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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, Equipment and just outdoor cookin' in general, hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures... but stay on topic. And watch for that hijacking.


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Unread 12-18-2008, 06:19 PM   #2146
Andyll
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Asking for input on How Many UDS cookers you would recomend for a KCBS comp?

Thanks,
Ken A.
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Unread 12-18-2008, 07:23 PM   #2147
JD McGee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyll View Post
Asking for input on How Many UDS cookers you would recomend for a KCBS comp?

Thanks,
Ken A.
4 minimum...(one for each meat)...maybe 5 ( one hot one for setting glazes)...
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Unread 12-18-2008, 07:32 PM   #2148
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where can i find 1/2 inch stainless plugs for intake -exhaust holes
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Unread 12-18-2008, 07:40 PM   #2149
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http://www.mcmaster.com/

Not Stainless but nickle plated. Page 3671


9563K43Push-in Metal Plug Nickel-Plated, Fits 1/2" ID, 21/32" Head DiameterIn stock at $11.87 per PackThis product is sold in Packs of 50
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Unread 12-18-2008, 11:07 PM   #2150
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Has anyone had good luck with an 85 or 110 gallon drum? I finally read through the whole thread, but i dont remember seeing anything conclusive about this. My motivation is trying to get 2 racks in 1 smoker without dealing with the non fitting weber lid. I think the extra capacity would make it a good size to use regularly as well as hold enough to do the larger family gatherings. I just dont have enough time with my current work crazyness to deal with the fine tuning to get the airflow dynamics right if it doesnt work. Thoughts?

Thanks all,
-JD
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Unread 12-18-2008, 11:49 PM   #2151
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JD, I think you are dealing with the typical thought train that happens during the construction of that first drum....its called OVERCOMPLICATION. I can guarantee you can get a Weber lid to fit a drum in California, I do it all the time. I am not familiar with 110 or 85 gallon drums, but Id bet that you will spend a lot of time getting grills and other ' off the rack items' to fit those size drums. My advice is to bite the bullet and make the 50 gallon standard uds. I am sure if you follow the directions to 'fine tune' the Weber lid, you will be glad you did. In closing remember we dont build rocket ships... all it needs to do is burn mamal, lowly and slowly
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Unread 12-19-2008, 01:03 AM   #2152
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I made a 85 gallon. Now with the 26" Weber you can get grills more easily. Build a 55 and find what you like/dislike and gofor the85 and then sell the 55. But you will probably keep it.


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Unread 12-19-2008, 01:19 AM   #2153
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I've read most of these posts and must admit I have the itch. I have almost everything I need to start and have access to everything else (I work at Lowes). I even scored a brand new Weber kettle for about 40 bucks still in the box. Yhe only thing I'm missing is the drum. Actually I have one but was wondering if it was safe to use. I've been looking for about a month now and there are none to be found around here. My father in law brought one over today from his shop but it was used for acetone. When you open it up there is no smell at all coming from it so I'm thinking it will be okay. I was wondering what all of you experts think. Thanks in advance.
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Unread 12-19-2008, 02:10 AM   #2154
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I'd go a couple of good burns through it.
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Unread 12-19-2008, 07:06 AM   #2155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norcoredneck View Post
http://www.mcmaster.com/

Not Stainless but nickle plated. Page 3671


9563K43Push-in Metal Plug Nickel-Plated, Fits 1/2" ID, 21/32" Head DiameterIn stock at $11.87 per PackThis product is sold in Packs of 50
They sell these at Lowes in single packs too. All different sizes. In the electrical section.
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[/SIZE]
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Unread 12-19-2008, 07:12 AM   #2156
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jd,
I have two racks in my 55 gal. with a flat lid. the grates are about 5.5 inches apart. There has only been a couple times I couln't fit the meat in that space. You can also make a tall lid from a donor drum. You have to work on sealing it up and a weber lid would probably be easier.

good luck and make sure to post pics
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Unread 12-19-2008, 07:27 AM   #2157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalk721 View Post
Yhe only thing I'm missing is the drum. Actually I have one but was wondering if it was safe to use. I've been looking for about a month now and there are none to be found around here. My father in law brought one over today from his shop but it was used for acetone. When you open it up there is no smell at all coming from it so I'm thinking it will be okay. I was wondering what all of you experts think. Thanks in advance.

