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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, Equipment and just outdoor cookin' in general, hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures... but stay on topic. And watch for that hijacking.


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Unread 09-13-2013, 02:49 AM   #11386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texyank52 View Post
After reading through this thread for the last month or so I've read numerous times about builds not being able to maintain low temps. Has anyone been successful in getting their UDS to consistently maintain lower temps, ie: 200 to 225? If this is possible, what do attribute it to? What do you feel you did to the build to get the low temps to stay steady. I'm not a big fan of fast bbq'ing so if this isn't possible with a UDS I'd like to know before I piece one together.

Jim
To do lower temps, do a smaller diameter fire basket. Like 13 inch or even smaller.
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Unread 09-13-2013, 08:45 AM   #11387
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I put a 6-8" diameter clay flower pot upside down in the center of the fire basket and put the charcoal/hickory around it 4" deep in a ring around it - also place a brick alongside the pot to make the ring discontinuous. leave a space for lit coals between the brick and one end of the charcoal ring. I put 7-8 lit coals in that space. Using the ball valve I can hold 130 degrees F all day for smoking sausage/salmon, etc. Good luck!
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Unread 09-13-2013, 09:45 AM   #11388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texyank52 View Post
After reading through this thread for the last month or so I've read numerous times about builds not being able to maintain low temps. Has anyone been successful in getting their UDS to consistently maintain lower temps, ie: 200 to 225? If this is possible, what do attribute it to? What do you feel you did to the build to get the low temps to stay steady. I'm not a big fan of fast bbq'ing so if this isn't possible with a UDS I'd like to know before I piece one together.

Jim
Jim, I have been able to hold 220-230 without any problems, this has been in the last 8 cooks. This was my first UDS build so there is not a lot of history with it yet. Being that there is not a lot of history I can tell you how mine is run, most of the time the ball valve is open (3/4" valve w/ 1/2" I.D.), there are 3 other inlets all run with caps that have 3/8" holes drilled in them. What I have seen so far is running with air coming in all 4 inlets the burn on the charcoal is a lot more even in the basket.

Now from what I have seen on here (and I have read this mega thread) there is a lot of ways to build the UDS and this is what it working for me so far.

All the cooks so far have turned out some good BBQ but I am still doing runs with no food trying different configurations to make it better.

Now go build and enjoy........ good luck........
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Unread 09-13-2013, 05:20 PM   #11389
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Default UDS Drum Score

Scored this drum, lid and band for $15. Actually my wife made the score from a guy that came in at her work. He said the liner had been removed. When I first looked at it I was thinking that it had the liner that is so much work to remove but the texture is rough and under the edges of the ribs aren't covered very well. So the thinking is that it has been blasted and then painted. We will find out if we ever get some rain so we can get out from under this burn band.



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Unread 09-13-2013, 09:48 PM   #11390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by promad View Post
I guess a motor oil drum would be out of the question , lol ?
You would be fine using it, just do a good scrubbing with dawn dish soap and hot water, then burn it out. Have you ever seen a big smoker made out of an old oil tank? I see them all the time and know people that have made them.
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Unread 09-13-2013, 10:11 PM   #11391
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Rt that definitely looks like the dreaded red liner everyone speaks of. Gonna take a bit of elbow grease to get that off
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Unread 09-14-2013, 11:29 AM   #11392
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Default Cold rolled steel is fine

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Originally Posted by rockville9 View Post
My double barrel, offset, reverse flow smoker is near completion. I'm getting the gill ordered and cut from an industrial steel manufacturer. I don't know a whole lot about steel.

Should I get stainless (WAY, WAY, WAY) more expensive than plain hot-rolled, diamond pattern grates?

Plain or stainless?

Will this steel grating work? I'm looking to get 13 gauge steel. Is that going to be thick enough?

thank you very much in advance.
And most builders use the thicker stuff, 8 gauge I think, but it should work
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Unread 09-14-2013, 06:08 PM   #11393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HookedOnQ View Post
Rt that definitely looks like the dreaded red liner everyone speaks of. Gonna take a bit of elbow grease to get that off

I know, guess we will find out when the burn band is lifted around here.
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Unread 09-16-2013, 10:38 AM   #11394
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Most of what is recommended for expanded metal is #9 3/4 ... I use this for everything from fire baskets to drum grills. It's easy to cut with a 4" grinder and can be had in 4' X 8' sheets at a metal supplier.
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Unread 09-16-2013, 11:51 AM   #11395
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Originally Posted by Peddler View Post
Most of what is recommended for expanded metal is #9 3/4 ... I use this for everything from fire baskets to drum grills. It's easy to cut with a 4" grinder and can be had in 4' X 8' sheets at a metal supplier.

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Unread 09-16-2013, 04:41 PM   #11396
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I have read through most of the posts in this thread, thanks to all that have posted for sharing. Putting together a UDS finally and I am seeking some assistance. I sprung for a new, unlined drum in the hopes of avoiding the need to do a burn. From what you see in these pictures, do I need to do a burn or can I start building? The inside feels like bare metal.

Also, am I OK to paint over the existing paint with high temp? Just directly onto the existing paint?


I know this has been mentioned before, but I want to get it right.

Thanks in advance and apologies for the noob Q's.

Mike
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Unread 09-16-2013, 04:46 PM   #11397
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It depends on whether or not that paint will peel/flake at the temps that you will be cooking at. If it will withstand whatever temps you throw at it, then you can paint over it.

Of course, you could just do a burn in the drum and the paint will come off at the really high temps and you will clean out the inside at the same time.
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Unread 09-16-2013, 04:51 PM   #11398
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Here are some pics of the UDS I'm building. First attempt ever. Huge thanks to lavinjj for helping me acquire the drum (I got two, actually). Even was kind enough to show me his previous builds for some tips/tricks. This UDS is going to a buddy for cost of parts. I just wanted to try and build one and he needs a smoker. Win/win.

Test fit of the lid. It is off of a Charbroil grill that I got on Craigslist for $15. I had to cut off the lip on the drum and pull out the lip on the lid. PITA. Buddy wanted the domed lid, but it will be flat lids from here on out for me.


Ball-valve adjustable intake:


Caps for the other intakes. There are 3 - 3/4" pipe nipples in addition to the 3/4" ball valve:




Burning it out (and removing the paint):
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Unread 09-16-2013, 05:22 PM   #11399
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bvbull200, the build is looking good but you may want to add a support bracket to your riser pipe to keep from over loading the drum.
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Unread 09-16-2013, 06:07 PM   #11400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RT View Post
bvbull200, the build is looking good but you may want to add a support bracket to your riser pipe to keep from over loading the drum.
Thanks and a good point. I do plan on doing that, but probably not until it is painted.

Is the bracket I need obvious or will I be needing to make something work?
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