Ugly Drum Smoker

[h20loo]

Originally Posted by NCSU-Q

One more question... I have decided to use a BGE draft door for my air intake. How are you guys attaching these to the drum? Rivets? JB Weld?

I use selftaping screws and no need for sealant.

The last 11 drums I have built have the BGE style intakes. I even went back and modded some of my first drums with the sliding door. None of my drums or BGE are fixed in place so if wind on the intake, exhaust or me is a problem then I just rotate the drum or Egg. Mine really aren't directional. The reality is that you have the same amount of opening regardless of the way you regulate it so strong wind can be a problem for any intake. BGE are pretty successful and haven't resorted to plumbing taps.

[Learnin Querve]

Originally Posted by brewski

The business sells them for $10. They are clean because the glue and silicone that comes in them is bagged. They do not even have scratches or dents.

Hey Brewski,

Do you by chance work for a window manufacturer?

I used to sell sealants to window builders that came in straight sided drums...

Nice looking drum, BTW.

Chris

[mike101prf]

Hello everyone, first time poster and I got hooked on the UDS thread and decided to build my own this weekend. This thread has to be the most helpful thing ive read to date on the building and different designs of the UDS. With that said here is my contribution to the UDS thread. Thanks to everyone for the posts

[mike101prf]

and the firebox

[brewski]

Originally Posted by Learnin Querve

Hey Brewski,

Do you by chance work for a window manufacturer?

I used to sell sealants to window builders that came in straight sided drums...

Nice looking drum, BTW.

Chris

I do not. The business I am refering to is Adaseal which is near our town.

Thanks for the compliment.

[Rodney]

Originally Posted by NCSU-Q

I just got my drum to build my UDS.
I had a buddy pick it up for me, and when he dropped it off, the cap for the 2" bung was missing.
I have googled trying to find a replacement, but only come up with plastic ones.
I also googled for 2" pipe to just skip the cap and make a stack, but stainless is the only thing I found (other than plastic or galvanized) and that stuff is pretty expensive.
Where do I go from here?
What material are others using to build their stacks?

Galvanized will work great if you're hesitant to use PVC. Your lid will have to get to 1600 degrees before the zinc will vaporize and become hazardous, and by that time your food will be ash and you won't want to eat it anyway.

[brunski]

Originally Posted by N8man

I have updated the template I used in construction of my DrumPit and would like to share it with y'all...It's in PDF Format...I found it handy to have and use....

Attachment 41275

The File, once downloaded should look like this....
Attachment 41276

Full Scale measures 25"x25"
If you own a Postscript Printer you can tile print it at 100% scale and tape the pages
together, if not, you can take the file to a Print Service Bureau that has Large Format Capability
and have it printed and laminated.

This link shows how I used the template for layout of the holes to drill...
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...3&postcount=62

this was awesome - it helped me greatly in my build!!!
Thank you n8man!!!

[_Christopher_]

On page 432 of this thread (post #647 a tip was to use Easy-Off oven cleaner. I tried this on my lined barrel and it did not remove the liner. It did however completely remove the outer paint on the outside of the barrel cleanly and effortlessly. The barrel I purchased was made in 2010 for the Concord juice company and it shipped grapefruit juice. The liner is not red, but more like a very deep red wine color (near deep brown with hint of red) and feels more like a hard enamel than paint. I can scratch off the paint of my truck easier than the liner of this barrel. It's like it's between automotive paint and the truck bed liner paint.

I pre-sanded the area for testing with a few patches I took down to bare metal. Not even the thin areas around the bare metal edges were affected. I tried both the heat treatment and the cold over night method. None of the methods even came close to removing any of the liner or layers of the liner. But it did great removing the outside paint.

I purchased this when I thought all I had to do was burn it out. Now I know better. My goal now is to either find a bare metal barrel cheaper than $40 (and keep the one I has as a trash burn barrel), or pay the $40 for sand blasting it out. Which the economy can't be that bad. Out of 8 local slandblasters from the yellow pages, only two returned my phone call and I called them all at least three times each. And one of them said, it wasn't worth his time; politely though.

