promad
Knows what a fatty is.
I guess a motor oil drum would be out of the question , lol ?
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Ugly Drum Smoker
- Thread starter jgh1204
- Start date
HAndyman
Knows what a fatty is.
Some would, Some would'nt
I would, but that's just me. read through the thread, others have used them.
I would, but that's just me. read through the thread, others have used them.
funugy
Take a breath!
If you can't find anything else, use dish soap and HOT water to wash and clean then high heat burn. I'd think you'd be OK, but that is your decision.
I tried to get a barrel from the local refinery, but they didn't have any. Luckily I found a "food grade" barrel at a recycling plant. Who knows what was in it after the original use, so I did the clean, burn, then clean again thing.
Smokinwright
Knows what a fatty is.
If anyone in Iowa or eastern Nebraska is looking for drums, there is someone around here selling metal drums for 10 bucks a piece.
T
texyank52
Guest
Holding low temps
After reading through this thread for the last month or so I've read numerous times about builds not being able to maintain low temps. Has anyone been successful in getting their UDS to consistently maintain lower temps, ie: 200 to 225? If this is possible, what do attribute it to? What do you feel you did to the build to get the low temps to stay steady. I'm not a big fan of fast bbq'ing so if this isn't possible with a UDS I'd like to know before I piece one together.
Jim
After reading through this thread for the last month or so I've read numerous times about builds not being able to maintain low temps. Has anyone been successful in getting their UDS to consistently maintain lower temps, ie: 200 to 225? If this is possible, what do attribute it to? What do you feel you did to the build to get the low temps to stay steady. I'm not a big fan of fast bbq'ing so if this isn't possible with a UDS I'd like to know before I piece one together.
Jim
Hawg Father of Seoul
is Blowin Smoke!
To do lower temps, do a smaller diameter fire basket. Like 13 inch or even smaller.
tmhdgpth
MemberGot rid of the matchlight.
I put a 6-8" diameter clay flower pot upside down in the center of the fire basket and put the charcoal/hickory around it 4" deep in a ring around it - also place a brick alongside the pot to make the ring discontinuous. leave a space for lit coals between the brick and one end of the charcoal ring. I put 7-8 lit coals in that space. Using the ball valve I can hold 130 degrees F all day for smoking sausage/salmon, etc. Good luck!
RT
Full Fledged Farker
Jim, I have been able to hold 220-230 without any problems, this has been in the last 8 cooks. This was my first UDS build so there is not a lot of history with it yet. Being that there is not a lot of history I can tell you how mine is run, most of the time the ball valve is open (3/4" valve w/ 1/2" I.D.), there are 3 other inlets all run with caps that have 3/8" holes drilled in them. What I have seen so far is running with air coming in all 4 inlets the burn on the charcoal is a lot more even in the basket.
Now from what I have seen on here (and I have read this mega thread) there is a lot of ways to build the UDS and this is what it working for me so far.
All the cooks so far have turned out some good BBQ but I am still doing runs with no food trying different configurations to make it better.
Now go build and enjoy........ good luck........
RT
Full Fledged Farker
UDS Drum Score
Scored this drum, lid and band for $15. Actually my wife made the score from a guy that came in at her work. He said the liner had been removed. When I first looked at it I was thinking that it had the liner that is so much work to remove but the texture is rough and under the edges of the ribs aren't covered very well. So the thinking is that it has been blasted and then painted. We will find out if we ever get some rain so we can get out from under this burn band.
Scored this drum, lid and band for $15. Actually my wife made the score from a guy that came in at her work. He said the liner had been removed. When I first looked at it I was thinking that it had the liner that is so much work to remove but the texture is rough and under the edges of the ribs aren't covered very well. So the thinking is that it has been blasted and then painted. We will find out if we ever get some rain so we can get out from under this burn band.
blackdog043
is one Smokin' Farker
You would be fine using it, just do a good scrubbing with dawn dish soap and hot water, then burn it out. Have you ever seen a big smoker made out of an old oil tank? I see them all the time and know people that have made them.
HookedOnQ
is one Smokin' Farker
Rt that definitely looks like the dreaded red liner everyone speaks of. Gonna take a bit of elbow grease to get that off
HAndyman
Knows what a fatty is.
Cold rolled steel is fine
And most builders use the thicker stuff, 8 gauge I think, but it should work
And most builders use the thicker stuff, 8 gauge I think, but it should work
RT
Full Fledged Farker
Peddler
Knows what a fatty is.
Most of what is recommended for expanded metal is #9 3/4 ... I use this for everything from fire baskets to drum grills. It's easy to cut with a 4" grinder and can be had in 4' X 8' sheets at a metal supplier.
RT
Full Fledged Farker
DDM4V1
Found some matches.
I have read through most of the posts in this thread, thanks to all that have posted for sharing. Putting together a UDS finally and I am seeking some assistance. I sprung for a new, unlined drum in the hopes of avoiding the need to do a burn. From what you see in these pictures, do I need to do a burn or can I start building? The inside feels like bare metal.
Also, am I OK to paint over the existing paint with high temp? Just directly onto the existing paint?
I know this has been mentioned before, but I want to get it right.
Thanks in advance and apologies for the noob Q's.
Mike
Also, am I OK to paint over the existing paint with high temp? Just directly onto the existing paint?
I know this has been mentioned before, but I want to get it right.
Thanks in advance and apologies for the noob Q's.
Mike
bvbull200
Take a breath!
It depends on whether or not that paint will peel/flake at the temps that you will be cooking at. If it will withstand whatever temps you throw at it, then you can paint over it.
Of course, you could just do a burn in the drum and the paint will come off at the really high temps and you will clean out the inside at the same time.
Of course, you could just do a burn in the drum and the paint will come off at the really high temps and you will clean out the inside at the same time.
bvbull200
Take a breath!
Here are some pics of the UDS I'm building. First attempt ever. Huge thanks to lavinjj for helping me acquire the drum (I got two, actually). Even was kind enough to show me his previous builds for some tips/tricks. This UDS is going to a buddy for cost of parts. I just wanted to try and build one and he needs a smoker. Win/win.
Test fit of the lid. It is off of a Charbroil grill that I got on Craigslist for $15. I had to cut off the lip on the drum and pull out the lip on the lid. PITA. Buddy wanted the domed lid, but it will be flat lids from here on out for me.
Ball-valve adjustable intake:
Caps for the other intakes. There are 3 - 3/4" pipe nipples in addition to the 3/4" ball valve:
Burning it out (and removing the paint):
Test fit of the lid. It is off of a Charbroil grill that I got on Craigslist for $15. I had to cut off the lip on the drum and pull out the lip on the lid. PITA. Buddy wanted the domed lid, but it will be flat lids from here on out for me.
Ball-valve adjustable intake:
Caps for the other intakes. There are 3 - 3/4" pipe nipples in addition to the 3/4" ball valve:
Burning it out (and removing the paint):
RT
Full Fledged Farker
bvbull200, the build is looking good but you may want to add a support bracket to your riser pipe to keep from over loading the drum.
