Ugly Drum Smoker - Page 258

Kevin · 08-08-2009, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by h20loo

your exhaust can be black pipe, abs,galvanized exhaust pipe or non existent. Unless you hang your meet over the exhaust it won't make any difference!! The reason the experienced builders use the 2" pipe is that it is the easiest to control. I think the holy lid messes with the convection of a drum and is a pain to damper off.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norcoredneck

Au Contraire Mon Fraire!
(always wanted to say that) Evenly spaced holes are the best convection.

I agree that evenly spaced holes are the best convection. With my set up, 3 half inch pipe nipples for intake, my drum will not get much hotter than 250*. That works fine for most anything I'm cooking. If it needs to get hotter than that, just remove the threaded bungs. 375* is almost instantaneous.

firecracker jack · 08-08-2009, 08:20 PM

Sounds like the way to go...It's almost a done deal...Except I still want to use a Webber lid...If I remeber right they only have four holes set to one side...need I add more to even it out??

Rich Parker · 08-09-2009, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by firecracker jack

I managed to find a local metal fab shop wthin about two miles down the road..I was able two purchase smaller pieces of the expanded metals real cheap, as they were left over cuts from previous jobs.
The ash pan is just a lid from a 30 gal drum that they gave me from the reconditioned barrel purchase...Then I bought the other piece of flat stock from the metal fab dudes and worked it into a diameter that fit into the drum lid... All the metals cost only about 15$..And I have some left over for future builds....
What really hurt $$wise was the stainless bolts and hardware, tools that I didn't have layin' around, and gas money drivin' around to pick things up.....

Still can't find that used webber kettle...Darn!
Rainin' too hard for any yard sales....

Fircrckerjack
__________
Dpp 60
Chargrillerpro/sfb
UDS...She'll be better lookin' one day

Nice lookin drum!

That stainless steel hardware is costly, but I wouldn't want to chance with using anything else.

When you are ready to get rid of that DPP 60, let me know...

timmy7649 · 08-09-2009, 07:01 PM

thanks for the info on the galvinized issue. it's good to know. i will stick with my 2 inch pipe. alot easier to shut down. and it cooks great.

jcinadr · 08-10-2009, 10:20 AM

fwiw, there is a 2" electrical conduit fitting that will screw right into the bung hole. I have had no problem with my 2" smoke stack.

I have had problems with my metal pipe nipples and caps - will nead to work on them. They rusted so bad I could not open them (cap rusted to nipple). I am not sure if I will just wire brush them and periodically coat them in oil, go to brass or galvanized. Right now they are simply a pita.

On the other hand, thinking about replacing them completely with a bbq guru.

EatonHoggBBQ · 08-10-2009, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by firecracker jack

I'm sorry Eatonhogg, I didnt realize it was you...I bought it at Van Buren Steel fabricators in Belleville mi, 48111

OK, thanks for the info. I bought my expanded metal at all metals inc. out in Adrian. Belleville is a lot closer, may try there next time.

h20loo · 08-10-2009, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcinadr

fwiw, there is a 2" electrical conduit fitting that will screw right into the bung hole. I have had no problem with my 2" smoke stack.

I have had problems with my metal pipe nipples and caps - will nead to work on them. They rusted so bad I could not open them (cap rusted to nipple). I am not sure if I will just wire brush them and periodically coat them in oil, go to brass or galvanized. Right now they are simply a pita.

On the other hand, thinking about replacing them completely with a bbq guru.

A guru is a neat addition but otherwise I would just use sheet magnets or speaker magnets.

mranum · 08-10-2009, 04:19 PM

I have had problems with my metal pipe nipples and caps - will nead to work on them. They rusted so bad I could not open them (cap rusted to nipple). I am not sure if I will just wire brush them and periodically coat them in oil, go to brass or galvanized. Right now they are simply a pita.

I got the same issue with mine. I think I'll just put on a couple more valves.

1FUNVET · 08-10-2009, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mranum

I have had problems with my metal pipe nipples and caps - will nead to work on them. They rusted so bad I could not open them (cap rusted to nipple). I am not sure if I will just wire brush them and periodically coat them in oil, go to brass or galvanized. Right now they are simply a pita.

I got the same issue with mine. I think I'll just put on a couple more valves.

Check price of ss nipples and caps vs valves 1st

firecracker jack · 08-10-2009, 08:13 PM

Hey Rich,

After watching how steady the temps held after I got them to stabilize(even though they weren't as low as I would like), without having to do any adjusting Or fiddlin' around with anything, or addin fuel. I was already impressed to the point of selling the Diamondplate pit 60...Ran a sales add today...Just kiddin.
Crazy as it might sound..I like tending the big stick burner all day...Grab me a chair..Find some shade...Maybe a glass of iced tea...Throw a stick or two on every once in a while...Heck I guess I just like playing with fire! And then there's always you get to eat at the end...Even if your Que' don't turn out any good because you're just gettin' started learning your new pit, go ahead and eat it anyways...You don't really gotta' tell any body about it..

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich Parker

Nice lookin drum!

That stainless steel hardware is costly, but I wouldn't want to chance with using anything else.

When you are ready to get rid of that DPP 60, let me know...

Hugh Jorgan · 08-10-2009, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mranum

I have had problems with my metal pipe nipples and caps - will nead to work on them. They rusted so bad I could not open them (cap rusted to nipple). I am not sure if I will just wire brush them and periodically coat them in oil, go to brass or galvanized. Right now they are simply a pita.

I got the same issue with mine. I think I'll just put on a couple more valves.

I just spray mine with a shot of cooking oil when I shut them down at the end of a cook. You have to shut them down tight as you can by hand. Three or more weeks with rain every week and no issues.

