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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, Equipment and just outdoor cookin' in general, hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures... but stay on topic. And watch for that hijacking.


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Unread 03-17-2010, 09:35 PM   #5641
NASCARican
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boshizzle View Post
Thanks, brethren. I'm looking forward to my first cook on it. I have flattened out the rim on the BL grill lid and it fit much better. However, it still leaks. I don't think that will be a big problem though as there is a lot of smoke inside the UDS. In fact, I'm hoping there isn't too much smoke in it. I have 8 3/4" holes in the drum lid and just the vent on the BL lid. I will have to do some more experimenting to see whether there is too much smoke or if it's the right amount.

I thought about adding some fiberglass wood stove gasket to the lid but I read that the fiberglass may not be food safe since it cracks and glass fibers are released. Any input on that subject?

I will post some pics of the lid now that the lip is flattened out as soon as I can.
I've seen builds where people use high temp caulk on the lid, then put cookie sheet (wax paper) around the ring and squeeze the lid down on it and let it set up...it might be worth a try! :/
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Unread 03-18-2010, 01:11 PM   #5642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boshizzle View Post
Thanks, brethren. I'm looking forward to my first cook on it. I have flattened out the rim on the BL grill lid and it fit much better. However, it still leaks. I don't think that will be a big problem though as there is a lot of smoke inside the UDS. In fact, I'm hoping there isn't too much smoke in it. I have 8 3/4" holes in the drum lid and just the vent on the BL lid. I will have to do some more experimenting to see whether there is too much smoke or if it's the right amount.

I thought about adding some fiberglass wood stove gasket to the lid but I read that the fiberglass may not be food safe since it cracks and glass fibers are released. Any input on that subject?

I will post some pics of the lid now that the lip is flattened out as soon as I can.
I never gave it a second thought on mine. Of course now it is so gummed up with bbq crud that I'm sure it won't be flaking onto anything anytime soon!!!

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Unread 03-18-2010, 05:30 PM   #5643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NASCARican View Post
I've seen builds where people use high temp caulk on the lid, then put cookie sheet (wax paper) around the ring and squeeze the lid down on it and let it set up...it might be worth a try! :/
That's a good idea! The only concern I'd have is that the lid might end up fitting TOO well. ;-)

Here's something else that might work:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8645k59

1/4" thick x 1/2" wide adhesive-backed silicone foam good for 500 degrees (the adhesive is good for that temp too). Rather expensive at $24 for 15', but it may work well. Probably a bit to dense to take up more than about .01" of warpage though...

Just a thought...

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Unread 03-18-2010, 07:01 PM   #5644
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Hello all! I've been reading this thread off and on for a week and I am still only to about page 40! There is some great ideas and a wealth of information here! That being said, I am having a hard time making some deciesions for my UDS build.

I bought my reconditioned drum from Consolidated Container in Kansas City Kansas last week. I didn't really pay very close attention to it when I was picking it out because the lighting was dim and they were trying to tell me they are all the same size which is supposed to be UN regulation or something. When I got it home I noticed that the lid was a bit delapadated, nothing serious, just a few dents. I didn't really mind because I was planning on using a weber lid anyway.
The second thing that I discovered was that the diameter of my drum at the top rind was 34 1/2", which is way too wide for my lid to fit. I was going to cut the lip out of the top of the weber and fit it to the top of my drum. This morning I took the kettle part off it's legs and set it inside the drum. I don't think that's going to work because it almost fell right in as well.
Basically I think I am down to 4 options:
1. cut the lip off the drum. I believe the lid would fit without the lip
2. cut out the center of the drum lid and only leave enough material to fit on the drum. The weber lid fits securly on the bottom side of the drum lid.
3. scrap the kettle lid altogether and just use the drum lid
4. look for another drum

What do you guys think I should do??
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Unread 03-18-2010, 07:48 PM   #5645
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Another option would be to weld the Weber lid to the drum lid after you cut a hole in the lid that's the right size.
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Unread 03-18-2010, 07:49 PM   #5646
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Thanks for the suggestions on the lid gasket. I flattened out the lip on the BL grill lid and it fits pretty good now. I will try it as is before deciding to go for a gasket of some kind.
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Unread 03-19-2010, 11:01 PM   #5647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoviceBBQmovinUp View Post
New to the forum and i am biulding my first UDS this weekend. Quick rundown on my situation

My HOA and the Fire Department said "No way" to the burnout question. HOA also said i will get fined. So i want to get it sandblasted.

Called 8 places to get an idea on what i might pay.

4 places quoted me 40 bucks.
3 places quoted me 50 bucks
1 place quoted me 15 bucks!!!