[1FUNVET]

Originally Posted by _Christopher_

On page 432 of this thread (post #647 a tip was to use Easy-Off oven cleaner. I tried this on my lined barrel and it did not remove the liner. It did however completely remove the outer paint on the outside of the barrel cleanly and effortlessly. The barrel I purchased was made in 2010 for the Concord juice company and it shipped grapefruit juice. The liner is not red, but more like a very deep red wine color (near deep brown with hint of red) and feels more like a hard enamel than paint. I can scratch off the paint of my truck easier than the liner of this barrel. It's like it's between automotive paint and the truck bed liner paint.

I pre-sanded the area for testing with a few patches I took down to bare metal. Not even the thin areas around the bare metal edges were affected. I tried both the heat treatment and the cold over night method. None of the methods even came close to removing any of the liner or layers of the liner. But it did great removing the outside paint.

I purchased this when I thought all I had to do was burn it out. Now I know better. My goal now is to either find a bare metal barrel cheaper than $40 (and keep the one I has as a trash burn barrel), or pay the $40 for sand blasting it out. Which the economy can't be that bad. Out of 8 local slandblasters from the yellow pages, only two returned my phone call and I called them all at least three times each. And one of them said, it wasn't worth his time; politely though.

You might try burning it out again. Did you drill your inlet holes yet? Makes a lot of difference. Might get a weed burner from HF and get after it.

[brunski]

"vote for Pedro" lol

Originally Posted by Southern Home Boy

Not sure how old your daughter is (or her boyfriend or her boyfriend's dad...) but the movie "Napolean Dynamite" is a cult classic for us late 30 - early 40 sometings:


Any time I see a "Pedro" reference, that's where I go.

[jcinadr]

I just used a short 2" pipe nipple for my smoke stack. A empty corn can (right size) will keep any rain out. That said, I have a 2 1/4 tractor muffler cover on mine. A small magnet below the hinge will get it to lock open when you are cooking.
----
Fire needs O2. One person hooked up a shop vac to his nipple as a blower - impressive resulting burnout. That said, if you do that to a lid, I highly suspect it will warp.

(fire plus injected air = blast furnace)

[1FUNVET]

Originally Posted by jcinadr

I just used a short 2" pipe nipple for my smoke stack. A empty corn can (right size) will keep any rain out. That said, I have a 2 1/4 tractor muffler cover on mine. A small magnet below the hinge will get it to lock open when you are cooking.
----
Fire needs O2. One person hooked up a shop vac to his nipple as a blower - impressive resulting burnout. That said, if you do that to a lid, I highly suspect it will warp.

(fire plus injected air = blast furnace)

Top from a can of spray paint is what i use on 2" PVC stack even tho my drum is under my carport off my shop. Saw a wasp snooping around one day and decided i better cover the stack.

[gjdad]

Hi all. I have read some to this thread over the last week. My question is about a design for stacking one drum vertically on top of another. The lower drum has the normal UDS setup, the top drum has a long door to access slide out shelves. Can somebody direct me to the part of the thread that discusses this type of design.

Thanks

Dave

[colonel00]

Can't say that I have seen that before but I could have missed it. There are plenty of people that do stack drums though. Basically you want to cut the drum around the rib where the drum flares out. Then it will sit on the lip of your normal UDS and provide a decent seal. As far as the door, I like the idea but I fear you might have some serious air leaks. Especially if you want the door big enough to access large racks. Perhaps check and see how some people have made theirs stackable with different sections. This would essentially allow you to have 2-3 racks per section in the standard lift-out configuration.

[gjdad]

Originally Posted by colonel00

Can't say that I have seen that before but I could have missed it. There are plenty of people that do stack drums though. Basically you want to cut the drum around the rib where the drum flares out. Then it will sit on the lip of your normal UDS and provide a decent seal. As far as the door, I like the idea but I fear you might have some serious air leaks. Especially if you want the door big enough to access large racks. Perhaps check and see how some people have made theirs stackable with different sections. This would essentially allow you to have 2-3 racks per section in the standard lift-out configuration.

Thanks, I was thinking I could use 16 gauge strips attached inside the opening with high temp calk in the ribs and weather stripping the entire opening to seal the door. I dont have any idea about latches yet. I will have a door at bottom to slide the fire basket in and out. A third door in the bottom drum to access the waterpan/drippan.