Double Barrel Ugly Drum Smoker! Build Pics

Well the heat has to come out some where. I don't think 5in is that much concidering all the cook space. Does the top shelf cook faster? I have never tried to cook up there and I loose that space.
I really think I'm gonna try that after I get my welder. I don't need one that big. But.... yea I do. How big of opening is that in your fire box? How thick is your rev. Flow plate? & how high off bottom for both?
I've got like 12 barrels on the way (free) & I was told I could...I mean I told her I was buying a hobart h 140 so I got ????..???

Man it don't take long to bury a thread pretty deep .
Would you mind loading a few more pics.
Like how you get air in. And your tunning . I'm just fasinated with this build.

How much fuel do you go thru ?

So a while back when I first saw Bronc76's design, I thought it was fantastic. I'm sitting around home on medical leave without much to do, so I gleaned as much info as I could find in this thread, took some measurements of my own 55 gallon drum awaiting conversion into a UDS, did a little math with the various online smoker spreadsheets, then plugged it all into Google's free CAD software package called SketchUp, and here's what I came up with:



I took a few liberties with Bronc's original design, but did my best to come up with an actual usable model that I could someday fabricate from, or at least use as a starting point. I checked all airflow measurements against multiple calculators online so I imagine this should be a workable design. (Feel free to speak up if you notice anything amiss!)

Let's start with the firebox. I used Bronc's original dimensions, 18" x 18" x 20".



The calculators suggest 19.44 sq in of intake vents to feed the fire. I went with four 2" x 3" openings, or a max of 24 sq. in. if wide open.



In the shot below, I removed the firebox door so it was easier to see the feed from firebox to cooking chamber. Calculators suggest 51.84 sq. in. I went with a 5" x 10.5" opening, or 52.5 sq. in. There's another just like it on the opposite side for the left hand drum.



Looking into the right drum through the firebox opening:



More on the way...

Here's the inside of one of the cooking chambers. The two racks pullout and have stoppers. To lift them out completely for cleaning, you'd have to first pull up on the right handle and side it out from under the stopper.





In the next couple of shots, I removed the wall of the right hand drum to better see the interior. Bronc used a reverse flow design, so hopefully you can see all the layers. On the bottom is the chamber leading heat and smoke from the firebox. The baffle plate simply stops short of the end of the drum to create the reverse flow opening. On the model, this is a 21.25" x 2.5" opening, or 53.125 sq. inches -- that's just slightly larger than the 52.5 sq. in. opening feeding from the firebox, so just about perfect. I imagine the reverse flow plate being removable for cleaning, so it's just resting on rails on the front and rear walls of the drum, but perhaps in the real world that won't be a tight enough fit.



Below is a reverse shot of the same for a better view. Above the reverse flow plate is another level of rails that support free-sliding tuning plates. I show them here with thumbholes for sliding and adjusting, if needed. These are each 9" across.



Closeup of the tuning plates:



Cont...

That looks great!!! Cant wait to see the finished unit. Good Luck!!!

Bronc said he used a 4" diameter chimney, so I did the same on the model. The calculators want it to be 25.8" long but Bronc mentioned he wished they were taller. I'm not sure how tall his are on the real deal, but I went with an even 36" -- should be more than enough draft for the rest of the flow design. I intend to put some regular turn dampers on each stack so you can shut off one tank completely if you like. I also added a small shelf which I imagine would be held in place by rebar at just the right height for digital thermometer bases.



Bronc said he put a 1" oven gasket around the door openings so you can see that as the white band around the cook chamber openings. I didn't model any kind of latch on the cooking chamber doors but I'm sure they'd be helpful for an airtight closure. I didn't drop my chimney in as far as Bronc did, but probably couldn't hurt to for maximum flow over the cooking grates. I also worked in a 2" drainpipe and ball valve on the far end of each cooking chamber for easier cleaning and draining.



Can't forget the most important feature!



Huge thanks to Bronc76 for his concept! I'm going to get on building myself one of these bad boys as soon as I can!



Google SketchUp CAD software: http://sketchup.google.com/download/

Measurement Summary

Firebox: 18" x 18" x 20"
FB Air Intake: Four 2" x 3" rectangles = 24 sq. in.
FB to Cook Chamber opening: 5" x 10.5" = 52.5 sq. in.
Reverse Flow baffle opening: 21.25" x 2.5 = 53.125 sq. in.
Chimney: 4" diameter, 36" tall (about 5" inside cooker)
Total Length: 7 feet, 3 5/8"
Height to Cooking Grate: 2 feet, 7 5/8"
Top of Chimney: 6 feet, 5 5/8"

bustem55 said:

That looks great!!! Cant wait to see the finished unit. Good Luck!!!

Click to expand...

Thanks Bustem! :grin:

The mock up and the real deal look amazing!
Where does one find those exhaust dampers?
Is there a holy grail of smoker parts that I don't know a out.
Again this is fantastic!

Daggs said:

The mock up and the real deal look amazing!
Where does one find those exhaust dampers?
Is there a holy grail of smoker parts that I don't know a out.
Again this is fantastic!

Click to expand...

The stack dampers are pretty easy to make if you have a decent way to cut sheet metal. The main part is a circle about 1/4" wider in diameter than the stack pipe itself, with a little extra tab that sticks out so you can tac weld a rod to it which runs down the stack and passes through some guides. Turn the handle and the damper swings open or shut.

what are tuning plates for?

davefan360 said:

what are tuning plates for?

Click to expand...

They're usually used in regular cross-flow smokers to spread out the heat more efficiently or help prevent hot spots. Reverse-flow design is supposed to do most of that work, but I think Bronc put them in because of the unusual two-sided design as an extra measure just in case.

Looks Like I need to grab a couple more drums from work. My neighbor wants a pit, I think I'll give him mine and make one of these for myself!

Outstanding Build, Outstanding Drawings!

Awesome thread!

Cheers!

Bill

That is insane. Nice build