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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, Equipment and just outdoor cookin' in general, hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures... but stay on topic. And watch for that hijacking.


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Unread 06-01-2013, 02:12 AM   #10936
RustyPup
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AngryBird: I got into my Yellow Pages and looked up Sandblasting and Powdercoating. Both businesses do sandblasting, and can do the job. I just called all of the shops in my area and took the cheapest deal offered. The sandblasting shop I used quoted me $25 over the phone, blasted my drum while I waited in the parking lot, but charged me only $20 because it only took him about 10 minutes to do.

Most shops wanted to quote me their hourly rate and try to figure it out from there. I got estimates running anywhere from $40 - $75. The shop I used was a small father and son operation (with mom answering phones,) and they treated me right. I'll remember them when I need something else done.

Good luck!
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Unread 06-01-2013, 11:50 AM   #10937
Skidder
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This is my 17th or 18th UDS not sure I've lost track. My daughter in the service has another serviceman that was so so interested in one and because he was deployed I couldn't say no when he asked her if I could make one for him. Total cost.....our freedom!! So hope he enjoys it and welcome home!
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Unread 06-01-2013, 12:08 PM   #10938
jimstocks53
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I confess to having only read 50-60 of these pages but why drill three holes at the bottom when only one seems to be used/valved?
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Unread 06-01-2013, 12:12 PM   #10939
Skidder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimstocks53 View Post
I confess to having only read 50-60 of these pages but why drill three holes at the bottom when only one seems to be used/valved?
Cause there are times when you might want to get the temp up to 400/450 degrees to crisp the skin on chicken!
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Unread 06-01-2013, 08:17 PM   #10940
angrybird
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Thanks RustyPup,

I haven't picked up a Yellow Pages in years thanks to the internet. Guess I'll have to find one somewhere! :)

The guy's I've spoken with have given me hourly rates and told me it would take an hour and a half! Thanks for giving me something to shoot for (especially knowing how long it should take) when cold calling.



Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyPup View Post
AngryBird: I got into my Yellow Pages and looked up Sandblasting and Powdercoating. Both businesses do sandblasting, and can do the job. I just called all of the shops in my area and took the cheapest deal offered. The sandblasting shop I used quoted me $25 over the phone, blasted my drum while I waited in the parking lot, but charged me only $20 because it only took him about 10 minutes to do.

Most shops wanted to quote me their hourly rate and try to figure it out from there. I got estimates running anywhere from $40 - $75. The shop I used was a small father and son operation (with mom answering phones,) and they treated me right. I'll remember them when I need something else done.

Good luck!
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Unread 06-03-2013, 12:36 PM   #10941
RustyPup
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angrybird View Post
Thanks RustyPup,

I haven't picked up a Yellow Pages in years thanks to the internet. Guess I'll have to find one somewhere! :)

The guy's I've spoken with have given me hourly rates and told me it would take an hour and a half! Thanks for giving me something to shoot for (especially knowing how long it should take) when cold calling.
I had a couple of shops quote me the same way - hourly shop rate. None of those shops had any idea how long it would take, so they were kind of hesitant to give me a direct quote. I basically had to pry it out of them by telling them that I prefer to use cash and needed to know about how much to bring with me.

When I got to the yard of the blaster I went with, they were pushing a car they'd just finished out of the shop, so they had everything set up and ready to go. I told the dad what I was building out of the drum, told him that I needed the inside as clean as possible, but the outside was less important because I would be painting it. I took the drum out of the Jeep, the son carried it into the shop and started blasting away while I stood in the parking lot and chatted with the dad. In literally 10 minutes (probably less, but certainly not more) son brought the bare drum back out and put it into the Jeep for me. We chatted for a few more minutes and I left. I got home so soon my wife asked me if they had been closed or something. We both thought I'd be waiting quite a while.

Your mileage may vary, but it's worth checking out smaller local businesses. I've found that it's much easier to deal with folks one-on-one when they can make the decisions themselves and not have to run it by someone higher up the food chain than they are.

Good luck!
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Unread 06-03-2013, 03:30 PM   #10942
PoppyJ
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Got mine blasted while I waited for $25. Did not take this guy long at all to blast it out.
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Unread 06-03-2013, 08:54 PM   #10943
Just BS
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How do you put your Maverick ET-732 grill thermometer into your UDS?

I have an exhaust pipe coming up the middle of my lid and I usually just drop the probe down thru there. Problem is that there usually is a piece of meat there so I don't think I am getting accurate readings. I though abough running it between the lid and the drum but I don't want to damage the cord.
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Unread 06-03-2013, 11:28 PM   #10944
astodut
Wandering around with a bag of matchlight, looking for a match.
 
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First time poster here...I need help to choose which drum is right for UDS.

