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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, Equipment and just outdoor cookin' in general, hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures... but stay on topic. And watch for that hijacking.


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Unread 06-13-2012, 08:06 AM   #9601
bass7858
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Originally Posted by olewarthog View Post
This is what I used. Found it in the auto section at Walmart.

thanks olewarthog! anybody else?
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Unread 06-13-2012, 07:47 PM   #9602
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Anyone have any problems painting their drums with high temp paint in cold temperatures/weather??? I know painting should be done in a warm environment, but I'm ready to paint and winter has just kicked in here, its averaging around 15 degrees Celcius (59f).
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Unread 06-14-2012, 06:56 AM   #9603
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As long as the temp. is 45f and rising - not falling - you should be fine.
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Unread 06-14-2012, 07:49 AM   #9604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olewarthog View Post
This is what I used. Found it in the auto section at Walmart.

You might wanna read the product warning on the back.
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Unread 06-14-2012, 08:55 AM   #9605
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Just a few friendly thoughts....

When getting a silicone gasket, be sure it is
for food service applications....

woodstove rope gasket...
that chit is fiberglass and loose fibers will flake off
and land on surfaces.....like food.....

Just some things to consider...
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Unread 06-14-2012, 12:01 PM   #9606
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N8man View Post
Just a few friendly thoughts....

When getting a silicone gasket, be sure it is
for food service applications....

woodstove rope gasket...
that chit is fiberglass and loose fibers will flake off
and land on surfaces.....like food.....

Just some things to consider...
I agree with this. I'm super paranoid with fire rope because of the fiberglass, silicone because of fumes and who knows what, galvanized coated stuff, zinc coated stuff, etc.... So I used a food grade silicone to seal up my UDS lid. I rarely go above 300+ so any of the food rated silicone should be more than sufficient.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#caulk/=hz4mcs (then click "Silicone Adhesives/Sealants" and you will find them on that page)

RTV 103 is black and good for up to 400 degrees.
RTV 106 is red and good for up to 500 degrees.

I avoided automotive grade because I've heard something about formaldehyde at certain temps. But even then the RTV103 and 106 you get more for about the same price as the automotive grade stuff and shipping for me was pretty cheap. I think I had it 1-2 days after I phoned in the order.
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Unread 06-14-2012, 01:18 PM   #9607
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidder View Post
You might wanna read the product warning on the back.
Not sure what it says on the back but the product info on the permatex website states that it is certified to NSF/ANSI Standard 51

"This Standard is applicable to the materials and finishes used in the manufacture of food equipment (e.g., beverage dispenser, cutting board, coffee machines, domestic appliances).

The Standard is also applicable to components such as tubing, sealants, gaskets, valves, and other items intended for various food equipment applications."
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Unread 06-14-2012, 03:56 PM   #9608
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Is $50 for a stainless steel 55 gallon drum a good deal? The guy says this barrel has only ever held potable water. Will there be a liner inside? I would be making a UDS with it. I currently have another UDS that I made but would like to make another one with a few changes...
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Unread 06-14-2012, 04:04 PM   #9609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuckHunter83 View Post
Is $50 for a stainless steel 55 gallon drum a good deal? The guy says this barrel has only ever held potable water. Will there be a liner inside? I would be making a UDS with it. I currently have another UDS that I made but would like to make another one with a few changes...
Get it immediately before they change their mind!
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Unread 06-14-2012, 04:23 PM   #9610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuckHunter83 View Post
Is $50 for a stainless steel 55 gallon drum a good deal? The guy says this barrel has only ever held potable water. Will there be a liner inside? I would be making a UDS with it. I currently have another UDS that I made but would like to make another one with a few changes...
Liner or not, if that really is stainless, for $50, you snatch that up right away! It's probably worth $50 in recycling, but then again, it would make one sweet UDS!
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Unread 06-14-2012, 08:43 PM   #9611
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Well I missed out on the stainless drum! I guess it wasn't meant to be. It's probably for the best because we are in the middle of moving and the last thing I need is another project...
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Unread 06-14-2012, 08:53 PM   #9612
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I used cotton rope for my lid gasket.....just glued it in and greased it up good and put heat to it. It formed well to the lid and barrel and seals things pretty good.
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Unread 06-15-2012, 01:30 AM   #9613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidder View Post
You might wanna read the product warning on the back.
We've gone over this before in this thread..... as olewarthog said... as I have said... according to permatex it is certified to NSF/ANSI Standard 51 as long as you use it as a gasket under 500F your completely safe!!!
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Unread 06-15-2012, 08:31 AM   #9614
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Newbie here to the website. I have almost read thru this entire thread and I must say it is very informative to say the least. I have a closed head drum, no liner. Purchased the Uniflame kettle from Wal Mart for the lid and grill grate (1). To my disappointment the lid doesn't fit. Not sure if I can "persuade" it to fit or not as is. I seen somewhere among the many pages of people removing the closed lid by grinding off the top edge/ring of the barrel, just cutting thru the first layer of material.
1. Does anyone have the link to that discussion? It had a pretty good diagram about it. But I can't seem to locate it.
2. If I do remove the lid using this method does it have any effects on the structural integrity of the barrel.
3. If anyone has used this type of lid did they have any luck/tips on making it fit the barrel?

Thanks to everyone for all thier invaluable input.
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Unread 06-15-2012, 10:31 AM   #9615
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JM2C but the roll crimp adds allot of structural integrity to the top of the drum.
An easy way to remove the top is to use a cold chisel and a hammer cutting around the inside like a can opener following the profile . To get the lid to fit cut the bowl from the grill about 2- 2.5" below it's li[ and bolt it into the top of the drum giving yo a perfect seal.
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