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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, equipment and outdoor cookin' . ** Other cooking techniques are welcomed for when your cookin' in the kitchen. Post your hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures, but stay on topic and watch for that hijacking. |
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04-26-2014, 05:54 PM | #1 |
Knows what a fatty is.
Join Date: 04-05-13
Location: Buffalo Grove, IL
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One last UDS paint question
I had my drum sandblasted and when I picked it up, I cleaned it, first with a dry lint free cloth to remove excess sand, then with the Dupli-Color degreaser. It had plenty of "tack" to it which I left on deliberately to give the Dupli-Color primer something to adhere to, and after 2 cans of the primer, it's curing per the instructions. It looks good so far but it also has some rough spots on it. Spots where the paint isn't peeling per se but looks somewhat stringy and rough.
I should probably just leave it as is, let it cure, then apply the color and clear coats and be done since the drum will just wind up getting dirty anyway, but how do folks get smooth looking paint jobs when the primer/paint needs a rough surface to stick to? I could take some 220 grit sandpaper and try lightly sanding the rough patches but I hesitate since I don't want to remove too much of the primer. Was just curious in case I have go back and redo anything.
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UDS-ified ECB, UDS, mini-WSM (almost done) |
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04-26-2014, 06:28 PM | #2 |
Knows what a fatty is.
Join Date: 10-20-13
Location: NW OK
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Use a scotch brite pad or 600 grit wet sand it to smooth primer.
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04-26-2014, 06:29 PM | #3 |
is one Smokin' Farker
Join Date: 10-09-07
Location: carthage,mo.
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Primer is not only something for paint to adhere to but also a filler to some small degree. When you have an improfection then just sand smooth and keep going. It's very important to get coats dry before sanding and the paint container's advice will usually be within guidelines for temps and times. Ask any old school custom painter how coats and sanding was needed and you might get the eyes rolled back deal,not an answer in numbers. When I used to paint I never used primer unless I was mixing paint types which wasn't often. Just get smooth and clean. To avoid problems clean with something that doesn't react to your paint. I only paint my intake systems, lids and flues now. The barrels all get sandblasted and powder coated. No more yearly paint jobs. Steve.
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04-26-2014, 08:23 PM | #4 |
Knows what a fatty is.
Join Date: 04-05-13
Location: Buffalo Grove, IL
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Thanks for the advice. I've picked up 2 scotch brite pads at Ace (the regular green, store didn't have the red), so I'll try those. The primer is already dried and has to cure for 7 days but I'm following the Dupli-Color instructions, practically exactly and not mixing paints. I'll learn as I go.
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UDS-ified ECB, UDS, mini-WSM (almost done) |
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04-27-2014, 01:44 AM | #5 |
Full Fledged Farker
Join Date: 07-17-13
Location: Wales
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any reason you did not get it powder coated when sandblasted?
I worked out just as cheap for me to get powder coated as it would have cost me for spray paint. Thats excluding my time it would have taken me to spray it + I'll get a better finish than anything I could produce. |
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