First picture is 30 gallon, butatone (paint related chemical) for $ 9
third picture is 55 gallon, from milk factory at my town. for $ 12
or buy both of them?
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Unread 06-04-2013, 02:12 AM   #10945
angrybird
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Thanks Rusty and Poppy.

I managed to get someone down to $40. But that is the lowest I can find for blasting after calling around a dozen people.

I'm now considering getting a reconditioned drum for $60. They tell me that the reconditioning process includes burning and blasting it. And they claim there there are no liners or rust inhibitors sprayed inside the drum. Do you guys know if this is the common reconditioning process? I'm actually surprised that it would come out with a bare metal interior.
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Unread 06-04-2013, 04:45 AM   #10946
BobBill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angrybird View Post
Thanks Rusty and Poppy.

I managed to get someone down to $40. But that is the lowest I can find for blasting after calling around a dozen people.

I'm now considering getting a reconditioned drum for $60. They tell me that the reconditioning process includes burning and blasting it. And they claim there there are no liners or rust inhibitors sprayed inside the drum. Do you guys know if this is the common reconditioning process? I'm actually surprised that it would come out with a bare metal interior.
One can only take them at their word, and what you see.

Bare metal is what you want. You have to compare to new cost...which is about the same, I suspect, but then you know what was in it beforehand, etc.

Outside should not matter much, unless you wish to paint etc.

I burned the inside of a new 30 gallon barrel with a propane torch (big one) to remove antirust and sprayed outside with flat black 500 temp Rustoleum.
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Unread 06-04-2013, 07:35 AM   #10947
RustyPup
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If $40 is the cheapest blasting job you can find, and a reconditioned drum is only $20 more, it might be worth it to go for the reconditioned drum. You know what your labor is worth to you, so...

I'm with BobBill, in that you can only go by what they tell you and what you see. If it looks like it's bare metal inside (or maybe a light oil) then it might just be bare metal. I would also think they'd use a rust inhibitor, but who knows? You could hit a spot inside it with a piece of sandpaper and give it a day or two to see if any rust forms on that spot only. That would tell you if there's any kind of rust inhibitor on it or not. Of course, if the inside of the drum has a light coat of rust on it, then you know they didn't coat it.

I used a weed burner on the outside of mine to burn off the paint and any crud inside it. The burner got the metal so hot from the outside, that I didn't need to try to heat it from the inside. The main reason I had it blasted after I burned it was to clean up after the weed burner, and to make sure I got the inside of the drum as clean of contaminates as possible. I too hit it with high-temp primer and paint after that.
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Unread 06-04-2013, 07:39 AM   #10948
RustyPup
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If $40 is the cheapest blasting job you can find, and a reconditioned drum is only $20 more, it might be worth it to go for the reconditioned drum. You know what your labor is worth to you, so...

I'm with BobBill, in that you can only go by what they tell you and what you see. If it looks like it's bare metal inside then it might just be bare metal. I would also think they'd use a rust inhibitor (maybe a light oil,) but who knows? You could hit a spot inside it with a piece of sandpaper and give it a day or two to see if any rust forms on that spot only. That would tell you if there's any kind of rust inhibitor on it or not. Of course, if the inside of the drum has a light coat of rust on it, then you know they didn't coat it.

I used a weed burner on the outside of mine to burn off the paint and any crud inside it. The burner got the metal so hot from the outside, that I didn't need to try to heat it from the inside. The main reason I had it blasted after I burned it was to clean up after the weed burner, and to make sure I got the inside of the drum as clean of contaminates as possible. I too hit it with high-temp primer and paint after that.
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Unread 06-04-2013, 01:29 PM   #10949
olewarthog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Just BS View Post
How do you put your Maverick ET-732 grill thermometer into your UDS?

I have an exhaust pipe coming up the middle of my lid and I usually just drop the probe down thru there. Problem is that there usually is a piece of meat there so I don't think I am getting accurate readings. I though abough running it between the lid and the drum but I don't want to damage the cord.
I drilled a hole slightly larger than the probe in the side of my drum & run the probe & cable thru it.
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Unread 06-04-2013, 02:29 PM   #10950
Heisenberger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Just BS View Post
How do you put your Maverick ET-732 grill thermometer into your UDS?

I have an exhaust pipe coming up the middle of my lid and I usually just drop the probe down thru there. Problem is that there usually is a piece of meat there so I don't think I am getting accurate readings. I though abough running it between the lid and the drum but I don't want to damage the cord.
I've tried different methods: through the exhaust, hole on side of the drum, grommets. Turns out the absolute best method for me was to take my angle grinder and drill a line about one inch long into the drum lid. This little notch on the outer rim lets you take the therm in and out so easily. No fiddling around with sticking it into a hole and removing it. It doesn't affect the exhaust at all because the hole is so small. Try it and you won't regret it. KISS
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