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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, Equipment and just outdoor cookin' in general, hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures... but stay on topic. And watch for that hijacking.


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Unread 04-16-2009, 02:52 PM   #2866
Chavo27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockyathabaska View Post
Charvo,
plywood may be ok for a test burn ,but plywood is made from ureaformaldihyde glue, a known carcinogen.That would put it up there with galvanized fittings as big no no's for drum cookers.
How about a lid made from solid wood ,barn door style?Might even impart some flavour.
go drummers go!
RockyAthabaska
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I might have used galvanized on my intakes I'd better look into this!
Although, their below where the fire will be so would it really matter?
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Unread 04-16-2009, 03:16 PM   #2867
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I might have used galvanized on my intakes I'd better look into this!
Although, their below where the fire will be so would it really matter?
I think a lot of people are way too paranoid about zinc. Here's a telling point: go read the label on your bottle of multi-vitamins. Contains zinc, an essential element for the human body. What do mountain climbers smear all over their faces, a white ointment? Zinc oxide. What is all over every single piece of metal in every playground in the country? Zinc.

People are nervous about zinc because the first day when you weld it without wearing a dust mask, you breathe zinc oxide dust and get flu-like symptoms that disappear as soon as you drink a glass of milk. That's the only health hazard related to zinc I know of. Zinc doesn't melt until it gets to 785°F, and if your air intakes get that hot, your meat is pure carbon and might work as charcoal lump in your next cook!

I think all the fuss about zinc is 99% urban legend.

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Unread 04-16-2009, 03:37 PM   #2868
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The galvanized debate lingers on.I'm just padding my side of the issue by not using galv.stuff on my drum.No plywood on mine either......
new info never hurt.
Rocky
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Unread 04-16-2009, 04:52 PM   #2869
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I just went to the hardware store that I bought the parts form and it's not galvanized
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Unread 04-16-2009, 04:53 PM   #2870
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lol I do know my washers are zinc.. I guess I can't win...
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Unread 04-16-2009, 07:06 PM   #2871
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Default Food grade coating

I am picking up my drum this weekend. It was a food grade lined drum that the lining was burnt out of. In the process of burning, the lid warped and doesn't fit snug. The guy selling the drum told me I could have a lined lid if I wanted it.

I have read that it is important to have a snug fitting lid so I'm sure I'd like to take him up on that.

Question: has anyone removed the lining in a non-burning method? I live in the 'burbs, burning plastic would get me shot by a tree-hugger.

I was thinking a heat gun and scraper, maybe power washer.

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Unread 04-16-2009, 07:34 PM   #2872
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chavo27 View Post
lol I do know my washers are zinc.. I guess I can't win...
Take a torch, burn it off without breating it and wire brush, take muratic acid (pool acid) and dunk them till it quits bubbling and rinse, or build it and don't worry.
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Unread 04-16-2009, 07:35 PM   #2873
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Hey Ping, I just finished my drum and was concerned about the lid also. It does not fit really tightly and it appears as that is OK. The temps were very controllable and I could shut it down and the coals went out even faster than in the WSM. While the cook was in progress little wisps of smoke would come out from under the lid. No biggie. The lid is easily removable with one hand on the handle. Pick it up, set it down. No tugging no pounding. Tight enough.
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Unread 04-16-2009, 08:20 PM   #2874
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Hey Pinghacker. You can use paint stripper ( paint remover ), or sandblast it . Just my 2cents.
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Unread 04-18-2009, 10:19 PM   #2875
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Default Temp issues on Frankenstien

I finished my UDS today minus the green paint which will be next week, named it Frankenstein. I have both a Weber style lid (Not Weber) and the drum lid with 2 bungholes. I'm having trouble getting below 300 degrees with the Weber style lid and 275 with the drum lid. I had all plugs on and the valve nearly closed and was steady at 300. Here are some pictures, notice how closed my intake is. Any advise?

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Unread 04-18-2009, 10:29 PM   #2876
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Just a thought here.
Next time shut the intakes down early, like about 10* before you reach your desired temp.
Shut all of them down tight then regulate it with the valve only.
After 30 minutes, if need be, open up one nipple.
Be patient! These adjustments are not instant, it takes a while for the drum to adjust.

These things are all a bit different. Much of the problem is learning
how to build a responsible fire and to duplicate it every time.

Weiser


Quote:
Originally Posted by masiewiz View Post
I finished my UDS today minus the green paint which will be next week, named it Frankenstein. I have both a Weber style lid (Not Weber) and the drum lid with 2 bungholes. I'm having trouble getting below 300 degrees with the Weber style lid and 275 with the drum lid. I had all plugs on and the valve nearly closed and was steady at 300. Here are some pictures, notice how closed my intake is. Any advise?

Masiewiz
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Unread 04-18-2009, 10:49 PM   #2877
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Small Fire at Startup...I start 14 Briquettes in the Chimney...
Catch Temp on the way up...Harder to control when you overshoot..
Allow 30 minutes for your air intake adjustments to take effect...
Each Drum has it's own Personality..Takes a little time to learn it's perks,
but once learned, will serve you well....
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Unread 04-18-2009, 11:52 PM   #2878
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Default Choking your orifice

Quote:
Originally Posted by N8man View Post
Catch Temp on the way up...Harder to control when you overshoot..
Allow 30 minutes for your air intake adjustments to take effect...
Yep. What he said.

First time I used my drum I let it get as hot as it would go at first (thinking I needed to be sure it got properly lighted...) Took FOREVER to get it down to 225* after that. Now I kinda know where the air intake wants to be for 225*. I get the coals going in the chimney like N8 says, pour them into the fire basket, put the lid on and choke it down right away. My valve's a little different that y'all's balls, but I bet the sweet-spot has less than 1-square inch of air opening... Pretty damned small hole when everything's where it wants to be.
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Unread 04-19-2009, 07:30 AM   #2879
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Weiser, N8man and Thawley speak the truth. Start with a small fire and let the temps creep up, keeping an eye on the temps. They go up pretty quickly. Start with 1 cap off and the vent full open. When the temps get to 200 put on the cap. Wait and see what happens in 15 minutes and start to make small adjustments. In my drum I use lump for the fire but briquettes to start things up. A 1/2 full charcoal basket of lump and wood chunks and 8 to 10 hot briqutees dropped on top of that. Works well for me and the drum runs consistently at 250*
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Unread 04-19-2009, 12:27 PM   #2880
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Default Hmmm, That's what I did.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokin' D View Post
Weiser, N8man and Thawley speak the truth. Start with a small fire and let the temps creep up, keeping an eye on the temps. They go up pretty quickly. Start with 1 cap off and the vent full open. When the temps get to 200 put on the cap. Wait and see what happens in 15 minutes and start to make small adjustments. In my drum I use lump for the fire but briquettes to start things up. A 1/2 full charcoal basket of lump and wood chunks and 8 to 10 hot briqutees dropped on top of that. Works well for me and the drum runs consistently at 250*
Hey Smokin
That is what I did. I lit 10 coals in my chimney and dumped it in my basket, with one valve open. Do you think it is my top venting? I did get better control with my other drum lid the one with 2 bungholes open, still too hot though. With all the help from you guys on this thread, I'll dial it in.

Masiewiz

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