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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, Equipment and just outdoor cookin' in general, hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures... but stay on topic. And watch for that hijacking.


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Unread 09-04-2012, 02:00 PM   #10006
razrbakcrzy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparky66 View Post
Hmm...not sure I know what you mean. Why would I want to put a stack on it with a cap. Putting a cap on it is still closing it up. From what I've read from some of the early Pioneers in this thread, using a stack really is just for aesthetics and offers no improvement on air flow. I already have a ball valve on one of the 3/4" intakes. Honestly, I think it is just a matter of starting with way less pre-burned coals to start. Then I should be able to leave the exhaust open more. Going to try on my next cook.
Attachment 69858

My design is pretty much as simple as they get and I have not tried to reinvent the wheel here. I appreciate the feedback Razr.

Sparky

Sparky
Put the pipe in there so you have an easy way to close your drum up from the elements and to snuff the fire when your done. Secondly the stack will increase your draw and produce better flow and without stale smoke from capping the exhaust...
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Unread 09-04-2012, 06:17 PM   #10007
InTheRedZoneBBQ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olewarthog View Post
Carefully. Too much heat will warp the lid.
Speaking from experience, it sure can! Good intentions gone bad, spent more time trying to straighten out that warped lid than I did on the rest of the drum...
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Unread 09-05-2012, 07:53 PM   #10008
ibmachead
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Default Sandblasting OK?

Just got a barrel today and it has a lining. I live in a neighborhood where a full-blown burn would be frowned upon. Has anyone tried sandblasting or chemical stripping to get down to the bare metal?
Thanks in advance
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Unread 09-05-2012, 07:56 PM   #10009
ibmachead
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BTW, it's gonna take me a while to get from page 1 to 668 but it should be fun getting there from what I've read so far!
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Unread 09-05-2012, 10:51 PM   #10010
jgh1204
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Many have done the sandblasting and said it was well worth the
$$


Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2
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Unread 09-05-2012, 11:01 PM   #10011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgh1204 View Post
Many have done the sandblasting and said it was well worth the
$$


Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2

I'm slowly collecting materials to build my UDS and the drum I lucked into has that dreaded red lining. I'm just not going to mess with it and get it sandblasted, inside and out. Catch someone at a chrome and body shop on the right day and they might just do it for $30 or $40 and a rack of ribs!

Kidding aside, I've read the big hassle with the burnout is the cleanup, and a lot of times requires repetition to get rid of that liner.
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Unread 09-06-2012, 08:02 AM   #10012
moe1967
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Ok,

I'm a newbie to the UDS, but am determined to build one. I have a old weber 22.5 kettle that is rusted at the bottom. Plan on making a UDS with as much left over parts from the kettle as possible.

Found a drum company that has:

"Item: DCS55OH
“New” 55-g open-head steel drum / Removable lid / Black w/white top
Price: $56.75 each"

His website says it is 12gauge and 22.5 diameter.
Raw steel interior


Is this a reasonable price? Would my kettle top fit directly on the top or would I have to modify?

Thank in advance with any help!!!
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Unread 09-06-2012, 08:33 AM   #10013
FashionBiff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moe1967 View Post
Ok,

I'm a newbie to the UDS, but am determined to build one. I have a old weber 22.5 kettle that is rusted at the bottom. Plan on making a UDS with as much left over parts from the kettle as possible.

Found a drum company that has:

"Item: DCS55OH
“New” 55-g open-head steel drum / Removable lid / Black w/white top
Price: $56.75 each"

His website says it is 12gauge and 22.5 diameter.
Raw steel interior


Is this a reasonable price? Would my kettle top fit directly on the top or would I have to modify?

Thank in advance with any help!!!
I would say for a clean drum that is not a bad deal. I have burned out a couple and am so over ever doing that again. U-line has drums for right around 100 so I would say buy it. Just my opinion.
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Unread 09-06-2012, 10:11 AM   #10014
Johnny_Crunch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibmachead View Post
Just got a barrel today and it has a lining. I live in a neighborhood where a full-blown burn would be frowned upon. Has anyone tried sandblasting or chemical stripping to get down to the bare metal?
Thanks in advance

You can use a weed burner from the outside and it will remove the inside liner. I did it in a neighborhood with no issues.
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Unread 09-06-2012, 11:49 AM   #10015
FashionBiff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny_Crunch View Post
You can use a weed burner from the outside and it will remove the inside liner. I did it in a neighborhood with no issues.
You are correct they do work and pretty well.
I did that, and its sooo not worth the propane I would almost rather suit up and dawn the respirator, doubled up hearing protection and dive in with a grinder and wire wheel. I just have an aversion to doing it is all.
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Unread 09-06-2012, 12:31 PM   #10016
CervezayBBQ
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Some questions:

I have made my UDS with 2 grates, I was wondering since I have 2 RC thermometers should I use them for both grates?, what distance from the grates should they be installed?, where should they be; above or under the grates?.

Oh, one more thing, is a smoke stack necessary?.

Thanks in advance.
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Unread 09-06-2012, 03:39 PM   #10017
KCJerryD
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Didn't have much luck searching the thread so...
Anyone in the KC area know where I can get a drum sandblasted?
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Unread 09-06-2012, 05:11 PM   #10018
Foxfire
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moe1967 View Post
Ok,

I'm a newbie to the UDS, but am determined to build one. I have a old weber 22.5 kettle that is rusted at the bottom. Plan on making a UDS with as much left over parts from the kettle as possible.

Found a drum company that has:

"Item: DCS55OH
“New” 55-g open-head steel drum / Removable lid / Black w/white top
Price: $56.75 each"

His website says it is 12gauge and 22.5 diameter.
Raw steel interior


Is this a reasonable price? Would my kettle top fit directly on the top or would I have to modify?

Thank in advance with any help!!!
I agree the price is decent for a new, clean drum. You'd have to test your Weber lid for fit (never know if you get lucky) but most likely the top edge of the drum wall is rolled over to create a lip that makes the top of the drum slightly thicker than the 22.5 diameter of the inside walls. Some people cut off the lip and others bolt or weld a ring of thin metal inside the top of the drum and sticking above the lip maybe 1/8" or 1/4 inch for the Weber top to rest on. That may need to be hammered to get a tight fit fit when you put on the top. Make sense?
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Unread 09-06-2012, 07:33 PM   #10019
moe1967
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxfire View Post
I agree the price is decent for a new, clean drum. You'd have to test your Weber lid for fit (never know if you get lucky) but most likely the top edge of the drum wall is rolled over to create a lip that makes the top of the drum slightly thicker than the 22.5 diameter of the inside walls. Some people cut off the lip and others bolt or weld a ring of thin metal inside the top of the drum and sticking above the lip maybe 1/8" or 1/4 inch for the Weber top to rest on. That may need to be hammered to get a tight fit fit when you put on the top. Make sense?
Yep, makes sense. And I have already thought about it. If that would be the case I would cut off the lip of the bottom portion of my kettle, bolt and then seal it with high temp sealant.

Hopefully its a direct fit though
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Unread 09-06-2012, 07:47 PM   #10020
jcm2m9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KCJerryD View Post
Didn't have much luck searching the thread so...
Anyone in the KC area know where I can get a drum sandblasted?
Go here and buy a new unlined barrel for $30.

https://plus.google.com/113365974928...ut?gl=us&hl=en
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