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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, Equipment and just outdoor cookin' in general, hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures... but stay on topic. And watch for that hijacking.


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Unread 07-13-2008, 10:32 AM   #1336
smokestack
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I can't find a food grade barrel, but can get a couple free barrels from a local garage that had new motor oil in them - If I clean and burn them out, would they be safe to use? I think I read somewhere in this thread that metal doesn't absorb liquids
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Unread 07-13-2008, 12:14 PM   #1337
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you're not looking very hard...

http://www.scrantoncooperage.com/drums.html
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Unread 07-13-2008, 12:48 PM   #1338
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thanks for the link- searched the web for them many times- never came up with anything that local- they are only about 40 miles away -will call tomorrow
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Unread 07-13-2008, 02:43 PM   #1339
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you're welcome///

I googled "steel drum scranton" after seeing NE PA in your profile.
A new open top 23"x36" drumm will cost $40-50ish. Well worth it to not worry about chemicals PLUS all the labor saved in cleaning, burn out, paint, etc....
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Unread 07-13-2008, 03:02 PM   #1340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norcoredneck View Post
One valve is all that is needed. If you go full open and don't get temp,remove cap and throttle back on valve. With 3/4" nipples I find at most I ever needed was 1 cap off 1/2 throttle valve. i put 3 nipples when making it , 1 for reserve.
Note to this: if with one valve and one cap open you don't get temp ... check the following
  1. if you have 100 lbs of butts and brisket - your meat load is HIGH - it will take more fire to heat a large load to temp - or longer time to cook at lower temp
  2. Lid or exhaust openings - 8 ea 1/2 holes in a flat lid is the minimum - none caped or closed - bigger exhausts up to 1 in should only be attempted with great caution - so if you have less than 8 1/2 holes get them, if you have them check the other items listed
  3. moist fuel - charcoal absorbs water vapor and this will give you temp problems, keep it dry and in sealed containers
  4. patience - the UDS is controlled by the air intake - any changes to the air intake my take up to 30 or more to settle - wildly changing the intake and opening the lid every 5 minutes will only get you erratic results - have a drink take a chill pill and have faith
  5. spend some quality time with your UDS when its new to get a feel for how its going to run for you - then you can set it and forget it - really
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Unread 07-13-2008, 07:06 PM   #1341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stiltz6ft9in View Post
How many ball valves do you guys have in the bottom? It looks like Norecoredneck's post he has 3. I getting ready to finish mine up. This is where I'm stuck.
I was going to go with ball valves but laziness and not having a welder got in my way. I drilled a single 1-3/8" hole and use magnets to regulate the temp, works great.
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Unread 07-14-2008, 12:16 AM   #1342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick Danger View Post
I was going to go with ball valves but laziness and not having a welder got in my way. I drilled a single 1-3/8" hole and use magnets to regulate the temp, works great.
Another way of simplfiying things!
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Unread 07-14-2008, 02:02 PM   #1343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hook_Line_and_Sinker View Post
Note to this: if with one valve and one cap open you don't get temp ... check the following
  1. if you have 100 lbs of butts and brisket - your meat load is HIGH - it will take more fire to heat a large load to temp - or longer time to cook at lower temp
  2. Lid or exhaust openings - 8 ea 1/2 holes in a flat lid is the minimum - none caped or closed - bigger exhausts up to 1 in should only be attempted with great caution - so if you have less than 8 1/2 holes get them, if you have them check the other items listed
  3. moist fuel - charcoal absorbs water vapor and this will give you temp problems, keep it dry and in sealed containers
  4. patience - the UDS is controlled by the air intake - any changes to the air intake my take up to 30 or more to settle - wildly changing the intake and opening the lid every 5 minutes will only get you erratic results - have a drink take a chill pill and have faith
  5. spend some quality time with your UDS when its new to get a feel for how its going to run for you - then you can set it and forget it - really
Nice beginner guide HLS!
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Unread 07-14-2008, 02:15 PM   #1344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokestack View Post
I can't find a food grade barrel, but can get a couple free barrels from a local garage that had new motor oil in them - If I clean and burn them out, would they be safe to use? I think I read somewhere in this thread that metal doesn't absorb liquids
Yeah; a good scrub with hot soapy water followed by a good burn should do the job.
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Unread 07-14-2008, 04:58 PM   #1345
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I was wondering if anyone has mods for their UDS to grill with it too.

I'm looking at making one but I'm interested in grilling with it too. is that possible?
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Unread 07-14-2008, 07:15 PM   #1346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DUFFYGOULD View Post
I was wondering if anyone has mods for their UDS to grill with it too.

I'm looking at making one but I'm interested in grilling with it too. is that possible?
You could add a set of bolts/grate supports at correct height and place coals on that and grill on upper rack. I have a project in the works that is going to be the all around Redneck Backyard Cooker. Stand By!
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Unread 07-14-2008, 07:48 PM   #1347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norcoredneck View Post
You could add a set of bolts/grate supports at correct height and place coals on that and grill on upper rack. I have a project in the works that is going to be the all around Redneck Backyard Cooker. Stand By!
I actually made a modified basket out of expanded metal with two inch angle iron. The point of the angle welded to the bottom of the basket. I was going to weld two small sections of angle iron to the sides of the basket and then use rebar across them to set the basket on top of.

So four 1.5" pieces of angle welded to the side in a v. rebar across the barrel, sitting in the v and then the basket on top, sitting on the rebar.

When you aren't grilling you can just set the basket on the bottom of the barrel, though it may not be enough clearance.....
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Unread 07-14-2008, 07:50 PM   #1348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jiarby View Post
you're welcome///

I googled "steel drum scranton" after seeing NE PA in your profile.
A new open top 23"x36" drumm will cost $40-50ish. Well worth it to not worry about chemicals PLUS all the labor saved in cleaning, burn out, paint, etc....
Look for reconditioned drums if you can. They should be cheaper and are just as clean minus a final washing to rinse them out.
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Unread 07-14-2008, 08:18 PM   #1349
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OK 3 days after finding this thread, I read it all. Got a drum in the backyard soon to be a UDS.
I may attempt to add a means of supporting the basket at grilling height like Chinesebob and Norco just mentioned.
Thanks guys for the great read.
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Unread 07-14-2008, 08:22 PM   #1350
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This may be in the thread somewhere, but the 22" cheapo replacement grills at Academy are too small. Need to use the true Weber replacements or put in several more supports.
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