This seems so low that i am almost skeptical. why is this guy so low. So, my question is to those of you who might know a little bit about sandblasting. If i do take it to this guy is there a way he can jack something up? This just seems to good to be true compared to the other quotes. i think i just need peace of mind from the Brethern
I wish I would have saw this earlier. If you live near the north side of glendale, come on over to my house and burn it out.
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Unread 03-20-2010, 12:05 AM   #5648
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Ok, I am to pg. 110 now and figured out to flip it upside down and cut out the bottom. Should I do my burn first to remove contaniments? Reason I ask is I would rather drill my holes before my burn to aid in breathing. my concern is will the lid (now on bottom) warp under the heat? It's already dented so maybe it won't matter anyway.
Another question: I know a few have been using stainless hardware but due to the cost and limited availability I am looking at other options. It looks like some folks have just been using standard grade hardware (zink plated?). I have access to black steel bolts but having problems locating black nuts and washers. Should I not worry so much about the standard grade hardware or is it gonna poison my food?? I may occasionally run this thing at 500* for pizza or Prime rib.
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Unread 03-20-2010, 03:09 AM   #5649
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mostwanted View Post
Ok, I am to pg. 110 now and figured out to flip it upside down and cut out the bottom. Should I do my burn first to remove contaniments? Reason I ask is I would rather drill my holes before my burn to aid in breathing. my concern is will the lid (now on bottom) warp under the heat? It's already dented so maybe it won't matter anyway.
Another question: I know a few have been using stainless hardware but due to the cost and limited availability I am looking at other options. It looks like some folks have just been using standard grade hardware (zink plated?). I have access to black steel bolts but having problems locating black nuts and washers. Should I not worry so much about the standard grade hardware or is it gonna poison my food?? I may occasionally run this thing at 500* for pizza or Prime rib.
Why are you flipping it over and cutting the bottom out of it? Is it an open top barrel with a lid or what? As far as the hardware your the one that has to eat the food cooked on it. It is discussed somewhere in the last 10 pages but for my safety I used stainless, it cost me less than $10 for all the hardware I needed to build mine.
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Unread 03-20-2010, 05:14 AM   #5650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJP View Post
Why are you flipping it over and cutting the bottom out of it? Is it an open top barrel with a lid or what? As far as the hardware your the one that has to eat the food cooked on it. It is discussed somewhere in the last 10 pages but for my safety I used stainless, it cost me less than $10 for all the hardware I needed to build mine.
It is an open top drum. Somewhere way back in this forum I read that some are leaving the origion tops on the drum, flipping it upside down and cutting out the origional bottom of the drum. I flipped mine upside down and checked to see how my weber lid fits and it fits perfect around the outside lip. The top of the drum was way too wide and the weber lid fell right inside the drum. Another bonus to doing it this way is that you can take the bottom out of it periodically for thorough cleaning.
I have seen several discussions related to the hardware topic (i haven't made it to the last 10 pages as I am at page 124). I will probably by stainless.
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Unread 03-20-2010, 05:28 AM   #5651
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Go to McMaster-Carr for hardware. They have everything you can imagine in SS as well as black and uncoated. They ship fast- you'll usually have it next day. Be forewarned that a guy could get LOST in their catalog!
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Unread 03-20-2010, 06:40 AM   #5652
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A propane torch will remove the "noxious" from your hardware. Its a coating. Throw them in the drum when you do your burn if you like. After my first seasoning everything was black and coated. The current trend of using BGE style intakes has been awesome for me. It bumped my available top temps, allows me to give my basket a shake if neccesary and saves me the annoyance of ugly plumbing hanging off my barrel. And the last benefit of easy clean out will not apply to you with the removable bottom but is wonderful for the rest of us.
A nice addition for your drum is to pick up some car tire valve stems- the kind that are bolted on. They are stainless steel and often in the garbage of your local tire store. This makes a 2" entry port(sturdy) for your thermometer and if you get 12" probes you can use it to check the various areas of your grill.
Get 'er done!!!
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Unread 03-20-2010, 07:28 AM   #5653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mostwanted View Post
It is an open top drum. Somewhere way back in this forum I read that some are leaving the origion tops on the drum, flipping it upside down and cutting out the origional bottom of the drum. I flipped mine upside down and checked to see how my weber lid fits and it fits perfect around the outside lip. The top of the drum was way too wide and the weber lid fell right inside the drum. Another bonus to doing it this way is that you can take the bottom out of it periodically for thorough cleaning.
I have seen several discussions related to the hardware topic (i haven't made it to the last 10 pages as I am at page 124). I will probably by stainless.
That is how I did mine and now when it needs to be cleaned or refueled I just lift the drum off of the lid (bottom) and clean it.

These latches work good for keeping the lid (bottom) on.
http://www.amazon.com/MSI-PRO-51120-...8465523&sr=8-1



Here it is finished
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Unread 03-20-2010, 08:07 AM   #5654
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Rich I like your clamps.
Do think that they could be adjusted to hold the Weber lid on tighter. Mine is a loose fit.
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Unread 03-20-2010, 08:18 AM   #5655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manicmndy View Post
Rich I like your clamps.
Do think that they could be adjusted to hold the Weber lid on tighter. Mine is a loose fit.
I don't think that would work since the kettle lid is round.

Mine is a loose fit, so I wouldn't worry about it to much. I took a pair of channel locks and bent the rim of the kettle lid out and then sat it on the drum and shaped it with a rubber hammer.

The only problem you can have with a lid is if there are huge gaps that could change your air flow but you do not need an air tight lid on a drum. Some people blame the flair ups on lid air leaks but they are really caused by the change of air flow in the drum when you take the lid off with the intakes open. If you shut the intakes down before you remove the lid you drastically improve your chances of not causing a flair up. But if you leave the lid off too long it will still flair up.

When I fire my drum up and it is smoking really heavy the smoke will roll out under the rid instead of the exhaust, but when it starts burning good and blue it doesn't have a problem.
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