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Old 08-27-2012, 03:25 AM   #9961
shazam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jordan85 View Post
I think I have located some free barrels in excellent shape, but I am not sure if I should use them. The barrels have contained "Water Miscible Blanket & Roller Wash." Specs can be viewed here (N-282): http://www.novapressroom.com/products.cfm#N-200 Medium Dry Series

I found another thread from here on the forums from about 6 months ago regarding this, but there doesn't seem to be anybody responding on that thread that knows definitively whether the barrel would be safe or not after a good burnout.

What do you guys think?
i'm a printer. been around that stuff for 35 yrs. burn it out. good to go. no different than any other petroleum based solvent. plus++ probably doesn't have a liner. z
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Old 08-27-2012, 12:29 PM   #9962
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I just finished my second UDS. Here is a picture of it and my home made temp controller.
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Old 08-27-2012, 12:31 PM   #9963
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I found some drums that were used for water based ink from a box manufacturer. They do have a liner in them. Would you use these drums after burning out the liner?
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Old 08-27-2012, 12:55 PM   #9964
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Very cool fenders on the pneumatic tires, JCM. Awesome build.
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Old 08-27-2012, 01:40 PM   #9965
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Very cool fenders on the pneumatic tires, JCM. Awesome build.
Thanks!

I will post a build when I get some time. The fenders were a northern tool score!
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Old 08-27-2012, 03:01 PM   #9966
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What did you do for temp control? Please explain I can't see it very well on my only computer(phone)
Thanks
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Old 08-27-2012, 03:14 PM   #9967
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I have the same question. What did you make for a temp control?
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Old 08-27-2012, 03:29 PM   #9968
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nucornhusker View Post
I found some drums that were used for water based ink from a box manufacturer. They do have a liner in them. Would you use these drums after burning out the liner?
As long as it was not red ink. Maroon would be ok, but not red
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Old 08-27-2012, 04:07 PM   #9969
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nucornhusker View Post
I found some drums that were used for water based ink from a box manufacturer. They do have a liner in them. Would you use these drums after burning out the liner?
That's what I use. I give the red liner a good sanding to remove it then burn it out. I use those Scotch pads that fit on a 4" grinder or 36 grit pads that also fit. Comes right off. You must wear eye,ear,hand and breathing protection. I can't stress that enough. Takes an hour to hour and a half to do.
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Old 08-27-2012, 04:52 PM   #9970
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I have a problem. I have now finished my first build. I have followed the basic dimensions detailed in norecore's build but am having trouble getting up to temp. I think it might be poor quality charcoal as I have read a few reviews on the brand and some people were complaining. No wonder is was on 'special'! Just wondered what else could affect poor start up temps? I have three 3/4 inlets. One with ball valve and 8 1/2 holes in the lid. The charcoal basket is on legs that are 2" tall. I have a virtually flat pizza pan on the bottom. The intakes are between 2 and 3" from the base, so should be well placed to get air to the base of the fire, without any restriction.

I lit 15 briquettes in the chimney until ashed and dumped them on top of some other unlit bricks. I the put in the grate and clamped on the lit with the aluminium strap that came with the drum.

I guess it could be the thermo but I would have thought it would be consistently wrong, rather that anything else. I guess I should test in boiling water, to eliminate accuracy.

Any ideas?

UPDATE

Temps are at 210. Just closed two caps and left the ball valve fully open. Will check in half hour.

That took over an hour with everything open, to reach that temp.

Last edited by danielfethers; 08-27-2012 at 05:02 PM.. Reason: Update
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Old 08-27-2012, 09:15 PM   #9971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgh1204 View Post
As long as it was not red ink. Maroon would be ok, but not red
It's black.
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Old 08-28-2012, 06:56 AM   #9972
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jethro608 View Post
What did you do for temp control? Please explain I can't see it very well on my only computer(phone)
Thanks
Quote:
I have the same question. What did you make for a temp control?
I built a PID temp controller. What you are seeing in the back is the fan and the union that I used to make the fan removable from the pit. When the controller is running it will keep the UDS within a few degrees of the set point.

Here are a few other pictures.

Inside the controller.



Weber lid modification



Controller Fan


First UDS
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:13 AM   #9973
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[QUOTE=jcm2m9;2192197]I built a PID temp controller. What you are seeing in the back is the fan and the union that I used to make the fan removable from the pit. When the controller is running it will keep the UDS within a few degrees of the set point.

Thanks jcm2m9! nice set up. I have been working on a design using a Honeywell controller and a RTD for supply temp and RTD for drum temp. What are you using as your control variable? I assume space/drum temp?
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:33 AM   #9974
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I am using PID controller to control drum temp with Type K thermocouple. I have a second "dumb" PID to monitor meat temp. I might be adding a second "dumb" pid to monitor relative humidity.
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:18 AM   #9975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielfethers View Post
I have a problem. I have now finished my first build. I have followed the basic dimensions detailed in norecore's build but am having trouble getting up to temp. I think it might be poor quality charcoal as I have read a few reviews on the brand and some people were complaining. No wonder is was on 'special'! Just wondered what else could affect poor start up temps? I have three 3/4 inlets. One with ball valve and 8 1/2 holes in the lid. The charcoal basket is on legs that are 2" tall. I have a virtually flat pizza pan on the bottom. The intakes are between 2 and 3" from the base, so should be well placed to get air to the base of the fire, without any restriction.

I lit 15 briquettes in the chimney until ashed and dumped them on top of some other unlit bricks. I the put in the grate and clamped on the lit with the aluminium strap that came with the drum.

I guess it could be the thermo but I would have thought it would be consistently wrong, rather that anything else. I guess I should test in boiling water, to eliminate accuracy.

Any ideas?

UPDATE

Temps are at 210. Just closed two caps and left the ball valve fully open. Will check in half hour.

That took over an hour with everything open, to reach that temp.
I wonder if you are not getting enough of a draft. What are you using for exhaust?
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