Boy that's an ugly weld. You can tell I didn't prepare the metal well. just sticking to the theme.

MadKirk · 08-11-2009, 12:49 AM

I know pics, or did not happen, but seasoned drum Sunday and smoked a fatty in the process. It was great with biscuits and gravy! Ran 7 hours at around 225-235 for the season and only burned through maybe 5-6 lbs of charcoal. I was very impressed for the first run.

On the pipe or holes debate, does the pipe help with draw, or does it make much difference over just using the 2" bung hole in the lid? I ran with just an open bung in the lid, and noticed that when the wind kicked up, smoke would briefly come out the ball valve. Wondering if an exhaust pipe would help with this.

jcinadr · 08-11-2009, 10:02 AM

I think the main advantage to the holes rather than the pipe is putting a cover on the uds when you are done. The main advantage to the pipe is being able to cap it and keep water out w/o needing to put a cover on.

nzrebel · 08-11-2009, 10:15 AM

Thanks to a Brethren's tip I have found a source of lined but clean food grade drums with lids for $10 in the greater DC area.
PM me for details.

Dave

smoke it if ya got it · 08-11-2009, 11:02 AM

Just finished my drum smoker with a door for jiggling. I thought the door would be enough air flow but it shuts so tight it put's the charcoal out so I've added air holes with magnets and am now ready for a test run this weekend. Brisquit is on the menu 1/2 hour per pound at 220. This will be the second trial run for competition. By the way how does one become a farker as I have been called something similar many times.

08-09-2009, 07:01 PM	#3859
timmy7649 Full Fledged Farker Join Date: 04-06-09 Location: lafayette,oregon	thanks for the info on the galvinized issue. it's good to know. i will stick with my 2 inch pipe. alot easier to shut down. and it cooks great. __________________ JUST A LITTLE U.D.S. webber 22.5"

08-11-2009, 10:15 AM	#3869
nzrebel Full Fledged Farker Join Date: 07-20-09 Location: Vienna Va	Thanks to a Brethren's tip I have found a source of lined but clean food grade drums with lids for $10 in the greater DC area. PM me for details. Dave __________________ WSM 18", Weber Gasser, Trash Can Smoker (Retired)

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Ugly Drum Smoker	ironslob	Q-talk	2	09-19-2010 10:16 AM
Ugly Drum Smoker - Need Help	Bartkowiakj	Q-talk	10	06-18-2010 09:38 PM
One Ugly Drum Smoker	Steve_B	Q-talk	15	09-21-2009 10:32 PM
My (not-so) Ugly Drum Smoker.	hav	Q-talk	47	11-05-2008 02:30 PM
Ceramic Cooker Meets Ugly Drum Smoker - BUDCS - Concept Drum Discussion	Hook_Line_and_Sinker	Q-talk	9	04-26-2008 02:24 PM

08-08-2009, 08:20 PM	#3857
firecracker jack is one Smokin' Farker Join Date: 06-27-09 Location: belleville,mich.	Sounds like the way to go...It's almost a done deal...Except I still want to use a Webber lid...If I remeber right they only have four holes set to one side...need I add more to even it out??

08-10-2009, 10:20 AM	#3860
jcinadr On the road to being a farker Join Date: 01-31-09 Location: Austin, Texas	fwiw, there is a 2" electrical conduit fitting that will screw right into the bung hole. I have had no problem with my 2" smoke stack. I have had problems with my metal pipe nipples and caps - will nead to work on them. They rusted so bad I could not open them (cap rusted to nipple). I am not sure if I will just wire brush them and periodically coat them in oil, go to brass or galvanized. Right now they are simply a pita. On the other hand, thinking about replacing them completely with a bbq guru.

08-10-2009, 04:19 PM	#3863
mranum Full Fledged Farker Join Date: 05-03-09 Location: Wisconsin Rapids, WI	I have had problems with my metal pipe nipples and caps - will nead to work on them. They rusted so bad I could not open them (cap rusted to nipple). I am not sure if I will just wire brush them and periodically coat them in oil, go to brass or galvanized. Right now they are simply a pita. I got the same issue with mine. I think I'll just put on a couple more valves.

08-11-2009, 12:49 AM	#3867
MadKirk Knows what a fatty is. Join Date: 07-10-09 Location: SE Oklahoma	I know pics, or did not happen, but seasoned drum Sunday and smoked a fatty in the process. It was great with biscuits and gravy! Ran 7 hours at around 225-235 for the season and only burned through maybe 5-6 lbs of charcoal. I was very impressed for the first run. On the pipe or holes debate, does the pipe help with draw, or does it make much difference over just using the 2" bung hole in the lid? I ran with just an open bung in the lid, and noticed that when the wind kicked up, smoke would briefly come out the ball valve. Wondering if an exhaust pipe would help with this.

08-11-2009, 10:02 AM	#3868
jcinadr On the road to being a farker Join Date: 01-31-09 Location: Austin, Texas	I think the main advantage to the holes rather than the pipe is putting a cover on the uds when you are done. The main advantage to the pipe is being able to cap it and keep water out w/o needing to put a cover on.

08-11-2009, 11:02 AM	#3870
smoke it if ya got it Full Fledged Farker Join Date: 08-10-09 Location: Way out there!	Just finished my drum smoker with a door for jiggling. I thought the door would be enough air flow but it shuts so tight it put's the charcoal out so I've added air holes with magnets and am now ready for a test run this weekend. Brisquit is on the menu 1/2 hour per pound at 220. This will be the second trial run for competition. By the way how does one become a farker as I have been called something similar many times.