I just picked up 2 perfect drums. They are almost too pretty to start cutting up. They were Castrol oil drums. I looked inside and they are almost perfect and clean. I asked the guy if he cleaned them and he said "No, sometimes they are not filled with oil, but have plastic bag liners with other stuff in them" I guess that only applies to open top drums.

This one must have held something other than oil because there is no smell, no residue, and there are a couple of very light surface rust circles inside the barrel where it looks like something rubbed against the inside of the barrel in shipping.

I hit it with some acryli-clean wax and grease remover and only got a very light coat of dirt off the inside of the barrel. I let it sit for a while and when I checked again it appeared to be bare metal so I lightly scuffed it with a greenie pad and the next day it had surface rust on that spot. I will still run it through a burn cycle, but I am pretty confident it is clean now.

The acetone should evaporate without leaving a residue, if its the higher quality acetone. There are some lesser purity acetones that will leave a slight residue. I would do a good cleaning with soap and water first. That would remove most of the residue if there is any, and then do a burn. By washing it first you don't have to worry as much about the burn fumes that may come out of the drum.
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Unread 12-19-2008, 08:50 AM   #2158
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If you build a proper sized fire, anythign in there will be reduced to charcoal once it is burned... its a chemistry thing
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Unread 12-19-2008, 09:14 AM   #2159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaronimo View Post
The acetone should evaporate without leaving a residue, if its the higher quality acetone. There are some lesser purity acetones that will leave a slight residue. I would do a good cleaning with soap and water first. That would remove most of the residue if there is any, and then do a burn. By washing it first you don't have to worry as much about the burn fumes that may come out of the drum.

Thanks. I was hoping it wouldn't blow up on me. I kinda would like to keep my eyebrows.
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Unread 12-19-2008, 09:16 AM   #2160
JD McGee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalk721 View Post
My wife is worried it's going to blow up on me. It won't....will it?
I'd make sure it's empty before torching it!

Here is the MSDS for acetone...check it out.
http://www.sciencelab.com/xMSDS-Acetone-9927062

excerpt...


Flammability of the Product:
Flammable.
Auto-Ignition Temperature:


465C (869F)
Flash Points:


CLOSED CUP: -20C (-4F). OPEN CUP: -9C (15.8F) (Cleveland).
Flammable Limits:


LOWER: 2.6% UPPER: 12.8%
Products of Combustion:


These products are carbon oxides (CO, CO2).
Fire Hazards in Presence of Various Substances:


Highly flammable in presence of open flames and sparks, of heat.
Explosion Hazards in Presence of Various Substances:
Risks of explosion of the product in presence of mechanical impact: Not available.
Slightly explosive in presence of open flames and sparks, of oxidizing materials, of acids.
Fire Fighting Media and Instructions:
Flammable liquid, soluble or dispersed in water.
SMALL FIRE: Use DRY chemical powder.
LARGE FIRE: Use alcohol foam, water spray or fog.
Special Remarks on Fire Hazards:


Vapor may travel considerable distance to source of ignition and flash back.
Special Remarks on Explosion Hazards:
Forms explosive mixtures with hydrogen peroxide, acetic acid, nitric acid, nitric acid + sulfuric acid, chromic anydride,
chromyl chloride, nitrosyl chloride, hexachloromelamine, nitrosyl perchlorate, nitryl perchlorate, permonosulfuric acid,
thiodiglycol + hydrogen peroxide, potassium ter-butoxide, sulfur dichloride, 1-methyl-1,3-butadiene, bromoform, carbon,
air, chloroform, thitriazylperchlorate.

p

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