Whats good to protect a deck from heat.

Theboz1419

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Since, we had a little, but very dangerous burn through on our deck from a UDS, not being properly closed off at a end of a smoke(not myself).

I was looking at getting .5 to 5/8 Cement board and then tiling it with a outdoor tile and then putting the UDS on top while still using fire bricks to keep an air gap between the UDS and the tile.

Would this work or is there a better alternative besides moving the UDS off the Deck.
 
That would work, and sounds like a lot of work too.
How about using an oil drip pan from the auto parts store, on top of bricks, below your fire bricks below your UDS?

Top to bottom:
UDS lid
UDS
fire bricks (air gap)
oil drip pan
fire bricks (air gap)
deck

?
 
The tile might look nice at the outset, but they wouldn't last if adhered to cement board in the way you describe.

Just raise it up a few inches on some bricks or other non combustible material. Enough so air can flow freely underneath it.

Chris
 
Here's a list of fireplace hearth material R values. Just so you have an idea of what the insulating values are. Cement board is on there as well as tile.
 
I use a leftover piece of tile cement board just to keep under my chimney starter to keep from scorching my driveway when I use it. I've not tried it on wood decking before, but I'd think it would suffice. The stuff comes in a 3'x5' sheet, so you could cut it in half and double it up too, just to be safe.

Mine's lasted for 4 years now through rain and all and is still holding up OK.


I don't disagree with the metal oil drip pan idea either, though as suggested by otterpop. It'll definitely last longer.

1143020Galvanized20Drip20Tray.jpg
http://www.blitzusa.com/products/oil/Oil Drains and Pans/podpgdt.htm

If I recall, you're in a rental home, right? You roommate with "The Drunk"? I think I'd use one of these simple solutions instead of tiling somehing up that would be cracked when trying to move around.
 
I am a Tile Contractor ah finally a tile question :p

The tile with the cement board would work fine but the most important is the air space. If you can do this the tile isn't necessary

UDS / airspace / shield of some kind / airspace / deck

The airspaces only need to be a couple of inches.
The shield could even be a drum lid
 
I am a Tile Contractor ah finally a tile question :p

The tile with the cement board would work fine but the most important is the air space. If you can do this the tile isn't necessary

UDS / airspace / shield of some kind / airspace / deck

The airspaces only need to be a couple of inches.
The shield could even be a drum lid


Yeah, I was planning on still using the fire bricks(stove bricks) under the UDS for air movement, and then the tile and grout, cement board.

I had the UDS on the fire brick, just like these

http://www.hardwareandtools.com/Vogelzang-FB-1-Fire-Brick-7011752.html

and needless to say we now have a hole in the back deck.

I know with proper use of the UDS, i would not have a problem with just continuing to use the fire bricks but to have a sense of safety if my roommate decides to try and use it, even after he has been banned from bbq'ing again, lol. I figured i would add a another safety barrier and something that will cover up the new wood that wil be replacing the burned wood.
 
Patio tiles/stones 16" x 16" or one 30" x 30" stone from Lowes or HD, fire brick above that (I have a metal dolly for my UDS but I have a stone patio. I use an extra stone for my chimney
 
If you get a piece of cement board and tile over it, you should have fire protection and good looks. Perhaps some molding around the perimeter too.

Be sure the cement board is exterior rated. I'd go the 1/2" thickness to boot.
 
PS: From Wikipedia

Cement board

Water resistance


The category of construction material known as cement board includes both water resistant and waterproof board. Each has its own best use.

Typically water resistant cement board is composed of a treated gypsum core with a non organic fiber reinforced covering, either on one or both faces. This type of board requires fastidious sealing of all cut edges and penetrations to maintain the manufacturer's warranty for wet area installations. Gypsum core "cement" board panels are ideal for moist but not truly wet installations of tile and/or stone walls.

There is a class of cement board strictly constructed of a Portland cement based core with glass fiber matt reinforcing at both faces. This type board is truly waterproof. These panels can be immersed in water without any degradation (excluding freeze thaw cycles). These panels do not require the sealing of edges and penetrations to maintain their structural integrity. These Portland cement based products are smaller in size compared with the gypsum core based products. Typically they range in size from 30" x 48" to 36" x 60". They are, as one would expect, considerably heavier than the gypsum core type panels.

Portland cement based panels are ideal for truly wet locations like shower surrounds and for locations where a Portland cement based thin-set material is used for bonding tile and stone surfaces to a substrate. They are also ideal for floor tile and stone installations over a structural subfloor.
 
PS: From Wikipedia

Cement board

Water resistance


The category of construction material known as cement board includes both water resistant and waterproof board. Each has its own best use.

Typically water resistant cement board is composed of a treated gypsum core with a non organic fiber reinforced covering, either on one or both faces. This type of board requires fastidious sealing of all cut edges and penetrations to maintain the manufacturer's warranty for wet area installations. Gypsum core "cement" board panels are ideal for moist but not truly wet installations of tile and/or stone walls.

There is a class of cement board strictly constructed of a Portland cement based core with glass fiber matt reinforcing at both faces. This type board is truly waterproof. These panels can be immersed in water without any degradation (excluding freeze thaw cycles). These panels do not require the sealing of edges and penetrations to maintain their structural integrity. These Portland cement based products are smaller in size compared with the gypsum core based products. Typically they range in size from 30" x 48" to 36" x 60". They are, as one would expect, considerably heavier than the gypsum core type panels.

Portland cement based panels are ideal for truly wet locations like shower surrounds and for locations where a Portland cement based thin-set material is used for bonding tile and stone surfaces to a substrate. They are also ideal for floor tile and stone installations over a structural subfloor.

Densglass is what you're referring to. Good stuff.
http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=4674

Air will be your best friend, because it will instantly dissipate the heat. Instead of lifting it on fire bricks, I wonder if lifting it up on rubber wheel castor's would be better. My thinking is that the bricks will just absorb the heat from the drum and eventually heat up to the same temp as the drum and then transmit that heat to the deck. But, if you bolt on some big wheels that you get at harbor freight, they won't hold the heat like the bricks and will radiate off the heat quicker. You should be able to get 4" high wheel. That should work well. But the higher the better.

I use two of these fixed wheels, and then a 3/4" bolt for the third leg (so it can't move without being lifted, but it is a little wobbly)
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-polyurethane-rigid-caster-96407.html
image_3563.jpg


Here is a 5" swivel, just find a way to keep it from moving on you.:
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-inch-cast-iron-molded-rubber-swivel-caster-38711.html

With wheels like that, I would feel safe with a grill mat under it... but of course, I have no clue about how much extra protection you need from a drunk roommate.
 
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