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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, Equipment and just outdoor cookin' in general, hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures... but stay on topic. And watch for that hijacking.


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Unread 03-16-2009, 08:41 PM   #2611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beerwolf View Post
OK.. how bout this... HF sells a powder coating kit for about 80 bucks I believe.. how would it work to spray it and then cure it with the heat from inside the UDS?
He told me they get it up to about 150 degrees and then spray it so it dry's quick and then they bake it between 5-600 dgrees to cure.
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Unread 03-16-2009, 08:41 PM   #2612
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norcoredneck View Post
Takes 400 degrees for 1/2 hour. Thing works great. buddy has an electric house oven he does it in. Gotta be clean, oil free. Great for engine/boat parts.

400 deg for 1/2 hour... load charcoal basket, powder coat and open vents.. mission accomplished... more heat? more charcoal...
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Unread 03-16-2009, 08:43 PM   #2613
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Originally Posted by chinesebob View Post
What is the one side plug with the chain?
There are two, intakes. I put the chains on so I wouldn't lose them or step on them.
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Unread 03-16-2009, 08:53 PM   #2614
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarberQue View Post
He told me they get it up to about 150 degrees and then spray it so it dry's quick and then they bake it between 5-600 dgrees to cure.
It doesn't exactly spray. Don't want to seem like a know it all but my dad was in on the beginning of the powdercoat process. He ran a wheel company. They bought one of the first powder coat lines sold. Ithe clean piece is electracally (?) charged and so is the powder. A low pressure air or kinda "poof" is blown on the part and it is drawn to the part. Then it is put in the oven. Process is great. 400 is the minimum temp to start process. About the only way I had ever seen him get it off or strip it is with extreme temps. Great coating.

Old man used to blow a gasket when someone would ask him to "Dip" this in chrome!
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Unread 03-16-2009, 09:00 PM   #2615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norcoredneck View Post
It doesn't exactly spray. Don't want to seem like a know it all but my dad was in on the beginning of the powdercoat process. He ran a wheel company. They bought one of the first powder coat lines sold. Ithe clean piece is electracally (?) charged and so is the powder. A low pressure air or kinda "poof" is blown on the part and it is drawn to the part. Then it is put in the oven. Process is great. 400 is the minimum temp to start process. About the only way I had ever seen him get it off or strip it is with extreme temps. Great coating.

Old man used to blow a gasket when someone would ask him to "Dip" this in chrome!
He said when the goes on it's totally black and as it bakes the grey comes out, it's called gray vien. I never seen him do it but that is what he tells me.
I know what you mean about chrome. I used to nickel or chrome plate my brew stands, but after seeing the difference of powder coating I won't go back. I did a 50 gallon system at Christmas time for a guy in NY that insisted on nickel. I was so disapointed in that finished product.
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Unread 03-17-2009, 07:43 AM   #2616
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Tyler- I thought I had my system down and I wouldn't add or change my barrels but that powder coat is awesome. Changes it to a Beauty Drum Smoker!!
BTW- what are Brew stands?
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Unread 03-17-2009, 11:08 AM   #2617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h20loo View Post
Tyler- I thought I had my system down and I wouldn't add or change my barrels but that powder coat is awesome. Changes it to a Beauty Drum Smoker!!
BTW- what are Brew stands?
They are for brewing beer,I will post pics of the one I made for myself this week in the homebrew section on this forum.
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Unread 03-17-2009, 01:23 PM   #2618
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Can a drum that held biodiesel be used for a UDS? Having a hard time finding an unlined drum here.
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Unread 03-17-2009, 09:05 PM   #2619
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Got a friend looking for someone in the Chicago area to help make a UDS. Anyone got time, energy, or interest in helping?
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Unread 03-17-2009, 09:23 PM   #2620
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I've been thinking about your post since last night.
Why wouldn't that work?
Uneven temps and variation between top and bottom?

I have no idea... just thinking.

Weiser


Quote:
Originally Posted by Beerwolf View Post
OK.. how bout this... HF sells a powder coating kit for about 80 bucks I believe.. how would it work to spray it and then cure it with the heat from inside the UDS?
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Unread 03-17-2009, 10:22 PM   #2621
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So here's the first step in my first barrell build. Burned all the crap out of it today, will hit it in and out with wire brush and sanding pads. Will post more pics along the way.


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Unread 03-18-2009, 11:19 AM   #2622
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weiser View Post
I've been thinking about your post since last night.
Why wouldn't that work?
Uneven temps and variation between top and bottom?

I have no idea... just thinking.

Weiser
If anything, it would be cool to try.
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Unread 03-18-2009, 06:49 PM   #2623
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Tried a full burn this this weekend. (prior burns needed an open valve and an open nipple to get temp).

I started the burn with a new bag of lump (got a little crazy with the weed burner - was in a rush). While seasoning about 3/4 of a goat, I struggled to get the temp down, then back up. Temp was just right - opened my valve and nipple, tossed on the ATB's and goat and went in for a nap...

woke up-way too hot (closed valve), cooked breakfast-more way too hot (closed nipple open valve), ate breakfast-damn-still too hot (2/3 valve), ate atb's-temp holding great. Wonder how the goat is-(overdone by 20 degrees - and 3hrs ahead of schedule).

Ran inside, got tray came out to the beginnings of a storm, got the goat in before the downpour hit. Guess the temps were just about right after all. Goat was salvageable and I was dry.

Conclusion - new bag of lump was the fix. I guess even my last sealed back had gotten too damp and was messing up my temps in the prior runs.

Will try to paint and post pics soon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcinadr View Post
My uds is still a work in process - but am getting closer to pictures. My fire basket is 12"x48" of expanded mesh, with a 14" diameter expanded mesh grate 3" from the bottom.

Initially I used the 18" el cheapo table top grill for an an ash pan. It worked, but I felt it was keeping my temperature down. I switched to a 16" commercial pizzia pan this weekend. It is much thicker/stronger than the el cheapo grill.

Temp was marginally better - but was working with minimal charcoal (only had sausage and abt's on the grill. Will run a full test again next smoking.

Anyway, I really liked the Acemart pizzia pan - it was about $8 and about 3/32 thick.
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Unread 03-18-2009, 09:54 PM   #2624
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Default keeping caps from rusting on

does just soaking the nipples with oil keep them from rusting on, paint does not seem to work for chit. I keep mine out side in the weather. This seems to only be a problem cause i use locknuts instead of welding my nipples on, thus causing them to lossen when tring to remove a rusted on cap.
thanks
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Unread 03-18-2009, 10:04 PM   #2625
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I coat the threads with a light coat of White Lithium grease.
Seems to work for me.

Weiser
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1130home View Post
does just soaking the nipples with oil keep them from rusting on, paint does not seem to work for chit. I keep mine out side in the weather. This seems to only be a problem cause i use locknuts instead of welding my nipples on, thus causing them to lossen when tring to remove a rusted on cap.
thanks
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