IrregularPulse
Well-known member
What'd you use for you stacks? I really like the look of those.
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Ugly Drum Smoker
- Thread starter jgh1204
- Start date
Bubblehead
Knows what a fatty is.
They are just some chrome velocity stacks, I've used them on all my drums and like the look and functionality. You can find them on eBay for ten bucks or so.
Bubblehead
Knows what a fatty is.
I've found that Weber lids fit quite nicely on the bottom of most drums. You could always flip it over and chisel out the bottom & make it the top. If you want a flat lid, I've seen replacement lids out there like this...
http://www.moultriefeeders.com/productdetail.aspx?id=8546
Guamaque
Knows what a fatty is.
That is some nice work on that drum !!
kcarz
Found some matches.
Great job. Did you use a paint gun or rattle can to paint it? I am working on my first UDS now.Just finished up my latest drum. Running a Guru on this one because it's WINDY as hell and I don't want to spend my days chasing temps.
M
Mossberg
Guest
Dam thats a nice background distraction. So in the rare case a cook doesnt turn out too well you always have that sexy DOTW to talk about.
Nice lookin smoker too.
kcarz
Found some matches.
I'm building my first UDS and made my charcoal basket. It stands 15 inches high. I am using an old weber lid and 2 cooking grates. With the 15 inch basket that only leaves about 8 1/2 inches to my first grate. I know I don't need to fill the basket full of charcoal but is that too tall of a basket? It is not a problem to cut it down if needed.
B
Bacon1632
Guest
Love my new Cubs UDS build by GaryK1398! I will get some pics up when I get the logos attached. Can't wait to try it out. And the weather should be perfect this weekend! He used engine paint on the entire drum and it turned out excellent!
Sterling
Knows what a fatty is.
KCARS, you don't need to go through the trouble of cutting down your basket unless you want to. You're right: Just don't fill it to the top, maybe only half way, and you'll be fine using both grills. If you need to do something huge that's going to take 12-20 hours, fill the basket and only use the top grate.
Lots of options with a large basket.
The smoker I leave at work has a basket about that tall and it gets used to feed ribs to my shop staff about once a month.
Sterling
Larry Livingston
Well-known member
I have been reading all your msg and I finally am convinced to try your barrel smoker. I was able to purchase one ready made off the internet. but when I got it they had cut a large hole at the bottom side of the barrel and put a door with hinges on it. My question is: Has it been ruined by this door? Should I have this opening welded up? I need all your help--Larry
kcarz
Found some matches.
Thanks Sterling. I knew someone had the info I needed. Having a blast building it. Can't wait to start cooking.
N8man
Babbling Farker
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If bad came to worst, and you suspect that the door is allowing unwanted oxygen to fuel your fire, you can always line the edges of that door with aluminum foil, gasket-like, to help plug any air leaks that may occur...
G
Ground Pounder
Guest
Picked up my freebie drum from the maintenance guys today, but I'm not too sure about this one.
It's a Mobil Grease, XHP 222 drum. We use this stuff to grease up forktrucks and manipulators in a higher-heat environment.
The drum is unlined, and I'm wondering if even a blazing-hot burnout is going to be enough to get rid of all of the residuals, considering this stuff penetrates and holds pretty darn good.
Of course, the drum says not to reuse, but I believe all petroleum-based products have that warning on the sticker. Maybe I should call a local refurb shop and see if they use these types for refurb? Might give me some indication on whether it'll be able to be cleaned out or not.
It's a Mobil Grease, XHP 222 drum. We use this stuff to grease up forktrucks and manipulators in a higher-heat environment.
The drum is unlined, and I'm wondering if even a blazing-hot burnout is going to be enough to get rid of all of the residuals, considering this stuff penetrates and holds pretty darn good.
Of course, the drum says not to reuse, but I believe all petroleum-based products have that warning on the sticker. Maybe I should call a local refurb shop and see if they use these types for refurb? Might give me some indication on whether it'll be able to be cleaned out or not.
garyk1398
Babbling Farker
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Ground pounder, If ya got for free, it can't hurt to burn that thing out with a blazin' hot fire and see what the inside is like afterwards. Just guessing but... with the high heat plus the petro-based stuff should equal a complete removal and clean drum. Hope it works for ya!
