of the drum, then three in legs on the coal basket...that would ( having 24" between) have the grate at 8 ins below the top rim...
You must have a drum taller than 34" then. Because mine is a standard 34" with the cook surface @ 7" below top with the ash pan only 2" above the drum floor. So I lost an inch between the basket and weber grill.

Sparky
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:23 PM   #9854
Peddler
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Why elevate the ash pan ... The coal basket is really (if i understand correctly) the only thing that needs to be elevated.

Scroll down the page and you'll see what I mean.

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...t=43943&page=6
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Old 08-15-2012, 04:00 PM   #9855
sparky66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peddler View Post
Why elevate the ash pan ... The coal basket is really (if i understand correctly) the only thing that needs to be elevated.

Scroll down the page and you'll see what I mean.

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...t=43943&page=6
You want the ash pan to sit off the floor of the drum so more heat radiates up instead of into the base of the drum. What I've read and if you think about it, it does makes sense. It's already built like that anyway. I'm going to do a test burn in a few minutes. I may or may not cut an inch off the feet depending on how things go. I'm also waiting on my dome thermometer but will just be using a candy thermometer today.
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