• working on DNS.. links may break temporarily.
Its trash. i got a 17 by 9 expanded metal ring I'm picking up from the sheet metal shop for free 99 i gave them a free night at the hotel i work at. It will sit about 6 inches off bottom of the drum

Your looking for the basket to sit off the bottom of the drum about 3"...
 
Just got a PM from Barbarian about some missing pics on my UDSIII build. I was reorganizing my Photobucket albums and as such screwed up a lot of the links. Here is a link to the whole album "UDS Builds"...kind of a collection of pics from my first three builds. Sorry for any hassles bro's...:icon_blush:

http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x206/johnrhana/UDS%20Builds/
 
Last edited:
curious reach

JDer30 how tall is your charcoal basket frame?
I am curious about the ease of reaching in and pulling it out.

The total height of the my fire box (including stub legs) is 19" High.
The frame is 14.5 X 14.5 X 14.5. The Expanded metal is 7" wide
Thats the whole beauty of the frame is it allows me to lift the
charcoal box out of the drum smoker with no hassle. The grate
screws does not interfere either.
 
Latest mods to my UDS

Originally my air intake valve set about several inches higher than my drum and almost as high as the exhaust.
Well I paid Home Depot a visit and scored a Free scrap 24" black, 1" threaded pipe.Had the guy at HD thread the remaining end.
So far, So good!

I also applied some automobile stickers just for chits and giggles.
I was shocked to find these seem to be taking the heat pretty well!

Here is the Before and after results.
I also added a $17.00, 55 gallon drum dolly from Northern Tools

Before:
JD_UDS_chiminey.jpg


After:
uds_update1.jpg
 
I've had a hell of an evening, I just burnt my "aseptic pineapple juice" drum (by way of Kenya!) for the first time. The burn went about as well as I'd expected, it was a pain to get the fire lit due to recent rains and the fact I haven't cut air vents yet, but half a bottle of lighter fluid made things manageable.

I think all in all I spent 7 hours tending the fire, refueling it, drinking beer and generally enjoying myself. I was very pleased to see what I guess to be about 1/3 the liner start to shrivel up and flake away in patches. I plan on burning the drum a few more times to see how much of that liner I can knock out, I'm not so fond of climbing in there with an angle grinder to chase out stubborn remnants.

Funny thing about my drum, seems my liner was white and seemed almost paint like even though I primarily see people discuss a hard epoxy liner that's sort of tan. Anybody encountered a white liner before?
 
The burn went about as well as I'd expected, it was a pain to get the fire lit due to recent rains and the fact I haven't cut air vents yet, but half a bottle of lighter fluid made things manageable.


You need the air vents cut first. More air equals hotter fire.
 
After looking at allot of picture of different setups I gather that there is no right and wrong way really to build your UDS. With that said I just have a couple question, first of all the tubes with the nipple bolts at the bottom. Is that for air that can be added or removed as need. The valves with levers do they do the same purpose? How many holes should I start with in the lid? or would it be better to use a lid from a grill with a damper like round plate.
 
After looking at allot of picture of different setups I gather that there is no right and wrong way really to build your UDS. With that said I just have a couple question, first of all the tubes with the nipple bolts at the bottom. Is that for air that can be added or removed as need. The valves with levers do they do the same purpose? How many holes should I start with in the lid? or would it be better to use a lid from a grill with a damper like round plate.

No right or wrong way but some work better than others. I like 3-3/4" pipe nipples. 2 with caps, 1 with ball valve. The bottom holes are air intake. First thing to remember is that the drum lid sealing and controlling the air intake is what makes them work so well. You can just make 3 1" holes and use sheet magnets to cover the holes to adjust air as some have done. The flat lids I use have 8 1/2" evenly spaced holes. The Weder type lids do give a hot spot but allow room for a second rack that is a real squeeze with a flat lid. I have a feeling you have not read the entire UDS thread. lot's of trial and error can be avoided if you read it.
 
I guess I don't understand how a ball valve works I thought it had to have pressure for it to open and close....

you said you like 3-3/4" pipe nipples. 2 with caps, so there's really no point to the other 2 holes?

also is there allot of maintenance required as fasr as keeping the heat at a stable level...
Do you have to be watching it the whole cook or can do other stuff close by?
 
I guess I don't understand how a ball valve works I thought it had to have pressure for it to open and close....

you said you like 3-3/4" pipe nipples. 2 with caps, so there's really no point to the other 2 holes?

also is there allot of maintenance required as fasr as keeping the heat at a stable level...
Do you have to be watching it the whole cook or can do other stuff close by?

My first cook I got it up to temp and it went unattended for 18 hours +.
I use only three holes covered with flexible magnets with the idea I would install a ball valve later. Never saw the need. My drum cost me $40 CND(mostly for the SS hardware and paint)

drumdone4.jpg
 
Chavo, start at page one and read for a few days. It answers all your questions, and then some. READ !!!!
 
I guess I don't understand how a ball valve works I thought it had to have pressure for it to open and close....

you said you like 3-3/4" pipe nipples. 2 with caps, so there's really no point to the other 2 holes?

also is there allot of maintenance required as fasr as keeping the heat at a stable level...
Do you have to be watching it the whole cook or can do other stuff close by?

This thread has answers to all your questions, I'd suggest starting at the beginning and taking notes. You'll be glad you did.
 
Back
Top