1FUNVET
Babbling Farker
Burn baby burn :thumb: You should be fine like gary said. Enjoy the build and make sure ya have plenty og beer on hand for the job :becky:
G
Ground Pounder
Guest
Good enough for me... wienie roast at my house tomorrow night!
smokindave74
Knows what a fatty is.
Here's an idea to run past the Brethren
I have an idea to build a second UDS. I have an open top drum with a bolt ring. As noted in several other posts, the Weber Kettle and Big Lot's lids do not fit precisely on an open top barrel without some metal bending, hammering, etc. However, they (both styles of lids) do fit nicely on a closed top drum on either end. (For those of you who don't know what I am talking about......the top and bottom of most closed end drums just have a crimped or welded joint that is slightly smaller in diameter than an open top lip.
My idea is to use the open flat-top as the actual bottom of the drum.....essentially leaving an open cylinder for the actual drum. Both ends would be removed during during construction.
My idea is to use a small bead of rtv silicone in the flat-top lid groove to seal the drum when I set the two pieces together.
If I let it cure before assembly, my guess is that I can remove the whole drum from the bottom lid for cleaning/removing the ash.
Any opinions........???
My only thought is that the RTV might actually glue itself together, and I won't easily be able to get the drum separated from the lid as easily as I imagine. I guess I would just have a regular drum then.....not an "easy-clean" cylinder.
Maybe I don't need the RTV, if I just put the bolt ring back down and tighten it? The original lid had a seal in it, but it was a foam/rubber material, and I already burned that out for fear of nasty off-gases from it.
Just an idea.....anyone done this????
Smokindave
I have an idea to build a second UDS. I have an open top drum with a bolt ring. As noted in several other posts, the Weber Kettle and Big Lot's lids do not fit precisely on an open top barrel without some metal bending, hammering, etc. However, they (both styles of lids) do fit nicely on a closed top drum on either end. (For those of you who don't know what I am talking about......the top and bottom of most closed end drums just have a crimped or welded joint that is slightly smaller in diameter than an open top lip.
My idea is to use the open flat-top as the actual bottom of the drum.....essentially leaving an open cylinder for the actual drum. Both ends would be removed during during construction.
My idea is to use a small bead of rtv silicone in the flat-top lid groove to seal the drum when I set the two pieces together.
If I let it cure before assembly, my guess is that I can remove the whole drum from the bottom lid for cleaning/removing the ash.
Any opinions........???
My only thought is that the RTV might actually glue itself together, and I won't easily be able to get the drum separated from the lid as easily as I imagine. I guess I would just have a regular drum then.....not an "easy-clean" cylinder.
Maybe I don't need the RTV, if I just put the bolt ring back down and tighten it? The original lid had a seal in it, but it was a foam/rubber material, and I already burned that out for fear of nasty off-gases from it.
Just an idea.....anyone done this????
Smokindave
Bubblehead
Knows what a fatty is.
Rattle can with hammered finish.
T
thetazzbot
Guest
ok. my uds info from dallas week of 04/08/2011
16 " pizza pan @ walmart $3.00
lined food barrel $15 @ craigslist. look for ad by dustin in plano
21.5" grates 10.99 ea @ walmart
18.5 " weber charcoal grate (actual size is 13.5") 10.99 @ lowes
metal strip for air control $6 for 6 ft @ lowes
misc bolts nuts washers $12
two temp gauges $9.99 @ academy
so far maybe $60 invested. for only $839 more i could have a big green egg lol
[edit]gas for driving around for all this stuff: $60[/edit]
getting that liner out... priceless.
16 " pizza pan @ walmart $3.00
lined food barrel $15 @ craigslist. look for ad by dustin in plano
21.5" grates 10.99 ea @ walmart
18.5 " weber charcoal grate (actual size is 13.5") 10.99 @ lowes
metal strip for air control $6 for 6 ft @ lowes
misc bolts nuts washers $12
two temp gauges $9.99 @ academy
so far maybe $60 invested. for only $839 more i could have a big green egg lol
[edit]gas for driving around for all this stuff: $60[/edit]
getting that liner out... priceless.
Sterling
Knows what a fatty is.
Dave, a lot of folks have done this. I don't think the caulk is going to give you a whole lot better seal than just holding the lid on the bottom with the bolted ring, tightened up snugly. So I wouldn't worry about caulking the lid unless you notice temperature control problems during your first few cooks.
Build it, cook with it, and make adjustments from there.
Remember, K.I.S.S. Don't over think this.
Sterling
