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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, Equipment and just outdoor cookin' in general, hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures... but stay on topic. And watch for that hijacking.


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Unread 09-06-2008, 10:31 AM   #1
Stiltz6ft9in
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Default UDS Supply List

Is there a supply list for building a UDS laying around. I need a list of supplies for the UDS, charcoal basket and tools. I got a Home Depot gift card for my birthday and I am determined to finish my UDS. I'm going to get everything tonight. Let me know. I know I need the following:

1 Ball Valve (Not sure what size)
2 Pipes w/ nipples (Not sure what size)
Stainless Steel Screws and nuts (Not sure what size)
1 Weber rack to start
Thermometer
Hole Saw
Step Bit

The other thing I need is a set of plans. Can anyone link me the plans please so I know distances between bottom and racks and things like that?

I still need some other miscellaneous things like a probe for food, and any other things you guys can think of.
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Unread 09-06-2008, 10:36 AM   #2
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Got Beer?
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Unread 09-06-2008, 10:47 AM   #3
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Here is the list I used. I used eyebolts instead of bolts for the grates to sit on. Mine also has a tall intake where I use a magnet instead of ball valve. For the Charcoal basket I went to a machine shop with the charcoal grate and had one welded out of I think 1" expanded metal.


Basic UDS parts list

* (1) 18" charcoal grate
* (2) 22.5" cooking grates
* (1) Weber 22.5" grill lid
* ( 1/4"x2 5/8" stainless eyebolts (4 pkg of 2)
* ( 1/4"x20 stainless nuts (2 pkg of 4)
* (16) 1/4" stainless cut washers (3 pkg of 6)
* (1) 3/4"x30" black pipe (threaded both ends)
* (2) 3/4" elbows 90 degree
* (4) 3/4"x1.5" close nipples
* ( 3/4" conduit lock nuts
* (3) 3/4" caps
* (1) 3/8"x6" stainless eyebolt
* (1) 3/8" stainless nut
* (2) 3/8" stainless cut washers

Tools, most guys have most of what you will need. But the speciality ones were for me:
Step drill bits
best but to use for the intake holes, don't need a hole saw

Shower valve socket wrench
easiest and best way to tighten the conduit nuts on the intakes for 1" intakes the wrench is 1 9/32" they come in different sizes so you have to check the conduit nut size some stores sell them as sets, some individually.

And go to this posting for how to tutorial.
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=43943

Good luck future drumhead.
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Unread 09-06-2008, 10:49 AM   #4
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Don't know why the number 8 came out as smiley faces?????????
must be the number then the )
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Unread 09-06-2008, 10:50 AM   #5
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Yep that's it, that is a bit annoying.
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Unread 09-06-2008, 11:09 AM   #6
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Quote:
1 Ball Valve (Not sure what size)
2 Pipes w/ nipples (Not sure what size)
Stainless Steel Screws and nuts (Not sure what size)
1 Weber rack to start
Thermometer
Hole Saw
Step Bit
Some tips...
*unless you plan on using the step bit ALOT, you might save some of your gift card money and hit up a Harbor Freight store if you have one close enough to justify the trip.
*Some Weber replacement grills have the "flip up" sides...IMO don't spend any extra for this feature.
*As mentioned already, buy beer.
*Save some coin...don't buy the expanded metal (for the basket) from anywhere but your local welding shop...most shops have a scrap/remnant stash that you can buy steel by the pound...often narrow strips good enough for baskets can be found. No worries if it is rusty.
*You might pick up some paint while at the store.
*Be sure to calibrate the thermometer and be gentle when tightening the mounting nut so you don't mess up the calibration.
*If you use bolts to make your basket, consider some larger sized fender washers that will work with the expanded metal grating hole dimensions.
*If you find yourself at a Harbor Freight, take a peek at their cheapest little red dolly...$18 or so. I use these on my smokers...simply mark the barrel to accept some U-bolts that you will use to tie the side tubes of the dolly to the middle of the barrel. If you do this mod, be mindful of your intake holes so you don't accidentally block them with the dolly.
*I buy the cheap hardware...not stainless. I doubt any of us ever "disassemble" our smokers...so rusted up bolts and nuts are not a problem to worry about. If your shop is well stocked, you might have some muriatic acid (concrete cleaner)...if so, (and you have not had too much beer yet) carefully pour about a 1/2" into a small plastic container and carefully place your zinc coated hardware into the acid...it will dissolve the finish. Just buy the stainless hardware if you have never worked with muriatic acid before.
*Buy beer.
*Will you be needing concrete blocks to sit it on?
*Oh...and buy beer.

Last edited by Butt Ugly; 09-06-2008 at 09:31 PM..
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Unread 09-06-2008, 01:55 PM   #7
Stiltz6ft9in
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Thanks, I appreciate it. I'm going to use the ball valve. Can a extend my ball valve intake up the side of the barrel so I don't have to bend over to reach it? Any other suggesstions?
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Unread 09-06-2008, 02:08 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stiltz6ft9in View Post
Thanks, I appreciate it. I'm going to use the ball valve. Can a extend my ball valve intake up the side of the barrel so I don't have to bend over to reach it? Any other suggesstions?
I did.
Get a thermometer for the drum. I put a spicewine in mine.
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Unread 09-06-2008, 02:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stiltz6ft9in View Post
Thanks, I appreciate it. I'm going to use the ball valve. Can a extend my ball valve intake up the side of the barrel so I don't have to bend over to reach it? Any other suggesstions?
I just use my foot. Easy.
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Unread 09-06-2008, 07:24 PM   #10
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Typical expanded metal is 3/4 #9.



I have a step by step build on here. I believe I call out parts for each step. Not that my way is best or the only way but I gaurantee it will work.
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Unread 09-06-2008, 09:30 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norcoredneck View Post
Typical expanded metal is 3/4 #9.


I have a step by step build on here. I believe I call out parts for each step. Not that my way is best or the only way but I gaurantee it will work.
Don't kid yourself, it's the UDS bible.
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Unread 09-06-2008, 09:41 PM   #12
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aren't ball valves cheaper at harbor freight ?
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Unread 09-06-2008, 09:59 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbshop View Post
aren't ball valves cheaper at harbor freight ?
$5.99 for 3/4"
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Unread 09-07-2008, 10:08 AM   #14
Stiltz6ft9in
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I'm going to get my supplies....
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Unread 09-07-2008, 12:08 PM   #15
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Got my supplies, but the wife says I have to finish the bathroom first.
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